GOD12A

Heya PAUL, Interesting. Maybe I'll hold off buying any parts till it's stripped down I looked for my spare oil pressure gauge the other night and couldn't find it. I will be checking the factory gauge before blowing $10k on a build!! Thanks for the heads up on the possible mods. Goodluck with ya 32 Feels good having a car to thrash the fark out of and not bother breaking, unlike my previous rig!! Chat soon Paul, Mark

Heya BEER, I might drop DUNCAN a PM and see his thoughts. Thanks mate As for track day,. lemme sort this oil pressure issue, then it's game on! Heya PAUL, this is Steves car. I'm interested to why you think the engine has been built already? Steve never mentioned anything to do with internals?! I was using the std oil pressure gauge. It didn't drop to zero, but it has dropped to 1bar before I shut it off right away. Then once restarted, back up to normal again?! Got that motor for me still?? hahahaa Mark

Heya MARLIN I'm asking about external pumps as they seem to be a near ultimate fix to any RB26 oil pump issues. I should have given more background. My car is currently a rego'd thrash/track bitch with the intention of doing some tarmac in the future. I've recently picked up and oil pressure issue and can't afford to build a motor right now (Early RB26 crank collar required = bottom end build). However I can afford to add an external pump and mod the sump as I can move these mods between any engine and it allows me to drive/thrash the car, until I can afford to build the motor the way I want and start competing. I just don't want to back myself in to a corner by using an external pump in regard to competition rules. I'm sure you'd agree the external pump is as reliable (if not more) than a replacement pump, hence my question. It also saves me an immediate bottom end rebuild (to fit crank collar). Sorry for the long reply, just my current thought process! Mark

Thanks DARK!! Why read the regs?? It just shows how much everyone is actually cheating! hahahaa General regs state: With no additional info in Modern LMS I see an external pump (wet setup) as a reliability modification without any performance advantage. It saves me stripping my early RB26 crank out and modifying the crank collar and spending $$$ on a crazy oil pump. This way is just a sump mod, add external pump, say 3-4k all up, and it's done for ever. Unlike removing crank which means bottom end rebuild at the very least. Stuart, any comments? I believe reliability modifications can be discussed and agreed upon outside of supp regs? Mark

Heya all Techy Q External (wet) oil pump setups. Legal for tarmac? If so, who's using what setup? I currently have oil pressure issues and am looking at my options. The pressure drops suddenly, not to deathly metrics, but it drops from time to time with a bit of thrashing. I'd rather fix the issue before it drops for good. I have a spanking new N1 pump sitting here and I'm considering the Reimax gear upgrade. I have a 32GTR so I also need to mod the crank which means it's a good time to rebuild. I don't really wanna spend the money on a full build just yet so I'm considering modding the sump (bigger, baffled and gated), throw on an external pump (sell the N1 pump) and keep driving the nuts off it till engine bits end up on the road. Sorry for the long spiel. Purple monkey dishwasher. Mark

Heya JAZZA, How'd you go with this? I'm also considering an external oil pump and found this thread. Any progress? Mark

Heya all I've spent a bit of time researching the RB26 oil control issue now and I have a relatively basic fix for the root cause... Nerds, read on!! The oil pooling in the head issue is a byproduct of excessive crankcase pressure due to blow by. Many people have talked about adding a head drain back to the LHS (Left Hand Side/turbo side) of the sump for the oil to return. BUT, what is the root cause of the oil not flowing back down the factory galleries? A buildup of crankcase pressure will pressurise all the factory oil galleries (the RHS (Right Hand Side) gallery for positive venting and the LHS galleries for negative venting from crank windage). If all galleries are pressurised, oil cannot flow back to the sump and it accumulates in the head. Adding the oil return at the back of the head to the LHS of the sump allows the oil to find an alternative route back to the sump while the factory galleries are pressurised at high revs/boost by blow by. So I agree the oil return head mod will work (it's been done hundreds of times, so it obviously works!) BUT, lets move back a step and fix the root cause of the problem, not 'bandaid fix' it... The root cause is excess crankcase pressure. Some engine builders have used a crankcase vent back to the head, exactly the same head modification, BUT it breathes from the RHS (positive pressure side from crank windage). This adds another vent to the standard oil gallery vent on the RHS of the motor allowing the crankcase pressure to vent in to the head and allow the oil to return back to the sump via the factory galleries on the LHS. This sounds like a good fix for crankcase venting, fixes the 'oil pooling in head' issue and has also been done many many times so it definitely works. My theory uses the crankcase vent idea, but not venting to the back of the head. I assume anyone serious about fixing the oil control issue uses a Nismo style oil/air separator (tall/slim can that mounts near ABS) or catch can. If we plumbed a crankcase vent in the RHS of the sump above the oil level as per normal. Tee that hose in to both cam cover breathers (removing the PCV from the system), then across to the 'dirty air fitting' on the oil/air separator with the normal oil drain to rear turbo drain (direct to sump will also work) and top 'clean air fitting' plumbed to pre-turbo intake. This means you'll get the same advantage (if not better breath-ability) than venting into the rear of the head without any head modification (although a sump mod is required). My reasoning for 'better' breath-ability is when positive crankcase pressure flows up the external fitting to the rear head vent modification, any excess will have to find its way into the cam cover breathers and vent to oil/air separator anyways. My theory allows a balance of pressure between positive crank windage and head with any excess bypassing the cam covers flowing directly to the air/oil separator. Keep in mind, there will ALWAYS be excess crankcase pressure at high revs/boost from blow by. Anyone half serious about hitting the track will get the sump modified and this is a relatively cheap addition to the sump (plus the cost of an air/oil separator) that will save the head being removed and modified. At worst, maybe some cam cover baffles will need fitting which is easily done by anyone with basic tools. Did I explain my theory well enough? Any questions? Please critique; is there anything technically wrong with this setup? or, why is the head modification better? Thanks for your time Mark!

Heya GTSBoy! Good to see someone who actually knows what the fark they are talking about. Just to add, 'rifling' would be best designed for a small range in velocity. Low speed 'rifling' would disturb laminar flow at high velocity and high speed 'rifling' at lower velocities would be much less effective. GTSBoy, what do you do? I learnt most of my aero knowledge through a good mate who was an aerodynamicist at Williams F1 for a while. PM me if you're keen for a chat about nerd stuff! Mark

Heya NIZMO, Yep, happy to separate rims and tyres. KRISHY a few posts above seems to be keen for the rims. PM me your offer on the tyres and I'll chat to KRISHY about making up the difference. Have a good one NIZMO, Mark

Heya all, Just another pic of the Power FC and price drop to $900 Serial#: PFC GTR33L 020-2457 L-Jectro model for use with MAFs Mark

Heya GTRAAH, I got some of them floating around. Link me a pic of the exact ones to confirm. PM me where you're located. Mark

Heya KRISHY, Yeah I can split them, PM me your offer. Consider it'll cost me at least $50 to get the tyres removed too. PATTY_B $15 for delivery to 6147 Thanks guys Mark!

Thanks Brad, Beer Barons long motor is $17k! Great build, although a tad out of my budget Mark

Heya all 318kw Specs: 80000 km old RB26 with 135-140psi compression and already done a Targa Tassie before I got it. -7s on std dumps Noname 3" exhaust with hiflow cat Yellow Jacket coils on copper plugs Cam gears on std cams Nismo 550 injectors 19psi 98RON juice Haltech Platinum Pro w/boost control tuned by HITman (MAP tune, although MAFs were still plumbed up to standard airbox) Shitloads of blowby!! One 15min session at Wakefield dumped well over 500ml of oil. Matty (HITman) made this power with the standard airbox, MAFs and snorkel in place. When the airbox was cracked open and a screwdriver handle jammed in there, he saw past 330kw. There's a brand new filter element in there, so contrary to what I've read, my standard airbox was definitely a restriction. Now I just have to bandaid the blowby issue, remove the standard pre-turbo plumbing (MAFs and airbox) and see how long this thing lasts! Hahahaa This thing idles at 1100rpm on the dot, drives like an EcoTec V6 commo in traffic and will kick you in the nuts when told to. Mid corner throttle/power control is AWESOME and as you can see, the power is quite linear. Definitely a shedload of fun on a very simple (read: cheap) setup. HITman, 0417 259 391(Penrith, Sydney) Mark

Heya all I'm looking for a built RB26 (NOT RB26/30). Must have forged pistons, built properly (new bearings/seals etc) and have receipts for the bits I cannot see upon inspection. I don't mind if it's used, or new, BUT it must be built for reliability. A short or long motor would be great, although I'd consider a complete setup. It'll be running N1 turbos for racing, so ported heads and big single setups aren't useful. Prefer NSW, ACT, Vic or Sth Qld location. Hopefully something comes up before I have to rebuild my motor! I have money waiting, I'm not here to f**k chickens... Thanks for looking Mark!!

Heya all Turbos now sold. More parts in this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/371393-18x95-gtr-offset-with-good-rubber-gtr-powerfc-gfb-elec-boost-controller-rb26-coils/ Thanks for looking! Mark

Heya SKYLINE, From what I can see, the V35s run +30 offset standard, and these are +35, so there's a very good chance they'll fit nicely! More than happy to let you test fit to confirm. Mark

Heya all Boost controller gone, although I have a brand new GFB G-Force Electronic Boost Controller for sale in another thread for $270. Some more info on these turbos: 32Nismo (14411-06U00) Compressor Housing T04B Compressor Wheel T3 Compressor Wheel (mm) 44.6-60.1 Compressor Trim 62T Compressor A/R 0.42 Turbine Housing T25 Turbine Wheel T25 Turbine Wheel (mm) 41.7-53.0 Turbine Trim CD79 Turbine A/R 0.64 Cut back 15deg Comments As pair ~600ps As mentioned, they are in awesome condition and will happily refund your money if you're not convinced. Mark

Heya YTS That's what I was thinking. I have $1200 in my head as the tyres are pretty damn good and near new condition. But I'm open to negotiation, PM any offers guys SEAN This Power FC will only suit a R32/33 GTR, sorry. Mark

Heya all The rims are 9.5" wide as per the title. I put 8.5" in the description which is incorrect. It was 1am this morning Thanks to BLITZ-26 for the heads up, appreciated Mark

Heya TONTON! PM me a reasonable offer. I don't usually buy/sell wheels. You can see the tyres are worth some coin and have shitloads of tread left, plus the rims are barely used. Maybe I should get off my ass and ring a good wheel place to see what they'd sell me the same setup brand new and go from there? Mark

All parts are located near Blaxland, 10min past Penrith in Western Sydney. Lenso DC6 rims in black. Perfect used condition, not one scratch on them. 18" x 8.5", 35 offset, 114.3 x 5 PCD Fitted to 32GTR. They'll come with center caps shown in pics. They currently have Pirelli P Zero Rosso tyres on them in 245/40 with heaps of tread. These tyres are over $1k AUD on Tirerack.com (excluding delivery). They are German manufactured Pirellis, speed rated to 300kph with AA traction rating and A temperature rating. These are very good street tyres. They currently have 7mm tread depth with 8mm brand new, so there's heaps of good rubber left. The wheels weigh barely 1kg more when I compared them to R34GTR wheels running worn RE01 tyres. Considering the R34GTR rims are forged by BBS, these are pretty light! $Reasonable offers? Will separate rims and tyres if buyers can be found for both. **BRAND NEW** GFB G-Force electronic boost controller. Specs on the GFB site: http://www.gfb.com.a...-by-for-g-force 6 boost memories. Open/closed loop. 50psi capable. Comes with trigger button for scramble/overboost. Digital boost gauge. Overboost warning etc etc RRP$350 The box was only opened to get pics; never fitted, played with or fondled. $280 6x RB26 standard coils from 32GTR (I've been told they're the same as 33GTR, 34GTR and 260RS). Used, but in fine working condition. They handled 290kw on 16psi, but I've turned up the wick past 20psi and didn't want to pay for another tune if spark broke up on the dyno with the standard coils so I went aftermarket. $100 Apexi Power FC with hand controller to suit 32GTR and 33GTR. Instruction manual included. Within 3yrs old, so it has current firmware. Tuned to 290kw with 16psi on -7s, 550cc injectors and drives great. Works fine, but I've upgraded to a Haltech Platinum Pro. $1000 Thanks for looking! Mark

Heya all Boost controller gaaawn!! Still have turbos left. PRICE DROP to $1000 for turbos. As mentioned, if you're unhappy with the condition of the turbos, I'll refund your money no problems. I know these turbos are in great condition. From what I understand they are <3000km old, but I cannot prove it as they came as spares with a car I bought. They are definitely in awesome mechanical condition! Mark