Danzzigger

Hey mate, I'm after the interior carpet and I was wondering whether I could come around and get the drivers side floor 'molded'. I'm building a simulator and need the drivers side floor mold so that everything goes together easier. Think I'll use that foam stuff to get the mold and then use that to create a surface to fibreglass. Then chuck the carpet back ontop. Do you think this'll be alright for me to do? Cheers mate ~Danz

Yeah I actually saw your car, but im still waiting for my full license otherwise it would be definitely considered... Very nice car mate. Good luck with the sale.

Mate this car looks awesome. Very nicely tuned, doesn't have a over the top bodykit, just smooth. This is what all r34's should look like, well I guess if they did we wouldn't appreciate the special ones like yours anymore. Good luck on the sale mate.

I could really see this going somewhere though, if it was only used to 'giddy up' the engine through the low rpm until the turbo charger has enough momentum to take over. Then to stop it from choking the system, go around it via a bypass valve or something. Definitely shouldn't be used as a stand alone forced induction. That way it doesn't use a stupid amount of power from the batt either. On that note, why do people put more batteries into the car in order to compensate for the elec supercharger. Wouldn't you be improving the alternator, not the batteries? I mean it's like having a 100L fuel tank but never actually filling it up that much as it gets used quicker than it can store it.

Point taken. I think everyone is pretty much pointing towards it not being worth the effort since I want such lower power numbers. The only reason I was wanting this engine was because I thought a sacrifice of power could bring forth a more torque / rev happy engine, and the combination of mods I wanted to do would raise that goal. Yea I know it'll rev harder, won't have the torque / response when cruising that I'm after. lol true, I've heard this one before... just which one to sacrifice is the hard question to answer. Alrighty I can see where your coming from, and I can't deny that I'm googling words a lot Good to hear this response from someone who owns a rb30det setup. Are you really having so many problems with it? or is it the fact that your going for high power figures? This is the reason I was not wanting to go right ahead and build up a 240z, it's a dream... but not achievable at this point in time, I would just screw myself over. Where as I figured if I started with the engine, I could later on transplant it into a 240z later on down the track. And I'd never get a bank loan for a car / modifications, loans are for investments. Alrighty, everyone is pointing in the direction that it is better to modify the cars stock engine (not sure if it'll be a r33 or r34 yet), over building up an engine for the power figure I'm after. So I'd be stupid to do otherwise. I want to thank everyone for the time and opinions as it has saved me countless days researching something which in real terms seems pointless. I'm not sure if anyone still wants to discuss the rb30det revvy engine just for research purposes and throwing ideas around, but obviously the options there. I want to... actually scrap that... A friend of mine ( ) would like to know what would be the most responsive setup on a rb engine, any rb engine. Would it actually consist of a rb30 setup, or would it be the rb26? Non turbo, single turbo, twin? - Just curiousity Would buying a GTR be the best approach to getting that response I'm after? I'm not sure if this is a easy question to answer, or more importantly understand. But which skyline is best setup for response in relation to how much power they have. For instance if the rb25det came from the factory with the same power a GTR has, would it be as responsive? Less? I know it's kind of a stupid question to ask as it's all got to do with the turbo that's behind it and how quickly it spools up. But I'm just trying to understand where I should maybe shift my focus of research towards. Because I still want a responsive car that reacts quickly. I mean if your limited to a 100kph speed limit, how much more power do you really need. I see it more effective to have a engine that can response really well inside the speed limit without battling with lag. Anyway I want to thank everyone again that's contributed, I'll take this under my belt and continue with my research in the now narrowed down field. Cheers ~Danz

I'm not into blowing up engines, I'm into doing things the right way the first time. I mentioned at the start of my thread that I want a reliable engine, and where possible I want to do this bang for buck - blowing up engines seems like a bit of a waste. gcg highflow is something I haven't heard before though. Just googled it, something about a company transforming the stock turbo so that it can take a good 260rwkw? This sounds like a very good option as the stock turbo is quite small (good for response) and using something existing will bring the costs down. Do you know of the top of your head how much something like this costs, and what they do? As for controlling power, I don't want to say that I know what it's like because I don't. However I drove my brothers r33 stock gtst on my L's and I could begin to feel the limitations towards the end. stock rb25det's are around 125rwkw stock (correct me if I'm wrong), so that's why I'm saying I'd be happy with 200rwkw. However this is really not what I wanted to focus on, I want response not a kw figure. Seems like people keep suggesting to stick with the 25 and not bother with the 30. This does make sense in many ways, and it might be what I end up doing. But I'm just wanting to see what other options are available in achieving a rev happy engine. You can tell I love my rb30's Driving a 31 atm, I just hate the electronics on the thing, the block / mechanical side of it goes hard though.

Thanks for the sarcasm. If i want to learn about how a rb30det can go into a s13, s14, s15, r31, r32, r33, r34 and any other car the engine can go in, and all the other information it provides, I'll read it. However at this point in time I just want to know simply what is possible, and what is worth doing. Minutes of other peoples time can save days of my time and for that I am really appreciative for anyone who gives me some kind of information or suggestion. I know it may sound selfish, but it's as if I'm reading the whole dictionary just in case I want to use some superfluous word one day (and that's not evidence that I have in fact done that ). If the information is more direct and informative to what I need I'll read it no problems, many times over... Like the rb30 guide on the first page, that's fantastic. Anyway I've said enough. Ok at first I didn't understand what your talking about but after some googling I've got an idea what your on about. From what I can visualize in my head is when you shave the block, the belt looses its tension on both the left and right side, for every mm you take off, you loose 2mm of belt. So considering that the tensioner is on one side of the rb (lhs isn't it?) so therefor it advances / retards the timing. From what I understand if the tensioner is on the lhs, the rb's rotate clockwise if your standing in front so the cams will open close later so there for its advancing it. If the tensioner was on the rhs, it would retard it wouldn't it? People are saying you can just get some cam gears and then you have plenty to play with, I thought this is what you meant with gears, but wasn't 100% sure. So considering that you could leave the bottom end stock (would rather leave the block alone) and just shave it. Then do all my work on the 'brains' of then engine, at the top end. I'm just seeing that cracking open the bottom end to swap the pistons will be costly and time consuming. Shaving seems the best alternative if it means I just need to run some cam gears to fix the problem and a different belt. What are the advantages / disadvantages? I would most likely be putting adj cam gears on to get the tune I'm after anyway. I was thinking about it today and I think the best approach is to go with the 26 head as its got more advantages than disadvantages. Has the front facing plenum like we are after, has the twin turbos, which would be great for response and it's no added cost. No VCT modification required so thats a bonus.

I'm thinking along the same lines, low rpm boost. But what if it was only used until the turbo comes in, somewhat like the new vw TSI engine which has both a supercharger and turbocharger, once boost goes past a specific amount, the clutch for the supercharger disengages and the turbo is solely run. In the same way, an electric supercharger could be used, say it gives it boost until the turbo spools up enough. And in terms of choking the airflow, it could run a bypass valve / pipe which will flow the air around the elec supercharger. I've never actually heard about this before... so you sacrifice your a/c for performance, it pumps the air into the exhaust manifold... very interesting. This would only benefit n/a engines I would imagine? I noticed when reading up on it that it said it lets the fuel burn for a longer period of time resulting in less restriction of flow. Does a stock engine normally have flames in the exhaust? I mean I know you can do stuff with timing and cutting ingnition in order to get flames out the end of the exhaust, but I didn't realize that there was actual flames outside the combustion area of an engine. What kind of improvement would this modification give you, would it be a better alternative than the elec supercharger in terms of power, weight, and cost? And are a/c units made to have a constant high duty - will it fail over time?

People say that it is a waste of time. I was interested in doing it a while back due to being on P's and having restrictions to only driving n/a. Was going to fit a turbine into the intake piping, 3 inch or so for the stealth look. But the argument behind it was that it runs out of puff and will start to be restrictive to the engine at the mid / top end. Here is a link from a properly done one and what was achieved: http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0406tur_...rger/index.html And a quick link to a pic of the system, it's not just a simple fan: I still think that there's something behind the turbine in the intake piping though... brushless motors are damn fast and incredibly efficient. If you could make it flow really well it could help with bottom end torque and not restrict the upper end. Probably not worth it though. Only be useful for lightly tuned engines or stealth n/a for p drivers. Hope this helps ~Danz

Thanks for the replies, I don't know much about turbos and stuff so when people list of names and sizes it doesn't mean much to me untill I actually see the thing. Sorry, I didn't realise a gt2530 was so unfitting for a rb30det. the main reason I've always wanted a rb30det is because its a good base for the future, I'll soon get sick of 200rwkw and want more. And when I do, I know the bottom end isn't going to be a problem, from what I've heard the rb30 has to be the best over engineered bottom end from the rb series. I've heard of people pulling 500 - 600hp completely stock. Like I said, I'm wanting this engine to later on go in another car, but perhaps your right and I'm best off just modifying the stock rb25det. Problem is and paulr33 highlighted it in the last post is that when you try and sell your car with all the blood sweat and tears that you put into it, no one gives a shit and wants rock bottom dollar. So I'd rather put all my effort into a engine I can take back out, and then stick the stock one back in. I maybe naive, but I was under the impression that the rb30det conversion wouldn't cost that much more than modifying a 25. Custom engine mounts - I can weld something up. Use all the 25 or 26 stuff around the motor as the rb's are basically the same. The engine management remains the same due to the same head, just bigger capacity. I haven't read up on what exactly is done in a conversion (I'm not going to read a 300page thread), I have seen a couple engines though, and one in a hr31. And I'm not going to be going into the effort of ITB, thanks for the suggestion though - would sound sick too . I like where bradsm87 is going with the raising the compression and then sticking the bigger turbo on. Raising the compression would be something I'm definitely after doing. I wanted to shave the block cause it's worth much less than the engine, and if I stuff it up, it'll only cost me 50 bucks, small price to pay. If I stay with the rb25det and stick on a larger turbo, won't I be loosing that response that I'm after? I'm taking all responses in and trying to analyze what's the best approach, so thanks for all the replies so far. ~Danz

Hey all, I was wanting to do some research for the future when I turn 21 (finally get my full license) - I've got one yr left. So basically I was wondering what is involved in creating a rb30det responsive engine. When I say responsive I mean boost comes on really low, and the engine loves to rev. Somewhat like a f1 car but obviously not quite as responsive as that. Now I've read a few threads in regards to it, like 'I want my skyline to revv' and 'Getting your r33 to do 12's' (or something similar to that), but I was wondering if there was a little more insight into doing it to a rb30det as the capacity is another .5L and they tend to rev less. However saying that, the .5L gives the engine a lot more torque and from what I can understand torque is were responsive engines dominate. f1 cars are high tuned v8's and they are very responsive (and have torque). - Correct me if this observation is wrong though. So basically the goal of the engine is; Reliability Boost doesn't come on hard - easier to drive / control Loves to revv when you want it to - can plant foot in high gear even at 2000 - 3000rpm and still get a good response For a power figure, that's not really my goal, but lets say 200rwkw if that doesn't compromise response. Now this will be a street car (most likely a r33) so reliability is highly sought after, I'm not going to do anything that will compromise that. These are the suggestions I've heard from others about modifications for a 'responsive engine'; Lightened pully's take off clutch fan and put on elec radiator fans lightened flywheel changing gear ratio's raising compression new turbo, like a hks gt2530 (I think that's the one) r34 smic Carbon tailshaft Now I don't really want to go too much into a debate on some of the items like the inter cooler, flywheel and carbon tailshaft (I've read enough from the 'i want my skyline to revv' thread). When I make this motor I'm looking to use it in multiple cars, so when I outgrow the r33, I might move onto a 240z or something. So I want to focus mainly on the engine, less on things like gear ratios, fmic's etc. However saying that, I'm willing to make an improvement on the car if it gives me a substantial gain. So this is where I need some suggestions, what should I do, and where should I start. Firstly, should I not even bother with the rb25det engine, but instead get a rb26 head and build upon that? - the rb26 has a forward facing plenum stock, and is good for a large amount of power. If I ever want to go fmic, which I will later I'm sure (might not be in this car, but if I go with the 26, it probably will be), the forward facing plenum reduces the amount of piping (less heat), so more power and response. So I need to settle on that first as it will determine my next move. Good things about getting a rb26: forward facing plenum stock twin turbo's bigger combustion area in head (most likely will never be used though) Have a cool gtr stamp on the top of the engine Bigger injectors (room for improvement) compared to r33 rb25, the computer can be remapped Bad things: If I'm to do it in a r33 I'll need to swap looms - How hard is this, how long does it take? need to go with a fmic (or is the stock a smic?) Lots of other things wont bolt up so easily I imagine - piping etc larger cost more time involved Car no longer looks stock So a issue I'd have with the rb25 would be engine management after I've done my mods if I don't go with the rb26. Instead would a r32 rb25 be a option? - how do these bolt up? are the wiring looms the same, any other differences? The plan is to have this engine ready to pop into the car as it will be driven daily, and I won't be able to afford to keep it off the road for a long time. (so the engine will be built up outside the car) Also I forgot to mention that I'm really after getting a good tune, everything comes down to tuning, efficiency, power, reliability, so this is something that will not be missed. Oh yea and legality, trying to keep myself under the radar if possible - how difficult is it to get it engineered? I leave it at that, hopefully your understanding what I'm trying to achieve. Hopefully we can produce some good ideas. Thanks for your time ~Danz

I'm not too worried about loosing in drags, I've had my fun moments in my brothers car on my L's (loser fly by from commodore... hilarious actually). But I just find auto's so... boring, there's nothing to do... you have less control, less power, less fuel economy. Why did they invent the things! lol The only reason I have a auto skyline is cause the r31 skylines only came in a sports and luxury version. The TI doesn't come as a manual, and the Silo doesn't have any of the electrics (pwr windows etc). - plus the TI's have mostly had a good life compared to the silo's.

The vicroads website doesn't say anything about engine transplants, they only say doing power modifications are illegal. I know someone that does engineer certificates, would this be enough to get the car registered as a non turbo? From what I've heard engineer certificate kinda means no question's asked... it's legal. In any case, will I be attracting that much more attention in a 180sx considering that I've never been pulled over by a blue boy in my r31 skyline? I'm just sick of havin a auto... you can't do anything with a auto when they've got such little power. ~Danz

True, but I'm being a little more specific. r33 manual, turbo, stock except for a pod filter and its BLACK. Plus I didn't realize till lookin around that his series 1 looks way better than a series 2 at the rear as the taillights sit flush. (hate tail lights that stick out, looks shit) So that's another thing that makes it quite rare. Maybe i'm wrong but I haven't found another car like it even if I was excluding it being a series 1 or 2. I'm not sure what I'm going to do now, I was looking at buying a n/a car but since everything is out of proportion I'm thinking of getting a turbo car with a stuffed engine and dropping a n/a one in. In terms of cost effectiveness: (cheapest / bang for buck) Turbo car > n/a car turbo engine < n/a engine Bit funny isn't it... I know this is probably the wrong section to ask this in but does anyone know how difficult it is to drop a sr20de into a 180sx when it originally had a sr20det? ~Danz

Tampon taxi? 4dr skyline? They're hard to find, my brother has a rare r33 4dr gtst manual and black in colour. Sassy... However I prefer the 2dr as I've owned a 4dr long enough to realize that I don't need the extra rear doors (lack of friends lol). ~Danz