BHDave

Can anyone recommend a fuel injection specialist who can clean and flow injectors, preferably in sydney? I finally completed my set of 550cc injectors and dont really want to just stick them in the car without getting them cleaned and checked out. Thanks in advance. Dave

Sounds like your boss kit isn't compatible with the hicas steering angle sender on the column. If you can replace the steering wheel temporarily with a stocker then you will know for sure. If so you can try and adapt the stock boss assembly to your new one or alternatley get a hicas lock kit and get rid of the rear wheel steer all together, it's the better option for sure. Then just pull the light in the dash. Problem solved.

Mine pops and farts on trailing throttle, less so now since i took a bit of fuel out higher in the range but it still does it a fair bit. Also does it if i lift completely at high revs entering a corner and let it go for a couple of seconds before reapplying the throttle. My cat is less than 6 months old and no exhaust leaks, they were all fixed a couple of weeks back. I like it as it's only really happening when i'm driving reasonably hard, the rest of the time i just get nothing or a quiet rich pop on gear changes.

You've probably just installed the new cas one tooth out on the cam. Just remove it and turn it back slightly and reinstall, then reset the base timing

Check the pugs on the knock sensors or the knock sensors themselves going into diagnostic mode on the ecu. if the timing is being retarded then the car will be behaving as you have stated. Knock sensor is a good chance of being the problem

Looking at your mod list i'd say you'll be looking at a front/dump pipe than new turbo next The stock injectors will be hitting 100% around the 175rwkw mark, right about the same time the stock turbo decides to spit its exhaust wheel into the exhaust Maybe a pressure reg to squeeze a bit more power from the stock injectors. FYI, my stock turbo died on 12psi making about 165rwkw.

no worries, send me a pm if you want it.

I use 2.5 all the way, including stock engine bay pipes with the cross over running back beneath the cooler. FYI bigger = laggier cos you have a bigger volume to fill, smaller for response. you will not lose power by using a 2.5 pipe for your average (or above average) street car. You could probably use 2 inch with no ill effects. i used 2.5 cos it matched my factory pipes and intercooler inlet and outlet.

the handling pack will work very well with what you already have, it's the logical next step for you i think. Chuck in the pinapples and you're laughing. FYI It's exactly what i'll be doing next.

I have friends who have done an r33 front brake swap onto a silvia/180 and found that by using the original master cylinder thay have a very spongy feeling pedal but the car stops ok. They have then installed an s14 master cylinder and booster as the s14 has 4 pot fronts and similar rears and the pedal feel improved, probably improved the bias too. In all honesty i'd think that if you are changing one component in the system so dramatically then the others should be changed as well to make the most of it, otherwise you won't get the most of the new calipers. Bias is something important in all of this too.

They should fit. The only concern i'd have is if they were a tight fit over the r32 calipers as the r33 has larger disks and calipers. r33 has bigger guards to fill so you wont have a problem there as far as offsets and sizes go. r32 stockers will fit too, not that thats any good for you.

Yeah, 2510 will make that sort of power with great bottom end aswell. I was offered one about a year ago for 900 with dump, should have snapped it up. No one wanted em at the time and neither did I, thats why it was so cheap.

I have a scored rotor siting in my garage at the moment that you can have for a case of something if interested.

I'm with Rezz, the 96db rating will be on a stock car with only the exhaust changed on it though. Stick on a big turbo with a back cut exhaust turbine and say goodbye to your 96db car.

You misunderstand. I only say you have to swap afms back if you remove the emanage to return the management to stock as the stock ecu will not be calibrated to suit the z32 afm. The emanage has a function that allows you to swap afms and then just update a single pull down menu to suit the change. If you pull the emanage out then the car won't run right with the z32 afm until you swap to a tuneable ecu. Keep the emanage and afm is my recommendation, even if you only use the basic functions of the emangae to take some excess fuel out at the top end it will be doing more for you than the stock ecu will by itself.

You may find the pillow ball in the shock is starting to get a little worn or the bushes in the upper link is getting tired, which is pretty common in older skylines

Ive got them on the rear, wouldn't recommend on the front as i can feel them flopping around when cornering hard

If you already have a z32 afm installed then you'll have to swap it back to standard. For removal if you have both looms installed and they have used plugs on the afm signal and ignition wires then you could get it out in under an hour. Just remove the ignition loom wires one colour (emanage loom uses one colout with white/black stripe for in/out) at a time and re connect the ecu wires to each other, the other wires are spliced intothe loom so you can just cut them off neatly and tape up any exposed cores. I'd recommend keeping it atm and see what it can do. It wont have a prob with the power figures you are looking for as it won't really have to mess with the factory maps much to acheive those numbers. Plus you can easily change the base settings to compensate for the afm and bigger injectors without messing with the tuning maps.

Definately looks wrong. You need the pressure signal coming off the plenum which looks right and one hose running to the actuator and one running to the nipple on the inlet pipe (or nipple on the front of the turbo if you have one) where you have the tee. The tee you have on the inlet pipe doesn't look right to me because you need the run the ebc as a closed circuit if that makes sense.

Unless you are getting the car as a 15yo import then it has to be completely stock to get in under the new laws. I think you still can't get r32s imported under sevs though. Haven't checked for a few months though.

It will be going from closed loop operation where it'll be putting in extra fuel and playing with teh timing as the car is running in cold mode and then switching to open loop with load where maybe the computer isn't adding extra fuel and messing with the timing. maybe....

Just to throw more fuel on the fire.... My car does this (did this). I changed the fuel pump on the weekend and found the severity of the surging (if you can call it that) was reduced significantly, most mornings i can't even feel it anymore. Which leads me to think it may have something to do with the fuel pump voltage controller, which drops the voltage to the pump at idle and cruise to quiet it down and improve it's life span. You may find it's switching between high and low pressure or something when the car is cold and trying to pump more fuel in? I don't really know it's this, just theorising based on my experience.

No idea but you can just start pulling fuses and checking them 1 by 1. Check the main box in the engine bay first and then start checking the one in the passenger foot well. If theres a blown fuse you will definately find it this way.

The brace is definatly a custom job looking at the way it's tacked onto the strut brace bracket. Even the way the bracket is shaped makes me think that is custom to suit the master cylinder brace. Weird. As for the fuel issues you may want to swap the cap over for starters to make sure that it's not stuck open and venting all the time. Also check your charcoal canister (black cylinder on the passenger side front corner of the engine bay) as thats there to absorb the petrol smell, and the lines running to it. You may have a blockage somewhere that is causing pressure to build up in the tank and vent from there rather than running through the canister. Your reduced fuel economy has got me stuffed though

Guilty, you just have the rich pop when you are changing gear, most skylines have it but some more than others. Mine used to get it quite loud until i took some fuel out