nIsMo86

Hey guys, I still have a bunch of stuff to get rid of. Have redone my list of parts and deleted all sold items to make it easier to read. Also added some new stuff. Located in Sydney. Pickup or willing to post most things anywhere at buyers expense. More stuff to come. If you have any questions or for pics PM me. Cheers. - Rb20 rocker covers series 1 (painted black) $90 - Fibreglass GTR copy front bar - Removed from 92 GTST (Has crack and minor damage...also bottom lip chopped off) $150 - R32 GTR Series 1 dash modified to have gtst tacho w/clock - Fits all R32's with slight wiring modification (Series 1 should be straight fit for GTR/GTST) Also good for parts $50 - Rb20 crossover pipe w/bov mount $10 - Bottom half of Rb20 plenum $20 - Rb20 series 2 timing cover $5 - Rb20 PCV valve $10 - Top half Rb20 plenum (has been machined on mounting section so only good for making into custom plenum) $5 - Rb20 exhaust manifold $10 - Sr20 fuel regulator $20 - New Durapro intake side metal gasket kit w/dump pipe gasket thrown in - Suit RB25 Neo engine $100 - VL oil pressure switch $20 - Clutch fork from rb20 box $5 - Rb20 alternator $90 - Rb20 flywheel $50 - New VL exhaust manifold gasket (has small cut between No.1 and No.2 exhaust ports but will not affect sealing) $20 - Red neon light roughly 30cm long $10 - VL Turbo manual ecu (was reco'd in 1999...cant remember if chipped or not) $100 - VL afm with airbox top half $30 - VL clutch slave cylinder $10 - VL clutch master cylinder (has not been used for a long time so may need new seals) $40 - VL gearknob $30 - VL commodore/calais owners handbook and product information books in a sundells holden folder (owners handbook good condition/product info book glue is coming adrift at spine) $30 - R32 GTR/GTST passenger side taillight in black $50 - VL fuel pump $30 - VL auto ecus X 3 $30ea - Rb20 starter motor $50 - Hornet scoop ( has had fibreglass repair and resprayed white ) $100 - VL afm $20 - VL dizzy complete $50 - VL alternator $50 - VL coils X 2 $10ea - VL fuel regulator $30 - VL coolant temp sensor $20 - VL tps $20 - VL power transistor $10 - Damaged Black 1981 KE55 Corolla Sedan (No rego,no plates...130,000km, repairable damage) $1000ono - NSW number plates GO55GO $Offers - Woodgrain steering wheel w/chrome centre (cracks in wood at joins of spokes) $30 - Fibreglass panels - suit KE55 corolla - brand new L+R front guards, bonnet and bootlid (all painted black) $500 - Set of KE55 tailights (passenger side has small hole in lens) $70 - KE55 diff - drum to drum (broken sun gear shaft...suit locker or repair) $100 - Set of 4 toyota sprinter AE86 13 inch 4X114.3 wheels (tyres not good) $300 - Set of 5 ROH 15 inch 4X114.3 wheels - tyres are good on most of the wheels $120 - KE55 rear "corolla" centre garnish $20

I have also had a ticking sound from the passenger side of the car but have never worked out the problem as its very very intermittent. I have thought it was boost solenoid for avcr screwing up. RB20 starter motor failure can cause this though from what i found with mine. I had starter motor fail and my electrics went crazy and also heard the ticking from pass side. Also killed my battery in the process. Fitted new starter and battery and all was normal again.

Congrats on the gains Joeyjoejoe... Wanna try this on my RB20. Anyone know how readily available e85 is in nsw? Also has anyone tried it on an RB20?

+1 I agree. When you get your licence back with fresh points, you'll lose 3 of them straight off. What speeding fine you get? Cause you may get an extra suspension for that. And extra suspensions do not overlap in nsw as someone previously said. You receive the extra suspension after you finish the original one.

First of all you will need to buy/borrow a timing light. Read the RB25 workshop manual section on checking your timing. It explains how to check and adjust it. Then use the timing light to advance it to whatever you wanna set it to. If you do advance it, make sure it doesnt ping. Also you must run it on 98 octane fuel to help avoid pinging.

Doesnt this above post answer your question?? ^^^^^^

The alloytec motor is the same as saab uses in the 93 aero...V6 turbo. The saab version is an awesome motor.

The touge thing looks like it'll be interesting to watch...you going down alan? I'm going to drive.

+1 for battery issue

Spotted black 34 GTR at my gf's work...Plates AWB. Very nice. Anyone on here?

I completely agree GTR-32U. That is one of my pet hates of the stupid things people do on the road. Some people definately need education in this department. I was driving to Tamworth on the F3 once and a person in a falcon did this to me right in front of a HWP cop who was behind me trying to clock my speed. The cop nearly ran up my arse as i braked for the idiot. The cop instantly gave up on me and pulled over and reversed back and busted the idiot in the falcon. Was good to see

I have spotted that same guy around my area (Five Dock). He has a very similar plate to me. Dont think its a real GTR though.

Sounds better than the old scheme. I lost 3 points for 11 over mid last year.

Could be because it is a new exhaust. They take awhile to "bed" in. Some have a burning smell, some make noises.

Yep i reckon you'll beat it! Judging by the way my VL goes with alot less work than you've done.

Where did you see it?

I'll be there at this one...i booked ages ago. Whats with the team red team white stuff?

Dont you mean input shaft?

Which power fc does it suit?

Ok i cant tell you how to do a CAI on 33 GTR exactly but i'm sure its similar to a 32. Heres pics of what i did...note that the pod is enclosed in a custom airbox aswell. I enlarged a hole that was already underneath my pod to approx 100mm in size. Fitted a rubber seal to the exposed metal. Fitted a 100mm PVC elbow joiner in the hole (Fits very snugly). Sprayed it black. Fitted some 100mm household flexible exhaust fan ducting to the pipe and then joined to inlet hole on my front bar. Gained 14kw atw on my following dyno run and also gives much better top end and obviously cooler intake temps. Have since modified my front bar inlet to a sealed duct that goes from the size of inlet hole and tapers in to 100mm but havent got pics or dynoed as yet. Heres the pics.. Sorry bout the bad quality of pics. Hope that helps give you an idea of what to do.

Sounds like a rear lower control arm to me...but yeah pics would help ALOT!

Lol...way to talk him out of an R30! A mate of mine's dad runs a workshop that specialises in old nissans, datto's, Z's etc and are very good with them. They also build rally cars and race them. If your located in sydney they could help sort it out. Stewart Wilkins Motorsport 02 45772400 www.swmotorsport.com.au I dont know much about L series motors so hope that helps!

+1 for a dvd please...i'll pm you terry...thanks

Hey i didnt get to make my donation today as i arrived late then we had to leave early...Can i drop you off some cash Illusive? Maybe during the week or bank transfer?

I think the speed alarm is meant to go off above 100kph. I know on other jap cars that this is the case. And yeah i agree, the best way to remove it is to take out the cluster and disconnect the silver box on the back of it.