BHDave

Front calipers sold pending payment. Cold fusion, let me know if you are still interested in the rears and i'll grab some photos. Cheers Dave

Front calipers now $150 Rear caliper and rotor inc pad now $250 Rear handbrake assembly $50

Approximately 130-140km at a guess. I was advised when i bought it that it had around 100k but the odo was gone from the half cut. Timing belt hadn't been swapped so it sounded reasonable. I swapped belt and water pump. It was in my r32 for about 2.5 years, serviced every 5k initially when it was still a daily. In the last year i only really did track days with it so it was serviced after every track day (every 2 months or so). Removed from the car as i crashed it (that's where the dented sump came from). The engine still ran fine. Had after market turbo, injectors, cams and coils which were removed. Stock cams reinstalled. Comp test was done with the after market cams before removal from the car.

bump $700 post Christmas sale

8 hour daily commute! eep.

The inlet flange of the 2835 is t3 as opposed to t2 on the 2871 so the 2871 doesn't fit the manifold. The HKS GTRS does have an rb specific version though. The 2835 is good for around 270rwkw with good response

2835, because it'll fit. And they are a nice thing on an rb25. 2871 is too much of a pain to fit due to the different flanges

You are missing something, you missed where i said discopotato.

SAU dynoday Discopotato It was on woefully low boost from memory, i did suggest giving it a bit more at the time Still not having much luck liz....

Talk to heasmans. You already have a very good base shock, a revalve to suit a higher spring rate is reasonably cheap, as are the higher rate springs. You already have the height adjustment via circlip, about all you'll be missing out on is a rose jointed top mount and base height adjustment. A move to monoflex is really just a step sideways with a higher price tag. I do think they are a nice bit of kit though.

I agree with ronin. You are on some weird shit roy, and i want some.... Can we go back a step? What size semis are you trying to fit to your nugget, and how mangled are you willing to make your guards?

An adjustable upper control arm or a set of offset replacement bushes that can be installed in the stock arm. Whiteline, Nolathane and Noltec all offer the bushes. There's a group buy on the Noltec adjustable upper arm replacements through Sydneykid atm Or you can get turn buckle style adjustable arms.

do you have adjustable sway bars in it? If so soften the rear a touch. If not, then yes, a softer rear spring will help. You can also play with more rear toe in. As far as the adjustable damper goes; you are adjusting both bump and rebound at the same time so you need to find a happy medium. I generally would go somewhere around 10-11 front and rear and pretty much leave it or go up, but not down. I tend to think if you go too soft on the damper thinking that it will soften that end of the car then you aren't controlling the spring properly, particularly higher spring rates, which can lead very similar issues to what you are describing...

it's either a 3037 or a 2835. And the sticker on the box says 3037 so i beleive it. I'd trust the description and get it at that price to be honest. With the current exchange rate i reckon you could add another grand to the price. 3037 is good for 300rwkw or a touch over.

No one has popped a stocker lately and needs a cheap replacement? ok Price drop to $800 It's freaky that engines are worth less than boxes these days....

Thats the 38mm gate? The genuine hks is no better. I've forgotten the number of times i had that bastard of a thing off and on and cursed the design. I actually had issues with the outlet though, never the inlet. Get the faces machined flat and install some studs on the manifold. Get some narrow nuts (12 max, 11 preferably) and a 1/4 inch drive socket set with wobble attachment. I ended up buying a sheet of exhaust gasket maker and made my own as the thing was off so often. I never had leaks. But the head/manifold and gate outlet leaked after every track day....

if you can find a gear i have the rest for the cost of postage. (so under $10 at a guess) Are the gears still available from nissan?

You're thinking along the lines of the previous owner of my car with the battery placement. Any particular reason for putting the switches on the tunnel and not in the centre console?

if nothing is holding it then rattle gun as stated above. Alternately, remove the driveshaft and hub as a unit and put it all in the bench vice.

when the car is dead cold start it and feel around for the leak. You have about 1 minute before it gets a bit too warm With a high mount you have the manifold-turbo gasket, manifold-gate and turbo-exhaust. It'll be a big leak so very easy to find.

I've got a navara drive if you need it. Bought it as a spare when i did my conversion. pm me and we can sort something out.

they are both normal thread. I've done them with half inch drive breakers before, but the first time is always the hardest Replace the breaker bar and try again. (done that as i broke one) Weld your socket to a long bit of thick walled gal pipe (done that on my previous car as i couldn't crack it with the pipe over the breaker trick) Or failing that get a 3/4 drive rattle gun. (makes very short work of it and cheap on ebay) Soak it in wd40 over night before trying again.

They come with rubber bushed tops. You can pay extra for pillow ball tops. If you are getting softish street biased coilovers like super streets then i would stick with the bush.

Hi all. I have my old rb25 for sale. Was running when removed from the car, compression tested between 150 and 152 across all 6 cylinders. Does not come with turbo, mounts, accessories, wiring, injectors, coils or ignitor. Has a dented sump but i can supply a spare if needed. In campbelltown NSW. Pick up preferred, though i can arrange freight at the buyers expense.

bump