IanB

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uppity bumpity

bump price drop on the brakes down to $400

Sorry all, items are located in Brisbane. v8rzr The rotors are near new. I would like $500 for the callipers rotors and pads. adgey Im chasing 1500 for the turbos at this time

Hi All I have a set of Garrett R34 N1 (2860R -7) turbos and a set of R32 GTR front brakes lieing around at home taking up space and need them gone. Turbos are used, saw about 30 000 k of driving plus the odd track day, are in good condition and never saw more then 16psi boost. Minimal to no shaft play. Were a good turbo, replaced them with the newer version of themselfs. Brakes are used, have DBA 4000 slotted rotors and bendix ultimate pads. Saw a single track day plus a small amount of driving, have been replaced by a set of 33 GTR brembos. Im unsure what they are worth so make me an offer! I am willing to ship, but their fairly heavy items so it might be a bit exy. Regards, Ian

Ive never had problems getting parts from nissan for my 32R, i just ring them and order the part...

I have one and im northside, however its in my car which is at a workshop in Yalta at the moment. If your willing to dive me over there we can fetch it and bring it back, however you can only use it while im there, im not willing to loan it out. Also, anything you do, and any damage you cause while doing it, is entirely on you. I'm not going to touch your tune, and if you dont know what your doing, or if you dont have a wideband O2, id recommend against tinkering. Regards Ian

Possibly intrested in front bar and nismo strut brace, in brisbane can drive up if need be. PM me pics please.

pm sent

Still got the blue cam gears?

I have a set of R34 N1 (-7) turbos with aprox 35xxx km's on them if youd like to buy them. PM me.

if I was going to buy another 32R id check: Engine Mounts Diff Bushs Gearbox 4th syncros @ speed (if you can) Coilpack condition (splits, cracks etc) compression oil preassure Tie rod ends and ball joints interior condition paint on plenum dash bubble brake rotor condition reinforcement bar condition / if it looks like its been replaced sills tailshaft center bearing suspension condition any obvious signs of de-modification particularly the bush's and rubbers will give you a good idea of if the car has been maintained or not. Im no expert but if I was buying one, having owned one, thats what id check.

hmm, im starting to get the feeling that the problem is less my car and more my timing gun...

Hey fellas Looked high and low for a topic on using a timing light on a skyline, and I cant find one, so I have started this one. (Knowing my luck someone will find one and link it here ) I have hooked the timing light up to the loop coming out of the rear of the loom and then back into it AND on the thick white wire going into coil 1 and they both have the same result of my cars timing being far to the right (passanger side) of the white notches on the harmonic balancer (see pictures) The only problem is, if I clip the timing lights sensor onto another part of the loom, it changes position. So where do I clip it to? Im pretty sure I'm right, but I'd like to be certain. Regards Ian

Hm ok Problems are many and varied Cat was blocked - it was causing the immediate problem of no power. This was sorted and the car made 342 hp on the dyno however the graph was flat and then spiked hard at the end. The exhaust cam is one tooth out which probably is what caused the last turbos to die and the cat to collapse. Unfortunately for whatever reason the bolt holding in the harmonic balancer has a stripped thread (it and a gates performance timing belt kit were put on by a workshop under 7000 k's ago) - it may be able to be saved yet however. Will have to see what happens. Im fair sick of this thing now to be honest.

hm, dyno time sounds like the way to go I think, but before I do i have to get the cat off and have a look, but its fairly new. Old turbos were R34 N1's which are basically GT2860R-7's anyway so I figured the tune would be ok for a while... Time on the dyno was planned on monday anyway to check AFR's. I dont have a timing light, one will have to be borrowed but I think I can arange this. I dont think its a dodgy CAS because it cruises fine, no random mis-fires or anything of the kind. I will do a datalog on my PFC later to see what sort of timing its hitting on the tune as well. I dont think its a fuel supply issue due to its intermittent nature, if the fuel pump couldn't supply enough petrol it would be a constant thing. Pump is a walbro by the way. Good suggestions however keep them coming

Ho Hum, the old turbos were steel wheel'd R34 N1's, the motor compression tests strong and the clutch is less then 3000 k's old os giken twinplate, so I dont think its going to be any of those problems. The timing issue is intresting but the problem is intermittent - it comes and goes based on temperature. Something worth looking at however, but the car was recently tuned and a new gates performance timing kit was put on right before the turbo went. Also the turbo didn't blow, it just let go on the oil seals on the rear. Also did a boost leak test on the car, that was fine.

Howdy everyone Im having a problem where my car looses power after some higher load driving. Was driving around some hills at the speed limit or less tonight, and half way up the hill (10 km or so) the car starts to loose power. It still builds boost fine, infact more then it normally would, but it just makes no power. I pulled over, the muffler was glowing slightly, the turbos were glowing rather alot, and free-revving up to about 4 - 5 k builds a few pound of boost which was quite amazing. I let the car cool for 10 mins and it was ok on the way home, it was still loosing power but the affect was lessened as it cooled. Leaving it for a few hours and its fine again until I start getting near some hills and higher load stuff. I am thinking dead cat / exhaust obstruction but before I go to bash it out to be sure, id like to get others opinions. What do you people think? This problem has been ongoing for a while. The turbos died a few months ago and the car sat in my garage until recently until we bolted a brand new set of 2960R-7's on - I thought the dead turbos had been the problem, but maybe this problem caused my last set of turbos to die prematurely. Thanks for your time Ian

Hum, my old turbo has minimal shaft play but still leaks like a sieve. Whats going on there?

The water line kit above, where does it run from? Is it from the banjo bolt that comes from the hardline that runs accross the top that gets water from both ends (The one that comes round the back of the motor and the silicon hose that runs infront of the CAS) or does it replace this hardline as well?

no good UAS couldnt help me

Hi all Im chasing some braided lines for my RB26dett and am curious as to if anyone knows of any kits? I had a hunt around on the web but couldnt find any. I suspect the problem comes from the fact that the twin turbos share the same water source which would make it difficult. Regards Ian

According to godzilla, my cars timing belt was two teeth out retarded and my motor is now fine with a new timing belt on. Regards Ian

Bleed valves are fine IMO for lower power and lower boost applications. I do agree however with "you get what you pay for" - id never take a bleed over my ID3, its great, and it has protection against overboost, logging etc and multiple settings with are quite useful, also theres other things like scramble boost, if you want to do that, etc... But for anything under 15 psi i think a bleed would be fine, just my opinion however one of many.

its a GTS, no sensor there!