nsanity

just to add to this, i recieved the paperwork in the mail yesterday, very professional and has all the right marks/numbers on it. Time and $$ spent on it, is well worth it and if you have had your mods done right, very painless.

I wouldn't. 220kw is about the limit for a front wheel drive. Even prior to that you start to see hideous amounts of torque steer (plant your foot, go left!). Its well known in the UK where they have many "hot" front wheel drives sold from manufacturers. RWD and adjustable AWD for the win.

can someone run this past the check for me? ECR33005468

Stupid question i know, but i want it to stay on, and i don't want to ruin the paint. Just got my Engineer's Certificate yesterday and want to apply the Tyre Placard supplied, its laminated. Ideas?

i used the term "money well spent". Which is different. I'm quite happy to pay extra so long as there noticable benefits to be gained. Alot of praise for the Toyo's however (i have been doing a bit of thread reading...). Has anyone got anything bad to say about them? Does anyone prefer the falkens?

in thoughts over lunch i remembered a more accurate statement. If you drive you car like a top grade race winning car, maintain it like one. This holds true for anything mechanical - the harder you push machinery, the greater the maintenance required will be to keep it running.

I bought mine in Melbourne, drove it back to Canberra 2 weeks ago, then did an down and back again to Melbourne last weekend. The car is fine. If anything, they were better designed and purpose built for it (long distance driving/touring) over say a commodore/falcon. As others have said - keep your car reasonably maintained and you have the same chance if not better (imho) of getting to melbourne and back as any other new car owner. oh and Fuel consumption will only ever be an issue when that little boost needle creeps into the positive numbers

I'm curious about this too. I almost invariably only ever get 45L into the tank, and people keep telling me its a 65L tank (R33 GTS-T), i just don't like the idea of "running out" of fuel - no real wives tale behind it, just walking sucks really. Can someone confirm there is actually a fuel light on an R33 GTS-T series 1 dash, and that it should work with a PFC and bosch fuel pump - odd question i know. I get usually 340ish km out of the 45L (roughly 13.3L/100km) out of driving about canberra for the week - although i have got it set on 10psi and well i'm impatient. On long, boring, speed-camera infested, anal-police patrolled humourless highways, i see about 500km for the same fill - roughly 9L/100km - still same boost setting, and includes minor moments of overtaking.

qft. Get a good exhaust shop to make you up an exhaust from turbo back, better still get one to make one from cylinder head back - they will want to know things like cam timing and turbo specifics, and it will probably cost a fair whack - But you'll have the best performance you are going to get on the street. Also remember how people think. If you're driving around a show pony that just screams "book me" (or "race me" - they are the same thing) you are always going to get more hassles from your local law enforcement department. You can have a performance exhaust with a cat, you just have to go about it the right way - like most things in life.

These laws are in place because too many < 20 year olds end up wrapped around a tree, or planted into someone on the wrong side of the road - often not only injuring/killing themselves, but passengers and innocent bystanders as well. Insurance companies have known this for years - see premiums < 25 (or is it 30 now?), i'm shocked it took the government this long to work it out. As to your original question - No. The car will run like shit, and then there is the whole car model/engine designation to deal with. You COULD get the car engineered (lol - twice) but thats an assload of hassle.

I'm up for new rears shortly on my R33 GTS-T got 18x9.5 rims on the rear, currently with some thin-wearing Hankook Ventus 104's on it. I'll need new rears in the next 2000km i figure, so i had a chat to the local recommended tyre place here in Canberra he basically gave me 3 options - these are all 255/35/R18's btw) Hankook Ventus 104's at ~285 ea Falken 452's at ~320 ea Toyo T1R's at $370 ea Price isn't a huge issue, what i want is money well spent. I currently have 235/40/R18's on the front, in the hankook Ventus 104's, but i'd probably be looking at changing them in the next 10000 or so km, and i'd go the brand/make i just put on the rear. Anyone with any experience with these 3 tyres? last time i compared performancish tyres i was driving a torana with 13in rims, so i'm a bit out of date. Key points i'm looking at ~Grip ~Wet Grip ~Life ~Noise Roughly in that order.

i just got quoted 370 ea for that size here in canberra. I'd say no

This is for an Engineers Certificate, NOT a roadworthy/blue/pink slip. My car is modified beyond standard Light Vehicle Modifications rules, hence it has been certified by an Automotive Engineer to say that the car still complies with the relevant ADR's. I went to Dickson for the inspection - and yes, they are hard to VERY hard on you. My advice for anyone going there is to be quiet, dress respectably (not suit/tie but a collared shirt wouldn't go astray), never argue only enquire. Wash the car a day before (not the same day - it looks like you're trying then) and for god sakes keep the thing off boost anywhere near them.

John Wilson AKZ Engineering www.vehicleengineering.com.au

450

I have Type R speakers all round, and a Cadence 5 channel amp. My amp is mounted on a removable board where the usual flap is seperating the boot from the battery.

John Wilson, AKZ Engineering. Non-standard Rims/Tyres, 18x8.5, 18x9.5 rears Non-standard Fuel Delivery System (Fuel Pump etc) Non-Standard Exhaust Electronic Boost controller FMIC Non-standard Coilovers Body Kit Strut Brace Non-standard steering wheel He measured the track of the vehicle, applied stickers, measured suspension height/travel, inspected parts, installation, checked id numbers, discussed future mods and how annoying Dickson pits is. He basically went for a lot more, for piece of mind - basically if i get pulled over, i hand them the certificate, and everything is covered. Took about an hour.

The car is now very very engineered. I can bring my boost controller out now... woo.

my understanding is that it comes down to the track. if you alter the track too significantly then you increase the load on the axles.... thats bad. my wheels are offset, i should be fine.

nm. you've got NSW plates - this one has ACT ones.

Offftopic i know - tony you don't happen to work out by the airport there do you? I swear i've seen those wheels on a car out there....

I've decided (after words with my old man and the insurance company) to get a certificate. Mostly due to the fact that once an engineer has sworn by it, no-one can touch you. Anything else i should get engineered on the car at the same time? Current mods are FMIC PowerFC (if i can get this engineered i would be so happy) AVCR2 Boost Controller Bosch Fuel Pump Coils

honestly man, when you get the cash, get a garage to build you a turbo back exhaust that is legal and performance orientated - saves a ton of time. The exhaust on mine is *magic* - noticably different note to most skylines i've heard, quieter that any i've heard at idle, and louder than my mates at full noise. sounds beautiful imho.

I just got quoted ~350-400 to get a certificate for the wheels. Considering there is probably ~$3000 in wheels and tyres, and i'm likely to move states again in 6-12 months i'll probably just do that. He said to me that it would be no problem (initially he said those sizes should be an option - thus fine, but the placard didn't agree and well Inspector Kevin wasn't happy). I'll look into possibly getting other things done to it engineered as well at the same time - depending on cost. I'd rather have the vehicle 110% legal, you know in case of an accident.

I took the car into Dickson today for Vehicle Inspection. I failed on 1. Engine Oil Leak (Slightly leaky Oil Pressure Sender - $260??? meh i'll pay it) 2. Window Tint (16%, limit is 35% - bugger) 3. Non Matching Rims/Tyres So what do people think. I have 18x8.5's on the front, and 18x9.5's on the rear. They are nice wheels and the tread on the tyres is still good (~60-70%). The guy said i need to get stock ones on, or get the car engineered, or prove that it was an option (and provide the necessary documentation). How much is it likely to cost for engineering? will i need to do anything else? Is it going to cause me more problems? Also, who can recommend a place for tinting - i need it done in the next week or so, Mac's in Queanbeyan is full till 28th sept. Thanks in Advance guys.