nIsMo86

It just needs to be registered as a 2 seater. Go to a blue slip place and get a change of records form done. Then go to rta and they will change it over for you.

If money is no issue....mod the RB20 to your 200kw. Drive it around until the RB2630 is built up and then bang that in there

+1 RB20...and take the RB30 for later

Oh and AE71 rollas are no longer sleepers...its as obvious as a KE70 drift car. Suzuki Carry in white with rear windows blanked out...454 big block

Mazda 121 bubble "shades"...H22A VTEC turbo or even chuck in a Mazda 3 MPS motor...will tear it to pieces 1985 Toyota Corona 2JZ...in faded blue VB Commodore with HSV stickers etc etc...RB26DETT 80's boxy ford laser sedan with TX3 motor...in faded yellow 1987 Honda Civic GL flat back with B18C head/Crv bottom end turbo frankenstein motor...in brown or cream LADA Niva SR20DET

Yes Terry, i've stopped off there when it was closed one night and it looked awesome. The Bluebird and the R31/DR30? coupe racecars were what got me! Will have to go for a cruise up there for dinner one night.

The MWR34 is looking great in those pics on revscene...just need a better camera Great work!

Terry...I like this Trackside restaurant idea. Sounds good. Also that restaurant is kool! Good choice of roads too! You can put me down for an advanced expression of interest

I'm gonna run mine on a stock RB20 plenum though. So those pics dont help me But thank you for the quick reply. I'm thinking to T piece into the throtle body hoses. Any ideas?

As it says above, heyhey found a loose wire on the fuel pump and fixed it...now all good. Glad you sorted it heyhey.

I completely agree with URAS...its not necessary but it is beneficial as it is easier to bleed and will stop you having unwanted air in system. It works like a header tank does on alot of cars these days...eg mazdas, most saabs, etc. These cars do not have bleed screws to get rid of the air. I personally think it is a good design and am keen to set one up on my RB20. Has anyone done a breather tank on an RB20 and have pics of their setup? Sorry for hijacking the thread a bit. Just keen to see how people have done it. I was thinking to run mine off the coolant lines that go to the throttle body or tap a nipple into the bleed screw hole on plenum.

I used to display as much as i could...now i just have speed and rpm.

Looks like it was awesome day...Great pics! Shame I couldnt make it

You should search. Theres heaps of info on this. Even a tutorial i think in the DIY section.

I keep spotting GO33GO white 33 with superlap stickers around artarmon industrial area. Very close to my girlfriends old plate GO55GO hehe. Nice 33!

Right now me and the mrs are a maybe in the 32...Sounds like it'll be huge!

Heh think i might've been right behind you...33 with plates VRR55H with a yellow 34 with wing next to you?

Had a great night...was a massive turnout! I was 2 rows back from you HU57LR in the black 32. Was parked behind the Queen St Ferrari. Was good to see there werent any people being stupid.

That sux...will keep an eye out. All the best for finding its safe return!

+2 I'm with Punk72... R31Nismoid, You usually have contructive ideas...bad day? In regards to the problem, i'd suggest check your plugs first as it sounds like they may be fouling on idle then cleaning themselves as the revs go up. Also you may have the wrong heatrange...what plugs you using?

Awesome...coming along nicely!

Update: - Rb20 rocker covers series 1 silvertop (painted black) $90 - Fibreglass GTR copy front bar - Removed from 92 GTST (Has crack and minor damage...also bottom lip chopped off) $100 - R32 GTR Series 1 dash modified to have gtst tacho w/clock - Fits all R32's with slight wiring modification - Also good for parts $50 - Rb20 crossover pipe w/bov mount $10 - Bottom half of Rb20 plenum $20 - Rb20 series 2 timing cover $5 - Rb20 PCV valve $10 - Top half Rb20 plenum (has been machined on mounting section so only good for making into custom plenum) $5 - Rb20 exhaust manifold $10 - Sr20 fuel regulator $20 SOLD - New Durapro intake side metal gasket kit w/dump pipe gasket thrown in - Suit RB25 Neo engine $100 - VL oil pressure switch $20 - Clutch fork from rb20 box $5 - Rb20 alternator $90 - Rb20 flywheel $50 - New VL exhaust manifold gasket (has small cut between No.1 and No.2 exhaust ports but will not affect sealing) $20 - Red neon light roughly 30cm long $10 - VL Turbo manual ecu (was reco'd in 1999...cant remember if chipped or not) $100 - VL afm with airbox top half $30 - VL clutch slave cylinder $10 - VL clutch master cylinder (has not been used for a long time so may need new seals) $20 - VL gearknob $30 - VL commodore/calais owners handbook and product information books in a sundells holden folder (owners handbook good condition/product info book glue is coming adrift at spine) $30 - R32 GTR/GTST passenger side taillight in black $50 - VL fuel pump $30 - VL auto ecus X 3 $30ea - Rb30 starter motor $50 - Hornet scoop ( has had fibreglass repair and resprayed white ) $100 - VL afm $20 - VL dizzy complete $50 - VL alternator $50 SOLD - VL coils X 2 $10ea - VL fuel regulator $30 - VL coolant temp sensor $20 - VL tps $20 - VL power transistor $10 - Wrecking Black 1981 KE55 Corolla Sedan SOLD - NSW number plates GO55GO SOLD - Woodgrain steering wheel w/chrome centre (cracks in wood at joins of spokes) $30 SOLD - Fibreglass panels - suit KE55 corolla - brand new L+R front guards, bonnet and bootlid (all painted black) $500 - Set of KE55 tailights (passenger side has small hole in lens) $70 SOLD - KE55 diff - drum to drum (broken sun gear shaft...suit locker or repair) $50 - Set of 4 toyota sprinter AE86 13 inch 4X114.3 wheels (tyres not good) $300 - Set of 5 ROH 15 inch 4X114.3 wheels - tyres are good on most of the wheels $120 - KE55 rear "corolla" centre garnish $20 SOLD

Bump...any info would be helpful.

What brand tyres do you have on the front? Also is the wheel allignment to spec? Because that can also affect understeer/grip. Another factor could be that you have wider tyres on the rear and skinnier tyres on the front causing the rear to force the front to understeer by the rear having more grip. On the diff, I agree that you should shim it to tighten it up. The viscous lsd's do tend to single spin once they have loosened up over time.

Crap brand and/or bald front tyres causing your car to understeer in the wet. With the wheel spin your diff is probably loosening up from old age.