BHDave

They are worth having i think, but it should be the last thing you get. Pads, lines, bigger rotors all improve the braking performance. The master cylinder stopper only improves the performance if the fire wall is so soft you can't actually apply enough pressure to find the brakes limits (if that makes sense). Thats not an issue in an r33. Some guys reckon it improves feel, i couldn't feel the difference myself.

shouldn't be too hard, we live within a few km of each other if Gary is in Campbelltown. Though in all honesty mine is nothing to write home about atm. I'm looking at a ghetto ex gate mod to the factory manifold which should (hopefully) solve all current problems, and probably introduce some new ones....

This is one of the warmest mornings we've had in campbelltown all week!

Was it making the noise before the pads were changed? If not then i suspect it's an install issue. So the next lot of questions; were the shims reinstalled, were the retaining pins and clips properly installed, have the pins or other bits fallen out?

Ah! Was it your car that was down there last week? My mate was in there and saw the anti surge mod and asked me whether they were available for 3071's as it looked like the same turbo as mine. So the 6 million dollar question, do you have boost control issues with the .8 IW turbine housing? I also use photo bucket, upload, click the link IMG text box under the thumbnail and paste it in the reply box.

1) the knock sensors on the rb25 are part of the (i suppose you'd call it) body loom. They still plug into the engine loom at one of the plugs at the front of the plenum though. So i just cut all the tape off the rb25 body loom and found that the knock sensor wiring could just be removed from the rest of the loom (no cutting or anything) and plugged in. Easy. 2) I kept the factory cooler. Originally i didn't have a separate cooler but now i do. I actually like the factory cooler as it also helps to bring the oil temp up from cold as the water temp rises quicker than the oil temp. oil temp also tends to get higher than water temp even with a dedicated cooler so it still helps. 3) The wiring is a difficult one to explain. I don't work in colours as i'm colour blind which doesn't help a lot of people. I traced each wire into the rb20 dash plugs and referenced the rb20 pinout diagram, then did the same for the rb25 dash plug. Joined up the obvious matching wires, ran some new ones for power (as the rb25 gets all it's power feeds from under the dash but the 20 gets it from the engine bay), stripped the wiper loom out of the 20 loom and used that, can't remember what else, it's been too long....

woops, the joy of flaky connections...

I'll drop in and say hi if i can make it out. I can also offer nonsensical advice which, if you can under stand it, may knock milliseconds off your times, along with my usual "more boost, harden the fu(k up, and brake later then you really should" I'm working in the morning but will try and get away as early as possible and make it to the track (seeing as it's only 15 minutes away) Baron. s13 ftw, though what turbo is on it? looks like more boost is needed

Good man. It's been 2 years since i read it and it went when i sold mine. So i was half right, which is about 50% more right than usual

depends on offsets really. The axis ones look a bit like NS01's and drift tecs which do come in decent offset and are reasonably light and reasonably cheap too.

You would be correct There is a shim either side of the center. You put a thinner one on one side and a thicker one on the other. The measurements part i don't know which is why mine will go to a specialist one day soon to be done.

i used the rb20 section of loom and stripped the knock sensors out of the rb25 one and ran them separately. I think i had to enlarge the eyelet for the alternator, but otherwise it fit up. I also installed the rb20 oil pressure sender. edit, didn't see your second question; The r33 uses one big dash plug, the r32 has a couple of smaller ones. Probably finding the tutorial by predator will give you a good handle on that side of the conversion but there is a fair bit of tracing, marking and soldering required.

They are obviously still wrong. Your car is sitting at pretty close to stock height on the lowest setting. Just confirm it if you like, around 380 center to guard is stock, you look like you are around 360-370 still. You can do a few things, 1 get a shorter strut (which is the better solution), 2, get a softer spring so it sags more under the weight of the car (i'd avoid this option as you'll be smashing bump stops) , 3, maintain your spring rate in a 50mm shorter spring and use a helper spring to keep the coils captive which should drop it another 30mm or so (while losing 30mm of shock travel in bump). or a mix of 2 and 3, slightly softer shorter spring with helper to drop it even further. I'm assuming these aren't base height adjustable btw.

Good result so far nick, particularly with so little boost. Expect a hell of a lot more midrange once you wind in some more.

i know there are more clicks as i've had these shocks myself. I'm only pointing out what the manual says, and that is don't go past 16. It's your call whether you want to believe me or not.

Hi guys, There seem to be a few qualified and apprentice boiler makers and such floating around in here so i figure someone would know someone who can cut a hole into my stock manifold and weld on a bit of steam pipe properly so it won't crack up once it see's the track. I have ongoing boost control issues with the internal gate 3071 and just can't be stuffed (and cant really afford) to redo all the piping again as well as shell out for a decent steam pipe manifold and gate. cheers Dave

They don't just keep clicking guys. turn them anti clockwise until they stop. you are at zero. Count up from there. The manual on the aus model super streets does state that it's 16 clicks, to go any further is doing potential damage (or words to that effect).

once you have a tube full of brake fluid you aren't really going to suck anything back in but brake fluid if you have a decent seal. Thats why the manual states to immerse the end of the tube in a jar of fluid. Once you pump the pedal twice you've blown all the air out of the tube and you are at worst sucking up a bit of old fluid. By the time you flush all the new stuff through until you are seeing clean fluid you are only sucking back clean fluid. Not saying to try it but in theory you could bleed your own brakes this way with no one opening and closing the nipple. Everyone's got their own variation on it. Whats the point of pumping the pedal to get pressure in the system btw? as soon as you crack the bleed nipple it's gone and so when you depress the pedal it's just like you didn't pump it at all. I do a bit of a mix of both. It works, i'm sure all of the other ways you guys do it work as well. It's not rocket science to get the bubbles out if the system is up to scratch. Back to the OP's concerns, has anyone considered the master cylinder may not be up to the task of bigger calipers all round? I could be totally wrong but i have no idea of the relative sizes of the cylinders.

I love how you imply i don't know what i'm talking about after you have clarified that he isn't a track newbie and so actually validating my point....

yeah, but in perspective, how much would it cost you to get a set of calipers to fit the bigger rotor? 800 from memory for rotors and brackets, can re use your existing pads and calipers. and you get a 28mm bigger rotor.

That was my second car. love the shape, hate the rest of it to this day. i bought a non turbo "sport" the engine lasted a year, then i got it converted to turbo, then maintenence. It cost me 20k on top of the 8.8k purchase price by the time i sold it 4 years later. On the plus side i had to get fairly handy with the tools in that time 1st car was an 81 sigma, 4 shades of red, beautiful tan velour interior, 2L 5 speed. i rebuilt the engine in the garage with my dad when i was 17. It was a good car for most of it's life, but the last rego cost me 1600 by the time i got tyres and shocks for it and i could only sell it for 1k. 3rd car was the r32gtst. bugger all maintenence costs in the near on 6 years i've owned it, almost all money spent has been mods (well up until this last year since track work has started to take it's toll). Best car i've owned. It'd still be a 160rwkw stock turboed street car if it hadn't spat the turbine. It was a fun (dangerous) thing to drive back then with knackered teins and a set of caster rods....

can you still lock up the wheels on the track with your current setup? Are the brakes consistent throughout a session or does it start to fade towards the end? If both are ok then you don't really need to upgrade If the brakes are fading towards the end of a session then you need to look at fluid first, then more suitable pads. If you reeeally want to spend a bit of money the cheapest upgrade for you will be some of the 324mm rotor and offset bracket kits from unique.

wire it in, leave everything set to zero. drive to the tuner. It intercepts some signals and splices into others so switching it off or unplugging it means your car won't run.

wow! 2k for a whole second! so where's the other half of the story? mods, experience, track condition, alignment changes, tyres still the same etc etc Kinda useless if it was their second time at the track don't you think?

cef's and laurels are worth 12k stock over here..... not exactly cheap and in all honesty they need a cage or they flop around badly. Otherwise, they are great cars. I'd love to get a laurel for a daily to be honest.