GOD12A

Hi ZEEKH2B, I can't speak form experience, but is it possible to drill and tap the head studs further down into the block? This would spread the load across more block area (with more material above the intersection of stud to block) and possibly reduce the flex in the block. You would need to find/make longer studs, but since the block is the weakest point at the moment, not the studs, this may be worth investigating. The guys at RIPS in New Zealand play with some big HP RB's, they may have come across this issue previously. http://www.ripsracing.com/ Hope it helped. Mark

Heya KILA32, I get my clutches custom made. I currently run a 6 puck ceramic button plate with a 1400kg pressure plate on my 340kw 32R and like it. I don't consider it heavy, I drive it everyday and it won't slip even when driving like an idiot. The pressureplate WAS an Exedy heavy duty with 1040kg clamp load that we modified to 1400kg. You can adjust the clutch pickup at the pedal. Mark

Hi guys, I'm from Warrimoo (Blaxland) in the lower mountains. Not really Penrifff, but close enough to drive down to Cold Rock on a whim. Mark

How much for both front seat belts with buckles and where are you located? Must be decent condition Mark

Hi KILA32, Tell them it's for a Commo. It's just Dextron III trans fluid, not Nissan specific. They use this stuff in trucks and busses too. Mark

Heya guys, If you're looking for someone to swap turbos in Sydney who understands performance, drop me a PM Mark

Heya R34LINER, 340rwkw OE fuel pump, 550 injectors, Haltech Platinum Pro (MAP, so no AFMs) Mark

Heya R34LINER I'm confident to push the turbos till they stop making power, as long as they have a clean oil and coolant supply with no objects thrown in the compressor cover, they should hold together! We tuned up to 21psi and didn't find the turbos to be any restriction. We only stopped winding boost into her as the Haltech internal MAP sensor maxes out at 1.5bar (22psi) and I have no interest in a 3bar sensor as it'll tempt me to see how far she'll go (likely ending up with the OE bottom end destroying itself!) The current power output is fun and thrashable for now, so no use pushing the limits just yet Mark

Heya guys Just found this thread! I've been racing mountain bikes for ~20yrs and started working in my local bike shop when I was 12yo. Next to cars, bikes have been my longest 'life consistency'! I currently ride a Specialized Epic Expert for marathon and enduro work with a carbon/alloy Azzurri roadie for training duties (that hasn't seen any real training for aaages!) I've had a few bikes in my time and have competed at a reasonably high level for a bit. Now I'm just happy bashing around the dirt with mates and maybe the odd 100km/24hr team enduro for shitsngigglez. Any western sydney mtb riders? I CBF reading all 53 pages of thread Mark

Heya R34 LINER, I'm curious to know where did you get your info regarding the max power achievable with the -7s as there's a heap of variables involved! Dyno was a DynoDynamics in Standard shootout mode (6F with standard 15kph/sec ramp rate), so the number should be pretty reliable. Mark

Hey guys, Tomei Poncam Type-B Check my other post for more info on the build: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/?p=7142672 Mark

98 on stock rods/pistons/head (with Tomei PonCams) Mark

Heya ASPS91, I have a 32R on -7s with cams and Haltech (340kwatw). Happy to take you for a thrash. I'm in western Sydney, out near Penrifff. Mark

Hi CICATRIZ7, If you haven't found someone to look after your ATTESA yet, drop me a line, I might be able to help. Mark 0417 049 016

Hi Terry, I'm in for now I'll confirm closer to the date as I might be out that day with a tarmac rally client testing new suspension but don't want to miss this opportunity if I can help it. Ian helped me a lot when purchasing custom Simmons for my old RX3. He helped me fit the biggest rubber, while showing off maximum dish with enough room to fit the big calipers and rotors. Mark

Hi guys, Just thought I'd throw my 2c in here. I drive my tarmac rally prepped R32 GTR everyday and enjoy it. Stripped interior, no sound deadening, fixed back seats, 6pt harnesses, no AC, no stereo, big 6+4 pot brakes (that squeal when cold), 2way diff, 1400kg clutch pressure plate with ceramic buttons, 340kw with cams, TEIN Super Streets etc etc The fuel bill isn't too bad (Haltech Platinum Pro) after the cams went in (uses less fuel under 4500rpm, obviously uses more above) Sure it sucks more juice than a civic, but a civic isn't a GTR. Horses for courses. Mark PS: Keep in mind my old track spec Mazda RX3 rotary which I drive to work at least once a week. It idled at 2500rpm with a 10500 limiter, was over 100db, threw flames out the exhaust, had firm suspension, semi slicks, big squealy brakes when cold, 4 button ceramic clutch and a very tight LSD. Maybe I just enjoy driving 'generally uncomfortable' cars?! *shrugs*

Hi ERIK, I'd love to, but I'm not a paying advertiser of the forum just yet. Once I sell a few parts, I'll be making the investment in SAU. Mark

Hi all, ECUs are a personal choice, some are better than others for some things etc, but you're looking at 'the last 5%' in the real world. I have personally always run Haltech and suggested them for clients vehicles. My 32R had a Power FC and once swapped with a Platinum Pro plug and plag ECU, I found around 40kwatw, it used less fuel and was faster to drive on track due to the PFC's weird boost map (it made boost ramp up hard even though I had the throttle at 70%/ high revs, the rear would break loose killing lap times. Once I went to Haltech, I could feed boost depending on throttle) Hope it helped. Mark

Hi ERIK, If you're still having oil issues, drop me a PM as I have a product specifically designed to reduce the RB blowby issues. Mark

Heya guys, I use ThreeBond Engine Conditioner in the workshop and it works as good as the Suby stuff. I've been told the Suby stuff is just rebranded ThreeBond, but haven't confirmed. This stuff is available through the local Repco and Burson Auto Parts stores. Mark

Heya R33_RACER, Static balancing of small/big ends is pretty straight forward with a simple jig and a few hours of spare time. That's going the next step and one I didn't bother discussing as it was beyond the original question regarding simple balancing. I do agree rod balancing is worthwhile on performance engines, especially high revving examples. Mark

Heya guys, Massive (and multiple) breather tanks are overrated. If a tank is baffled correctly (and has an oil drain), it can easily be under 1L capacity and feed clean air to pre-turbo in a closed loop system. This makes mounting easier and forces some thought into the actual design of the baffles. I'm not about to wax lyrical about air/oil separators or throw in my 2c about RB oil control as it's all mentioned in this thread at some stage or another. But if you want to solve (or bandaid as best as possible) the issue and are in Sydney, PM me for a chat if you're bored. Mark

Heya MSR, I run a BNR32 with APP (Jap forged items) with 6pot fronts and 4pot rears with OEM master and they are balanced pretty well. I've always fitted bias valves in my past cars but didn't feel it necessary with the 32. Most people will say the cheaper Chinese brakes are crap, but unless you're looking for 'ten tenths', the so-called caliper flex is unnoticeable to the average human. If you decide to go down the R35 route, let me know, I'm in Sydney and might be able to help. Mark

Heya TEX, I balance every engine I touch. Not only does it allow a higher rev limit and better response, it'll also reduce the harmonic issues associated with an inline six further reducing the chance of cracking the oil pump gear. A balance should be ~$200 for a 6cyl, so it isn't 'stupid expensive'. If you disassembled the engine and marked every rod/piston position, you'd have a reasonably good chance of it being OK if you changed none of the rotating assembly. Otherwise buy/borrow a GOOD digital scale and match the rods/pistons yourself, will be cheaper than paying someone to dynamically balance your engine and better than just guessing. Hope it helped. Mark

Heya guys, Just a quick note from my experience. I remember from my rotary/N2O days, we used to run a separate fuel system for the N2O running straight methanol (N2O likes low fuel pressure at the nozzle, so EFI cars ran a low pressure system for N2O only) A reasonable amount of these engines would eventually let go when the tune was squeezed. I believe the different burn rate and temperature between the straight methanol and 98RON mixing inside the combustion chamber made tuning difficult. If you can imagine there's two different combustion stages when two very different fuels are mixed in the combustion chamber. Most of the 'big guys' in the rotor/N2O scene ended up using the same fuel for their EFI and N2O fuel systems in the end. Hope it helps. Mark