HINGO

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Just quickly want to know if the 2 plugs on the R33 gearbox are just a standard plug that can be purchased from any auto shop or from Nissan itself or similar? If so what are they called or part number(s)? Have a 33 box in my VL, but the plugs on my manual loom are different and need to be swapped over, there is bugger all length on the 33 plug wires so Im not that keen on cutting them back just yet. Also, whats the easiest way of working out which is the reverse plug and which is the neutral plug? Thanks...

SOLD

Item: JayCar Electronic Boost controller (with 2 seperate programmable maps) JayCar Digital Fuel Adjuster JayCar Hand Controller Location: Capalaba, Brisbane (can post at buyers expense) Item Condition: Built, but un-used Reason for Selling: Decided to go a different boost controller Price and Payment Conditions: $250 for the lot... OR $100 for Boost controller, $100 for Fuel Adjuster, $80.00 for hand controller Extra Info: All 3 units were purchased in Kit form and have completely been built and are ready to use. Only thing required is a boost solenoid for the boost controller (which can be found on a majority of Japanese turbo motors that use dual boost controlling). Hand controller is required to tune each unit. They come with a manual on a CD and also booklet form, plenty of colour coded wire and a couple of other little bits n pieces, and the 25 pin cable. Pictures: hand Controller Boost controller Fuel Adjuster Contact Details: Can reply to this thread or PM. Otherwise email me at skatin_the sphincter of the [email protected] Independent Electronic Boost Controller Absolutely superb control over your turbo boost curve. It can be used in cars fitted with factory electronic boost control using the factory control solenoid, or cars without electronic boost control using a solenoid from a wrecker etc. It actually has two different completely programmable boost curves. This is ideal for switching between say, a race / street mode, or a performance / wet weather mode. Each boost map has 64 points able to be adjusted in 1% duty cycle increments. Boost curve selection is via a dashboard switch, and it is all programmed using the Handheld Digital Controller - KC-5386. Kit supplied with PCB, machined case, and all electronic components. * Suitable for EFI and engine management systems only. Digital Fuel Adjuster This unit is a huge revolution in DIY automotive performance. It gives you the power to completely tune the air/fuel ratio throughout the entire load range, at 128 load points, providing incredible mapping resolution and brilliant drivability. It uses the Handheld Digital Controller – KC5386, so there is no need for a laptop, and it supports both static and real-time mapping. It can be used on 0-5V and 0-12V signals, so it is compatible with all voltage output airflow meters and MAP sensors. It can also be set to work with 0-1V signals, allowing modification of EGO sensor signals. This unit has been extensively tested on a wide range of cars including Subaru Impreza WRX and STi, Nissan 200SX, BMW 735i, Lexus LS400, and Nissan Maxima. Kit supplied with PCB, machined case, and all electronic components. Kit requires the Handheld Digital Controller – KC5386. Hand Controller for Digital Adjusters This hand controller is used for the mapping/programming of both Digital Adjuster kits. It features a two line LCD, and easy to use pushbuttons. It can be used to program the adjusters then removed, or left permanently connected to display the adjuster’s operation. It is designed as an interface and display, and is not required for general adjuster functions after they have been programmed. If you have built and installed multiple adjuster kits, you will only need one controller to program, unless you want permanent displays for each adjuster function. Kit supplied with silk screened and machined case, PCB, LCD, and all electronic components. Requires RS232 Connecting Computer Lead (Use our WC-7502 lead)

$50.00 including postage...

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Got a spare R33 manual gearbox cross member and slip yoke sitting around from my conversion parts... Both in good condition... Currently missing the bolts on the cross member, but I may be able to source some for the buyer if you like. Items loated in Brisbane, South Side. Can post both items at the buyers expense. If you have any questions, you can PM me or send me an email to skatin_the sphincter of the [email protected] Not sure what they are worth so feel free to make me an offer: -R33 skyline manual tailshaft Yoke $40.00 -R33 manual gearbox cross member $60.00

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to the top... Manual R33 cross member added now...

Hmmmm no, not yet at least... sorry Get on calaisturbo.com.au and try on there. There is bound to be a few sets sitting about....

BUMP... few more things added...

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I've got a brand new 3inch stainless steel v-band clamp with 2 stainless flanges to suit. Came with a turbo I bought, but were too big. Can post at buyers expense... $50.00 Can contact me via PM or msn/email skatin_the sphincter of the [email protected]

Recently put an R33 box into my VL and had to swap the speedo sender so now the electronic one is no longer needed. Looks to be in perfect condition. No idea what its worth so i'll say $50.00 to who ever wants it... Located in Brisbane. Can post at buyers expense... SOLD!

Got a couple of things no longer needed. Will add pictures upon request. Postage is available on all items at buyers expense. Will add other bits as I find them. -VL-VS 28spline mini spooled diff centre with 3.45 gears $220.00 -VL turbo cross over pipe $50.00 -VL turbo inlet pipe (from turbo to afm) $40.00 PIC SOLD -VL cat back exhaust (standard size, press bent) $30.00 -VL 18mm swaybar (brand new with rubbers) $50.00 PIC -VL Calais Grey rooflining $50.00 -VL Calais S1 door trims (3 only) $60.00 PIC PIC -VL Calais side skirts (2 short halves only) $30.00 -VL n/a slave cylinder $20.00 -VL n/a manual sandwhich plate (can be used with R33 gerbox) $35.00 -VL manual surround (metal one that is pop riveted to tunnel) $20.00 SOLD -VL manual gearbox cross member to suit Supra box $50.00 -VL n/a auto gearbox with tailshaft, pressure plate, shifter, computer, bolts etc $50.00 SOLD -VL Front centre bar mould (silver) $10.00 -VL Berlina LH tail light $15.00 -VL Commodore LH tail light $15.00 -VL SL steering wheel (green/blue colour) $20.00 -Momo boss kit $50.00 -3inch stainless steel V-Band clamp with 2 stainless flanges $50.00 PIC PIC -AU thermo fans (have been cut up a little to fit front side of radiator) $140.00 -R33 skyline manual speedo sender (electric) $50.00 SOLD -R33 skyline manual tailshaft Yoke $40.00 -R33 manual gearbox cross member $60.00 Will swap for items of interest: -VL windscreen surrounds -Electronic Boost solenoid -Calais tail lights, eye brows, boot garnish Im located in Capalaba, sth side brisbane. Any questions you can PM me or email/msn me at skatin_the sphincter of the [email protected]

Ahhh good idea... will give that idea a go to. Its just my VL plugs are different to the skyline plug so im going to have to chop and change the plugs and wanna double check which one is which first...

One other thing while I got this thread. Looking at the drivers side of the gearbox which plug is which. Is it the neutral switch on the left and the reverse lights switch on the right or the other way round?

Oh ok, makes sense. So the tailshaft normally being connected is enough to keep it still?

Didnt try to grab onto it... Might try that and see what happens...

Hi, I've just put an R33 box onto the back of my RB30 (VL turbo) and have currently got just the yoke sitting in the back of the gear box (until I get my tailshaft built) to stop the oil from coming out, and with the car running and I pull the clutch out with the gearbox in neutral it actually spins. Is this right/usual or is there something up? So should there be any drive through the gearbox at all in neutral. My thinking was that there shouldtn be any what so ever. But I thought maybe there could be as long as the tailshaft is all connected up from box to diff (which would provide some form of resistance to keep it from spinning at all) Need to know asap... Cheers

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Is that box alone? No clutch, flywheel etc?

How hard to adapt to RWD? Need box for my VL turbo, and what would I be looking at to get it working?

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