ENTYSU

best thing is too get an atomiser bottle(spray bottle) mixed with metho and water does great results plus the metho makes it dry quick so u dont have too use a hose .... after that i usually get the elbow grease into it with some mothers mirror glase .... comes up shiny as a mo fo

well ive converted the price too aussi dollars and the whole kit for my car is $ 2,139.00 thats with 20mm wider at the front , and 50mm wider at the back , front bar, rear bar and skirts..... ive put a deposit on em already through internet hehe wide body here i come

just give her heeps of revs dump the clutch and youll be burning rubber rather than clutch ......much better style

its mainly the rich fuel curve in the fuel map after boosting hard you back of str8 away and there will be excess fuel in the exhaust and combustion chamber and when u come back on hard you are just burning alot more fuel at that moment thats why u get a wicked pop and maby even a shoot of flame if u have a hi flow cat or better yet non at all ..

still when u have your heart set on a car it dont matter how old the dam car is ... my one is a 1990 model and it still looks the part

yeh but i think i have found my body kit thanks goon its a great kit

7 pounds ... dam i recomend going too a mechanic and getting your fuel pump diagnosed .... fuel pressure wise and fule flow rate ... trust me most imports stuff there fuel pump b4 long due too the boost

Wont damage the car man just the DAM engine ... ,realy bad like no more engine after a single vital knock

yes indeed if you have those mounts solid now i have the same thing in my 180 it feels like your on a rail track ... you will think everythings stuffed but its just the transfer of every lil bumb from the road through the solid mounts ..... im just a bit concerned about when your under load it gets worse ... i realy reckon its your uni joints .... just get under your car with the handbrake on and what u need too do is too see at each uni joint check if there is any sideways movment or up and down if there is more than 1 mil there stuffed and need too be replaced if not your gonna get a drive shaft coming throught the floor too say hello too you ..... but as for the vibrations through solid mounted bushes well you cant do squat about it just change them back over too rubber but then whats the fun in that .....

hahah true

yes i mean that ...kind off like when its hitting fuel cut , u will see a blast of black smoke during that pop.... you will know if its pinging mate , just listen for a ratteling sound coming from the valve train ... like a clangy sound , that means its realy lean and its pre detoating due too great heat in the combustion chamber, if its doing this STOP! straight away or youll have melted pistons in no time ...... well if u can see no puff of smoke i think u might be leaning out mate ... how much boost are you running and do u have a fuel cut defender or anything else modified too your computer system

dam man just practise .... i generaly say just practise on level ground first without any acceleration, then practise on a gental slope with minimal acceleration on major slopes just use the handbrake too assist you , use hand brake just untill you feel load on the engine thats when your clutch is engaging then slowly release your hand brake as well at the same time using a little acceleration you would not need too go above 1000rpm too take off from a hill if you do it will result in a smelly intirior for a while ...hehe ... "practise makes perfect "

shit man i hate that when that starts too happen ... yes mainly due too hard suspension and soilid mounts cause the problems ....just spoils a nice looking car... ok what i have found too do is , im not sure if your mechanicly minded or not but i do a thurer check every six months all over my car yes it takes me nearly a whole day too do this check but its worth it ....... i check all ball joints, bushes diff slap, caster rods, strut braces, lower and upper control arms, panels, interior plastics and dash, seats , also head light supports , its amazing how many times ive had too change clips from interior covers due too hard suspension...also check your sub frame for any fractures due too stress from adjustables after a while they do tend too form small fractures..... its a long and painfull process mate but in the end it will pay off . i recomend doing the check up your self just for reasurance and peace of mind cause the owner of the car will always do a thurer job not like other ppl ..... good luck with the squeeks.... P.S.......Being a mechanic for a while now ive had a commen experience with driveline grones, NO1 check you uni joints at either end of your drive shaft .... its the most commen part for this grone, also check your weel bearings and diff Lash, if its not that well then go too gearbox , EG what gear does it grone in and or what speed....

yeh true mostley what drifto said , just make sure your not leaning out at that point , or when it is just about too happen just see if there is a plum of black smoke after the pop. it could be a glitch in the fuel map coming onto boost.

thats a 34 man must be a miss print ... no way thats a 32 haha if it was i would be buying it ...hehe .....

no probs man glad too help an import fan out

haha my mistake Alex... i was too tyred plus ill look at the web site looks a great kit from here though

mmmmm well i do belive the oil squirters are also for the bore because of the angle of the squirters is too great for it too squirt up into the piston crown .......

good stuff thanks ...

stick with the RB30det block and put the Rb25 det head on too make it twin cam very common in all skylines and vls .... should fit i dont see why not engine mounts will fit just use your rb30 block from the vl stick a rb 25 head on it . dont know why u wanna use the vl gearbox just get a manual or rb 25 manual stick it behind the rb30 you have to sheer the dowl in the rb25 box too accept the block if not it wont line up .... well if u wanna drag or drift im assuming u wanna drag so stick with the vl auto beef it up a lil and go tear the strip down ... if u want go with a powerglide 2 speed box they are as tuff as guts and dont need much modifying too get it too race specs chuck a high stall convertor in it and theres a few seconds gaind alone .....

good luck bro would be a costly exersise too destroy a skyline 34 just for the front half dam you have balls ...

need a wide body kit for my 180 pictured on left anyinfo would be help

Due too the fact that im changing the perspective of my car . and was hunting around for good wide body kits for my 180 pictured on the right i found car mate had a good deal for fiber glass guards for 250 a pair , but was realy interested in the wide body drifter look low sleek and PHAT!... if anyone has info or has done this (hopfully not) hehe give us some names and pointers

woe man you makin me mind read ? MX7 bolting up too were what ? all mounts are the same like rb 30 rb 25 and 26 ..... dam sell the vl get a skyline everything will marry up too the std skyline. need more specific info mate

Yeh true .... well your between a rock and a hard place man ...... i reckon get a 32 GT-R and get a good kit on it Like a Veilside or C-west ... check those sights out and they have mean body kits for a 32 GT-R... myself i do prefer the 32 but love the rear end of the 34...