GOD12A

TEINs gone, TT pipe gone, still have sump. Heya NISR32.5, I fabbed the sump for a customer who didn't come through with the remaining cash. PM me if you'd like more info regarding your application etc Mark

All parts are located in Blaxland NSW, 10min past Penrifff on the M4. R32 GTR TEIN Super Streets: $250 Only removed as they were replaced with custom MCA/Bilstein coilovers. They've been sitting in the garage for a while in the same spot and haven't leaked. They drove well on the street and stuck on the track pretty well. Were purchased from Fulcrum in Qld, so they're Aussie spring rates to suit our roads, not the stiffer JDMYO-spec rates. GTR Extended/baffled/gated sump: $1100 Has increase capacity by around 1.5L. Most workshops prefer to cut the factory cast sump floor and fabricate a sheetmetal one, but unless the floor is lowered, it'll give no increase in capacity from our approach, so we prefer to keep it in place to reduce any possible warpage during welding and keep maximum strength. We can increase capacity beyond the 1.5L shown, but feel it's unnecessary if the right cooling, baffles and oil pump are used. This sump features -10 fittings on both sides of the sump which can be used to vent crank pressure to the head and increase oil flowback on engines with blowby issues or big boost applications. All fittings are above the windage tray to stop high g-forces moving oil up the lines. The baffled windage tray shown has four 70x25mm gates with walls extending from the underside of the windage tray to the floor of the sump. No oil pickup modifications are required for either baffle or extended sump mods. Leak tested and will come with -10 blanking caps as shown in pic and standard diff. RB26 twin turbo split pipe with mod: $150 (actual pipe in pic, painted in heatproof 'aluminium' paint) This modification stops compressor surge (shuffle) between aftermarket twin turbos. Some workshops like to cut the forward/upper of the pipe off and reweld across the top, but we prefer to slot from the rear to save welding across the top; we think it just looks neater. We've read some owners in the UK have had back-to-back 10hp gains with this mod only, whether it's true or not, it'll definitely stop the turbo 'shuffle' on bigger twin turbos. Some flow testing on Youtube: Standard: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8GUhVdko84 Modified: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRX2NhlXB-c Mark 0417 049 016

Sold and on its way to Perth for further skidding.

Heya guys, Am I a current SAU member? I'm keen to do some controlled skids this weekend if there's space. Mark

1990 R32 GTR Originally imported specifically for Targa Tasmania and originally prepped by RacePace and Meridian Motorsport. I’m the second Aussie owner. To clarify, number plates are from my old RX3, the GTR *DOES NOT* have an injected bridgeport 12a. 8 months rego. Registered as a coupe, so no back seat required. No folding front seats and has OE belts to keep the po-po happy. 2x Velo GPT-2 fixed back seats mounted to alloy brackets. Very low driving position, I’m 6’2” and have >150mm from helmet to roof, plenty of room for a cage + padding 2x 3” 6pt MotorQuip harnesses with OE belts still fitted for rego Stripped interior, no holes cut other than bolt holes in floor from now-removed bolt-in cage. Alloy centre console covering G-sensor with battery-cut mounted. No trim from B-pillar back, no roof trim. Door trims remain untouched (electrics work) All sound deadening removed from entire car Autometer oil pressure gauge in centre dash, all OE gauges work except oil pressure (obviously now use mechanical gauge) 320kph Nismo speedo Haltech controlled two stage shift light mounted on steering column 2wd/4wd switch in centre dash TerraTrip 303 PLUS wired into cabin. Not currently installed but will be supplied (bracket bolts to glove box area so no holes in dash etc) Removed rear wiper 6pot/355mm forged calipers with 32mm 2pc directional rotors on front (http://www.nengun.com/app/brake-caliper-kit) (http://www.app-top.jp/brake/caliper/index.html) 4pot/330mm forged calipers with 2pc directional rotors on rear (OE handbrake) Braided hoses. OE ABS working. Super DOT4 fluid. QFM pads at both ends (same size pads as Brembo, so easy to source pads) Stops like a mofo… Ex-WTAC custom Bilstein coilovers modified with MCA Gold external canisters (bump + fast/slow rebound adjustment) built by Heasmans Steering. 8.0/6.25 kg/mm springs (will chuck in 14.0/14.0 springs to suit high aero/WTAC setup) ($8k when built a few years back) Serviced regularly by Heasmans Steering Every suspension bush on the car has been replaced with urethane (including steering rack) Adjustable front caster arms with notched upper arms (stops the top bush flogging out with more caster) Whiteline sway bars both ends Nismo strut brace on front Nismo mechanical 2way rear diff/OE front Second stage of power steer pump (ex-HICAS) now feeds power steer cooler between radiator and intercooler OE G-sensor was calibrated to zero while on laser levelled corner scales Corner scaled to 50.0% across diagonals with 90kg driver ballast (adding a 130kg navigator only moved diagonals 0.2%) Turns in hard with very responsive steering 5000km old rebuilt RB26. 340kwatw on 20psi/98RON. Built/tuned for response/midrange Haltech Platinum Pro (heaps of unused features like launch control, antilag, WOT shifting etc) tuned by Race Solutions. I’ve clocked just over 500km to a tank of 98, so it’s tuned for cruise, not just outright power Haltech boost solenoid Haltech two stage shift light on steering column OE bottom end with ACL race series bearings Crank modified with oil pump collar. All press plugs drilled out, pressure cleaned/acid dipped then grub screwed Block bores/deck/tunnel specs confirmed well within OE tolerance so it only required acid dipping and honing Rods and pistons acid dipped and crack tested. New moly rings gapped and fitted. Pistons/rods static balanced/weighed then entire rotating assembly dynamic balanced from balancer to clutch cover 9L large capacity sump (same depth as factory so it’s protected by crossmember in case of an offroad incident!) baffled, gated and sectioned with a 1” breather either side above the windage tray Closed loop breathing system that vents sump to cam covers to ail/air separator before pre-turbo inlet. Oil front separator flows direct to sump (no emptying catch can every trackday…) Very efficient system, car doesn’t breathe much at all, possible overkill… Head was stripped, acid dipped, all valve guides replaced, springs tested fine, OE valves inspected and refitted, intake ports knife edged, exhaust ports cleaned up a tad. Intake plenum/throttle plates/head match ported (not opened up) and head/exhaust manifolds also match ported Cometic MLS head gasket with OE gasket kit throughout entire engine Tomei PonCam Type-B’s (260/9.15mm in/ex) fitted and shimmed well within OE spec. Adjustable cam gears. Gates Racing timing belt N1 water pump Alloy radiator. Silicon hoses. Nismo thermostat Tomei oil pump (that thing is a beast, just touch the throttle to get up on bypass pressure!) Yellow Jacket coils Nismo 550cc injectors Garrett 2860-7 turbos on match ported OE manifolds with oil restrictors. OE dumps Custom intakes (no MAF) leading to twin air filters inside carbon fibre air box (coz bitchez loooove carbon) Modified twin turbo split pipe with separator which stops compressor surge between the -7s under light load 3” exhaust from turbos back with single JDM muffler (Jazma maybe?) Uprated Jim Berry Full Monty. 1400kg Exedy pressure plate with 6 puck ceramic button sprung centre clutch ARC curved oil cooler mounted behind grille running off a thermostatic TRUST sandwich plate OE under tray replaced with flat alloy sheet back to crossmember Since the engine rebuild, I haven’t had one problem (unheard of from an RB26. Buy into this iconic piece of history right here) Currently has R34 GTR wheels fitted with tyres have a few mm on them till wear markers Has wing, but not currently fitted A little rust just behind right rear wheel Couple of minor dents I CBF fixing up This car was built to be a reliable track car with intention of tarmac rallying again. It might not be the biggest power GTR out there, but is very capable package ready to lay down a fast time on a circuit or rally stage. Throw in a cage, chuck on a vinyl wrap and grab some fresh rubber to go racing, or tint the windows and have a legit touge warrior (Hawkesbury hillclimb king, I’ve never had anyone stay with me for more than a few corners. All challengers accepted. Come at me bro. I have a medium quarter pounder meal for anyone faster…) Half cage starts at $630, $2310 national level CAMS cage or $300 more for Tarmac Rally level CAMS cage http://www.agi-precision.com.au/product-category/roll-cages/cams-roll-cages/bolt-in/nissan-roll-cages/skyline-r32-2dr/ Full car wraps start ~$2500+ So for $30k you’d have a reliable, competitive and log booked tarmac rally car with rego. Car is $22k with freshly serviced Bilstein/MCA coilovers. I only negotiate face-to-face, so don’t contact me with offers to swap your 1000kw 12sec VL that your cousin built while in rehab… Will come with the usual box of bits (spare fire extinguishers, safety triangle, some tools, removed interior bits etc) I don’t like selling cool stuff, but it has to go as I have bigger things on my mind! (no, not a house, do you even know me?) Call me, call me now... Mark 0417 049 016 Dyno pull and idle vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZWgEWPTFqc Car is corner scaled 15mm higher in rear ride height since pic Rust on the trailing edge In Targa Tassie guise

Still for sale guys. Just taking up space in the garage.

Heya SUCRAM, yes, 4.375 to be more exact

Still for sale. More torque at the tarmac and no requirement for 'inbetween' gears. IE, no use for 2nd gear at Wakefield or SMSP any longer, just straight shift 3rd and 4th Mark

Still for sale GTR people. Mark

Heya SYCORB, Yep. Front and rear. They look to be in fine condition (well, I was gong to use them, so they're definitely not stuffed!) Only reason for selling is I'd rather fix a few things and get back on track sooner! I can always purchase another set of gears down the track when the money tree grows. Mark

Hey guys, I have a set of 4.3 gears (from GTS4) I'd planned to use in my 32R but have decided to spend the money elsewhere on the car. Located in Western Sydney, but happy to ship at buyers cost. $850 Mark

Thanks Motoractive, you're taking card on the day right? Mark

Please add me to the list

Winning! Thanks Kat Thanks Terry.

Thanks Terry I used to use Adam@JEM for tuning cars at his parents place, under a car port, after hours when he worked at Haltech. Back in the day... Hehehee It's always good to hear other peoples opinions, even though I have no interest in tuning (already many good tuners out there, too much risk and no need to compete) I'll stick to the stuff that other people can't get right. Mark

Agree, run it in hard. My fresh engine did 30x >300kw power runs after I drove it from first start to the dyno ~15min away. Give the rings a chance to bed in and see where you're at after some (loaded) driving. Mark

Please add me if there's a spot Terry I forgot to keep a lookout for this tech day. Mark

Heya MITCH, I have a 32R in Warrimoo, just up the road If ya want a hand with anything mechanical, PM me. Mark

Heya TOUGE, Kinda different but same idea, I have a 26 with 340rwkw@20psi on 98. Internally factory except the cams. I rebuilt it over christmas as she was pretty worn. Didn't bother boring the block as they were in tolerance, so I just had them honed, new rings, new bearings and a few reliability mods on the crank etc I didn't have the money to step up to a forged bottom end knowing I'd definitely exploit the stronger bottom end and force myself to buy a bigger fuel system, big single snail, then clutch, then bigger cooler etc etc So I stuck with OE bottom end purely to restrict my horsepower spending and redirect money to other areas to help reduce lap times and get racing (better shocks, half cage, new semis) I think if you're mechanically sympathetic and have a decent engine builder (who can measure properly), stick with OE and build to OE spec (don't deck unless it's out of spec, don't bore unless you have to etc) It'll keep money in your pocket for other go fast bits that'll make a direct difference to lap times Mark

Agree, I only use spriral/machine taps as they give a more accurate thread profile. I also find them stronger, but it's possible they feel that way as they're only produced by decent manufacturers. Back in my CNC machining days I could spin smaller spiral taps a few hundred rpm and get perfect finishes repeatedly (in a production CNC environment I could do hundreds of accurate threads with one tap). Mark

Lucky you! Great opportunity indeed. http://www.yahoo.co.jp/ is your friend Mark