BHDave

Oop's, my bad. Posted without spotting that there was a second page and the backpressure issue had already been addressed. I was thiniking along the lines that if the turbo is working against a stupid amont of backpressure then to generate boost it will first have to overcome that issue. Then to generate positive pressure over that then you are essecially haveing to spin the turbo a lot faster than normal to generate say 12psi. As the turbo has to work harder to make that pressure then the wastegate needs to be held shut for longer which the weaker spring is unable to do. And so the EBC is working it's arse off. There'd also be spooling issues that have been ruled out also. To me a stronger spring/ higher preload is just masking the underlying problem and will eventually lead to a much bigger problem. Unless the original springs aren't quite what they're being sold as?

Definately sounds like a back pressure issue. try dropping the exhaust off the back of the front pipe and it should make a massive difference. Then check the cat/mufflers to make sure none of em have collapsed.

Yep, easy job. Just need a socket set and a phillips head to remove the boot trim. You may need someone to push down on the hub in order to slip the old struts out and slide the new ones in. All 4 corners took me less than 2.5 hours including lunch break, 2 hours solo with a mate over for lunch who stood on the hub to make life a little easier when i did the fronts.

It's probably the pump if its a grinding as thats the first thing to run dry when you get a p/s leak and thats what damages it. Previous owner may have run it dry at some stage then just topped it up. If it still works then i'd just get it checked next time you drop it in for service as it's easier to swap he thing over than rebuild yourself. If it's a more of a groan then it's more likely due to the suspension geometry changing as you turn the wheel and slowly loading up one side or the other. But you'll only hear this if you are stationary.

pins 41,42,51,52 are connected to the cas signal. Theres also a power and earth in there somewhere but i dont think they are a direct feed, more likely shared between a number of sensors. You probably dont want to switch the signal wires as you may end up with a rough running car.

You can reco the current pressure plate with a heavier spring and replace the friction plate. Problem is that a button clutch, even a sprung centre will be a bitch to drive in traffic and a full face organic will die quite quickly at your current power levels and when used for drift, particularly if your fond of popping the clutch to get the rears spinning. Have a look at www.xclutch.com.au for a few more options as in your situation i'd be looking at using a multi button for better drivability with the added bite that a button would give.

What sort of power are we talking about and do you use the car on the strip or in traffic? How much of a nasty clutch can you put up with? We need more info. That said. OS Giken twin plate will probably fit the bill but cost a small fortune. They are a good clutch though with good drivability and excellent clamping force without massive pedal effort.

As you've checked the coils i'd reset the ecu and then go for a drive and then check the error codes as it's free and easy. Then start swapping things, possibly coils, ignitor, afm crank angle sensor. As a how to: disconnect battery, turn on ignition and hold down brake pedal for about a minute to make sure there is no chage left in the system. Reconnect the battery. This will have removed any fault codes from the ecu memory so if you check now it will read 55 (all clear) Take the car for a drive around the block (10minutes or so just to make sure everything is up to temp) access the ecu in the passenger foot well and on the bottom of it there is a little knob with a flat head screwdriver slot in it. turn on the ignition but dont start the car. Turn the knob fully clockwise (i think) and leave it there for 5 secs or so, then turn it back full the other way. You are now in diagnostic mode. Slow flashes of the led next to the knob are 10s (10,20,30..) and fast flashes are 1s. It also flashes the exhaust temp warning light on the dash. error codes here (Thanks Skyline_boy) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35733 hopefully this can give some direction in what to look at. I am currently experiencing something similar but have not yet solved it but have swapped pretty much every major component with a signal to the ecu that varies significantly with revs and gotten to the point now where i'm looking at the ignition loom. Let us know how you go as it all adds to the knowledge base of the forum. Good luck Dave

Reset the the ecu and went for a drive. now only getting 21 and 34 so that rules out the cas completely now. So looks like it's in the wiring. I hate chasing wires.... So now to try another ignition loom. and then check for continuity back to ecu plug if that doesn't fix anything. Atleast i'm making some headway in what the problem isn't.

Checked for continuity between the cas plug and the ecu plug, all good. Checked the cas ground and it's good. Has power too which is nice. Unplugged the knock sensors from the loom. Gave the car a nice midrange kick but it is probably pinging its ass off. Didn't fix the prob anyway so that'll be getting plugged back in staight away though i'll be keeping an eye on it in the future as a possible power sucker. So that leaves the ignition issue so i'm stumped. Might try swapping the ignition loom cos mines a bit crispy and do some continuity checks and the like when i have a bit of time. Anyone else have a prposal

Now i'm really getting the shits with it. Have now swapped the cas and had a look at the plug. Plug seems fine, what am i supposed to be looking for? Continuity test between the plug and ecu pin ins? Also did a diagnostic and it is giving me 11, 21 and 34 which is CAS (which really shits me), Ignition signal ( what about it, that doesn't really tell me much, got me stumped unless it's due to the cas playing up) and Knock sensor (I'll play with that once i get the cas and ignition issues sorted). I have a feeling the ignition sig is due to the emanage being in the way but i pulled the ignition loom out yesterday and it made no difference to the car. Checked vacuum lines they are all ok. Checked compression, all cylinders in the 130-132 range (not great but even) so it isn't a dropped ring/ring land. Any ideas people. I might re wire the cas if i can be bothered, any idea where i can find a plug? Or how to pull my existing plug apart? Thanks guys

It'll run but it'll be a bitch. You should be able to drive it to the workshop but if they are definately a drop in swap then i'd do it out the front of the work shop and save yourself the hassle.

You may find that the microtech isn't helping things unless the LT series actually have closed loop mixture control at cruise. Piggybacks and pfcs retain this function which is one reason they can still give decent fuel economy.

Thanks for the advice guys. Yep, compression test was on the list of things to do though i've dumped it in the unlikely basket due to the problem being inconsistant, sometimes it's shocking and sometimes you barely notice it. Swapped in another ecu last night and it seemed to run perfectly but then this morning it was back to the same problem. I'm waiting on an adapter for my new laptop so i can check what the emanage is seeing. I really want to see what the airflow meter signal is like when it is having issues as it will allow me to rule it out as a possiblity. I've had the plug off the cas a few times in the past and actually had it off on the weekend when i swapped the injectors. It still clips in fine and doesn't seem to be damaged at all. Is there anything in particular to look for? Vacuum leak is on the list of probables as the car is getting on now so i expect there are a few pipes past their prime around the intake manifold though there is nothing really obvious that i could see on the weekend, just a few slightly hard pipes. Thanks again, I guess i'll just keep trying til i run out of patience then torch the car and claim insurance.

the s5 turbo is much better than the s4 and not any laggier due to better design. The wastegate is bigger (i think it has twin outlets) so it doesn't creep. It has a proper split pulse exhaust housing design (like a t04) where as the s4 turbo is designed with an uneven split as it was designed to have a flap cover the smaller port at low revs to spool up the turbo faster. But that said, it's designed for a rotary which flows a shit load of air for the power produced so it'll be laggy compared to a highflow or matched turbo.

So now i have swapped out all the coils, no change. Cleaned afm, no change. Will be swapping for a working ecu on the weekend and hopefully getting ahold of a afm

Probably doesn't help you much as your in qld but you can pick up a s/h r32 gtst ignitor for 125 bucks from just jap in sydney. Give your local import wreckers a try i spose.

How much you want for a couple of coil packs?

I've had a look at past threads on misfires and only found one that relates to my problem but there was no solution given so here goes. My car is currently having a bit of an issue between 2000 and 3000 rpm with medium load where it has a bit of a hesitation, kind of like one cylinder isn't firing properly but it's not actually missing. As a result the acceleration isn't smooth between 2 and 3k but surges slightly. It also does it on deceleration at the same point. To date i have: swapped ignitor swapped injectors for cleaned and flowed set swapped plugs and gapped them down to .9 swapped two coils that had a bit of cracking for known good ones (i will be swapping another 2 out once the car cools down for the two cracked ones to see if it makes a difference and then doing the same again later this arvo if it's still there) Prior to this it would occasionally drop a cylinder during light load (freeway) driving by fouling the plug. If i floored it and built a bit of boost it would start to run on that cylinder again. This was what got me changing the injectors as i thought i had a seized one and i did the plugs while i was there. Now it doesn't drop a cylinder but still runs a bit rough in the 2-3k range. Any suggestions would be appreciated gents. Thanks Dave

The round thing on the front of the cam belt cover

Yep, r32 gtst. Had a bit of a spirited drive last night. There is a bit of scrubbing of the plastic liner if you are cornering hard and hit a big bump but i can live with that. Doesn't help that i'm running a bit of castor too, i think it's 8 degrees.

I'd just be getting a quick dyno run done to check the mixtures and the timing are ok and if so then leave it alone for a while til you sort suspension. Then you'll know what power it makes and know it's safe. PLus you already seem happy with the way it drives. Brakes are very good standard, just get some decent pads, I wont recommend brands cos there always seem to be arguements. I use rb74s.

Before you took the ecu to bits was it factory sealed? The r32 wont run that rich until you put in a bigger fuel pump. If it has a pump then theres a fair bet thats why it's running rich. But as with everything some cars just run rich as **** for one reason or another. My mates sil80 has always run rich. Ever since hes owned it, it's always had a black rear bar. He bought it near stock, the only mod was an exhaust.

Looks good to me. Has enough bits for an easy 220rwkw plus depending on the highflow and tune. Hope the suspension, braking and tyres have been sorted too

I've just fitted 17x8 + 30 with 215-45 on the front. The car has 315mm centre to guard on the front. Sits just inside the guard with no scrub. With the +36s on the front the rims should sit further in than mine would and so you could probably fit a wider tyre without hitting the guard or needing it lipped. You may have some clearance issues in board though on your suspension upper arms or springs. I have trial fitted the rears without tyres and jacked them up to where they would normally sit. They are a 17x9 +35, same as what you are looking at. They sit just inside the guard and there is about 10mm clearance at the back of the rim to the hicas steering arm ball joint. The rear guards will definately need lipping before the wheels will fit without scrubbing.