nsanity

I said with a very complex alarm, and a very complex install - and this was to drive away with your car, not put it on a forklift/truck. Agreed Alarms are a deterance - nothing more, they will not stop a professional determined thief - ever. The ultimate in car security is to be in a niche. 1. You want a car that has basic enough security to keep out joyriders - most basic immobilisers do this. 2. But you also want a car that isn't valuable enough for the professionals to bother with it. 3. You also don't ever want to put yourself in a position where a professional want your car because of something you or it did to him (i.e vendetta theft). Sadly GTR's do not fit the 2nd criteria. They are valuable and they are worth stealing. At the end of the day, like i said, its a compromise between living with your car's security and keeping it safe, how far will you go? Will you take your ECU with you? will you take your Steering wheel with you? Will you bolt your car to the ground?

i made a call to a dunlop "super" tyre centre today, enquiring about the rough price and what they thought of the performance of the Dunlop Sport SP MAXX's. They told me not to worry about it - didn't even give me a price. However they then proceded to recommend the following Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 - $937 per tyre @ 255/35/R18 Pirelli NeroZero - ~700 per tyre @ 255/35/R18 I then turned around and told him the following I used to race a GTR XU-1, i used A032R's, which at the time, was basically a road legal slick - CAMS allowed and recommended them for Group 3J. I was paying ~300 a tyre, and whilst it was only 205/60/R13 - it was certainly no where near almost $1000 a tyre, and i will guarantee you here and now it out-performed this michelin thing in every aspect bar treadlife. Unless you can convince me that the tyre will wear 60,000 km and grip like god - you will never convince me, nor any other sane individual to spend that kind of money on a street tyre. Slicks and Gatorbacks, sure - Street tyres never. His reply, its a premium tyre.

Talk to a suspension engineer, tell them what you plan on throwing your car at, and just how much you want to spend. In turn he will tell you what you need to do in regards to springs, shocks, ride height, wheels and tyres for you to stick to the road. The answer is never uniformly - lower it 3inches mate.

Just had mine done at Instant tint yesterday. I had tint on there - whilst good application - dickson didn't like it, only 16% light passthrough. I had the old stuff removed and new stuff (35%) put on for $420. Also - tell them NOT to put a sticker on your car... ffs. I own a Turbo-Charged, Japanese Imported Vehicle with a 3 inch exhaust, Mag wheels and tail-lights that are almost instantly recognisable from a very long way away. Why the f**k do i need any more help in getting "random" police license inspections?

Lower doesn't necessarily mean better handling...

For 270 rwkw you need a bigger turbo, the AFM, Fuel pump and the other mods you've listed - and a good tune. My understanding is that you will still have a very responsive car with those power levels, if done correctly.

What were they up against? what was the criteria? i'll poke around and see if i can find the article online. Edit - interesting, it seems that they (the T1R's) were rated significantly lower than the dunlop's at the review and test size. http://planetsoarer.com/06tyre/06finalscores.jpg is the image. http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:ovJR9Nq...t=clnk&cd=2 is the google cache.

bump - anyone?

thanks sewid - however it must be really early (as in my brain isn't functional yet) - what month/year is 9308?

Any installer who makes this claim is either lying, or it hasn't happened yet. There is nothing an Alarm installer can do to stop someone from towing your car, nor doing anything more than delaying (although with a good setup/install - you probably cost them upto 30 minutes) a decent car thief. Talk to Chris Rogers, or any other of the recommended guys on this forum. No car is unstealable, it sucks, but its the truth.

I feel for the guy, i do - however i also know he has learnt his lesson - he will take adequate precautions to something like this happening again. some lessons are hard.

i'm echoing this same problem, using Firefox 1.5.0.7 - about check IE. *shudders* say prayers for me! editing from IE7 RC1 - nope, no skin selector here either.

surely people let you put deposits for the turbo, that is reimbursed when they recieve your exchange item that is in good working order? I'd call them up and ask.

i can't answer your tiptronic question for certain, but i would imagine so - however i'd assume that point (being that skylines are performance orientated) would be redline, or a smidge past it. As i understand it, 4wd in Skylines is actually not what most people think 4wd is. GTR's are rwd till they lose traction, the majority of the time, Attessa will have all the power directed at the rear wheels. Yes you will lose some power from the transfer case and whathave you, but we're not talking a ford 9 inch or something stupid - the benefits would easily outweigh the negatives.

hardly. My rims being different widths, my tint and the fact that a smidgeon of oil was leaking from the pressure sender was enough for them to tell me to go fix it.

i haven't heard any comments about the falkens, nor is their website uptodate. Can anyone compare the T1R's with a 595 Federals?

Whilst i own a GTS-T, i think you'll find they have similar figures, just lower power/torque outputs. Economy, particularly for the turbo models - but also for NA, is entirely dependant on your right foot. You mention being able to hold the car in gear with a tiptronic semi-auto, which instantly tells me you probably need to add 20 - 50% onto any figure most people will give you. Comparing the car to a commodore is relatively simple. It handles light years better, a lot of this is to do with weight, but also in the suspension design. Less weight means it brakes better too. Comfort in my R33 GTST is superb from an interior quality standpoint (I'd say it beats the last model executive commodore, and i have an R33 S1 interior), ride is slightly on the rough side (but significantly more responsive) of normal - however i have an aftermarket kit. Regarding conversion to turbo - don't bother, don't wreck and devalue the car, sell it and buy a turbo model. My honest opinion however is, just wait it out with what you have now, learn to drive (track days, driving course's and sheer kilometres), come back in 3 years or so and look at the option then.

noted - but it may be handy to list all the things he could be looking for on the vehicle.

You get what you pay for. For the price, in comparison to other offerings, they are amazing - $285 for a 255/35/R18? unbelievable. I only mentioned them because that is currently what is on the car now, they grip reasonably well, but i've driven far superior tyres grip wise - noise wise too.

just adding that my compliance plate is actually green, not purple.

If you want to know just how fast your car be gone - with or without an alarm, talk to someone who installs them for a living. I was looking at a roughly $600 alarm, 3 point immobilisation. I commented that there is nothing that can truly make your car "unstealable", and he agreed - admitting that to a good thief, even with the best install he could do (4 - 6 hours), it would only hold him up 15 mins before he would drive your car away. Chris Rogers will probably echo similar statements. And failing that, there is always "on the back of a truck", which takes all of about 5 minutes if you're quick. It is about deterence, you need to come to a balance as to what you can live with day to day (why i don't just take my ECU out) and the lengths you will go to deter people from stealing your car. And yes, the cost insurance is mostly driven thanks to anyone and everyone under the age of 25, and the inordinate amount of fraudulent claims that are filled every day. All that said - My car has a 2 point alarm system (wired through the ECU power in - so effectively if any point is breached, the ecu has no power - no ecu = no go), with a rolling pager code, as well as being comprehensively insured.

nothing that isn't absolutely hilarious (if you're drunk) and incredibly unlikely... lets say hole in the petrol tank?

a poorly tuned ECU, just like a carby - can and will run rich as hell and obliterate fuel economy. I have ~194kw at rw, with similar mods (i have a PFC tho), and i see 300km/45L (15L/100) only if i thrash the living crap out of it. Its all in the tune mate.

according to the engineer when i had my car certified, technically the AVCR is legal, as all it does it slightly alter the amount of boost you get. The same effect can be given (albiet to a lesser extent) by driving in Blue Mountains one day, and Sydney the next (elevation / air temp) apparently.

Hey guys, i've got one of these in my R33 GTS-T with mild mods (stock turbo and AFM though). I'm just wondering at just what they can do. From brief reading around the web, i've noticed that they can be used as a rudimentary form of traction control (speed based boost limiting), and many "quick and dirty" guides mention that there is quite a few settings that people who don't know what they are doing can make it perform terribly. I currently have 2 settings, A and B. The main difference between the two that i can see is that A cap's boost at about .6 bar, and B at about 0.9 bar. Is it worth getting this thing tuned by someone with a dyno/knows what they are doing? what benefits could i expect? how much should i look at paying for it? I also have a PowerFC, which was tuned by ICE down in melbourne, i have no knowledge if the AVCR was tuned at the same time however.