BHDave

The flange is a 5 bolt which is to suit sr t25 flange, maybe one of a pair off rb26. rb20/25 has a 6 bolt exhaust flange. So basically this one isn't to suit rb20/25.

I just upgraded to an osgiken twin plate last weekend. Stock 32gtst clutch and flywheel weighed 15kgs and the new one weighed 9kgs. I've found acceleration off boost to be greatly improved, haven't felt much difference on boost. Biggest issue is the car will occasionally stall itself when pulling up at a set of lights when the air con is off.

On my r32 i found that unplugging the hicas control unit completely resulted in a near total loss of power steering. There are two plugs on the r32 unit and by unplugging only one ( i think it's the smaller of the two) you keep the power steering and luckily the hicas light doesn't come on either I know the r33 uses a different type of hicas but i don't know whether the control module is similar or completely different.

You will also need the gtr resistor pack or will have to splice resistors into the injector loom to suit the different impedence as gtr injectors are a low impedence injector where as gtst are a high impedence injector

Mine still has it, don't see why it's illegal to carry one and use it in an emergency, particulary if you have just parked your car off a cliff

173rwkw saw my af ratio start to head up at 45 degrees at around 6000rpm when i still had a stock fuel pump. With new pump the stock injectors are running at about 85% duty at 7000rpm producing the same power from 6-7000rpm. Based on that i'd say you could see about 200rwkw at 100% duty cycle using stock injectors.

Danzil, your's is doing it because you are loading up the power steering pump and so it is harder for the engine to turn it and so the revs drop and then the aac valve lets some air in to correct so they jump back up.

Don't think i'm invited, rb20 with stage 2 gcg highflow. It brings new meaning to the term laggy boost curve is something like: 2000rpm 0psi 2500rpm 0psi 3000rpm 1psi 3500rpm 3psi 4000rpm 6psi 4200rpm 12psi i only run 12psi atm until the new injectors go in next month and the car gets a tune makes 173rwkw atm

I'd be inclined to get an ebc having used a number of bleed and reg type bost controllers there are quite a few issues that you will encounter. The first and worst is that bleed valves will generally peak at your set boost but fade as the revs rise, somewhere in the order of 2-3 psi. Second is thermal stability, with a bleed because it is a set orrifice size the boost tends to flutuate with temperature, higher if colder, lower if hotter. Cheap regulator tyes are even worse than bleeds. I haven't owned a decent ebc yet but have driven and been driven in a number of cars fitted with them and looked at dyno results showing boost and the ebcs are a lot more stable. They hold boost all the way to redline and tend to be more stable with temperature. They also have the added advantage of brining boost on quicker by stopping any pressure signal reaching the wastegate so it doesn't creep as much and let exhaust gas past. If an ebc is spiking it is because it has not been installed and set up properly.

You don't really need to upgrade the reg. Generally they get used in combination with stock injectors to squeeze a bit more out of em. As you are upgrading your injectors then i think it's not really nescessary as your new injectors will be able to flow more than enough for your power goals without additional base fuel pressure.

Nah, you wont fit 10s under a stock 32 gts-t rear end. on stock wheels you can fit 225 tyres without guard rolling. You can definately get 9 inch wheels with 235, maybe 245 tyres if you lip the rear guard.

Did somebody say test mule?

Thats what i mean by firing late enough so it's actually early for the next firing stroke. Say when you start the car piston 1 is on the firing stroke, ecu sends signal to fire the sparkplug but emanage intercepts it and does not send it until the next firing stroke on cylinder 1 but slightly earlier in the stroke so its effectively advanced. It's about the only way i can think of that the emanage can advance the timing because you are only adding advance to the standard timing, not re writing the entire ignition map. Either that or it is using the signal of the first cylinder that fires to adjsut the advance on the next one that fires. Trust actually state an error of +/-1 degree in their manual for ignition timing which i assume is because it is not using a cas but using the firing signal from the ecu as it's input. This is why i think it should still be retarding on gear chang in autos. Or i'm completely wrong about the whole thing and it's actually really simple.

Just thinking out loud. As the emanage has no cas input it is really ony dependent on intercepting the outgoing signal from the ecu and delaying/advancing that (i assume to advance it actually is delaying the signal by almost one cycle). So when the auto shifts the stock ecu will retard the timing to waht it normally would plus the amount of advance the emanage is putting in so the timing is still being retarded to a certain extent. Or no?

Just the indicators, one screw and one plug each side. Piece of cake

I remover the front bar and inner guard cos i was fitting a front mount at the same time. it's pretty easy to get to all the nuts and bolts

Just drive up newbridge road and visit GCG at Condell park, can't remember the street name. They can do a rebuild, possibly exchange, for you and are very reputible. On the other hand a second hand rb25 turbo is alot cheaper. Don't know how easy it will be to find one though.

6'3" in r32 gts-t, stock seats, no sunroof, no probs. I have about an inch between the top of my head and the roof. I have the steering wheel as high as it will go and asfar back as it will go with my seat in a comfortable position, not lent too far back so i still have back support. Sunroof takes about 2 inches out of the equation though You want to try sitting in an s13 with a sunroof, thats really bad.

It's a fair bet that somethings bent if your steering wheel wasn't pointing straight after you hit the kerb. The wheel alighnment can only correct it up to a point. Thats what i'd be getting checked first.

First i'd get your current engine checked out, ie compression test and leak down test at the least to see if it's still healthy. If so then keep it. For about 5 to 5.5k you can get turbo, intercooler, full exhaust, Injectors, pod filter and Remap of the stock ecu, should make over 200rwkw easily. Then you'd need a clutch and afm upgrade and another tune and you could make closer to 230rwkw 5k for an engine swap that will make you maybe 150rwkw without mods and it doesn't really compare. Though if you plan on going further then it may be worth while, particularly if your existing engine is a bit shagged.

There isn't a s1 and s2 as such but there was a freshen up of the model in early 92 i think, different gauge colours being one thing i cant hink of

I'd look for an adaptor before you start hacking up the rims. bike shops and the like would probably have something

you want bcp6res for .8mm gap or bcp6res-11 for 1.1mm gap (which is the factory recommended gap), repco has em in stock all the time.

Sorry mate, can't remember the the colours in the loom, just remeber there is a common ground running into the ecu cos i recently wired in an emanage. best bet is to strip the injector harness and trace the wires i'm afraid.

The factory ecu has 6 pin outs, one per injector and one common ground. To wire in the low imp injectors and dropping resistor you need to splice into the ground wire at each injector plug and run them to the 6 individual plugs on the dropping resistor. Then run the common ground wire on the resistor back to the point in the gtst loom where the 6 wires tie back into one and run back to the ecu injector ground pin. To find the common pin on the gtr dropping resistor just check for continuity between all the pins with a multimeter to be sure as i haven't seen one for a while and can't remeber if the 6 go in one side and the common comes out the other. Pretty simple in theory but a pain in the arse when you are pulling tape off looms to find the right wires