BHDave

I have Autometer boost and A/F gauge jammed at the bottom of the A pillar with Oil temp, Water temp and Oil pressure in the bottom slot in the centre console as the Climate control sits in the top din slot and the stereo sits in the second slot. In an R32 GTS-t.

I'm in agreement with Inasnt on the advantages of the A/M manifold. Even on a small turbo the improved flow of the new manifold will give a reasonable gain. Only problem with getting a decent manifold on an RB that I see is that the turbo will have to be moved from it's stock location in order to get a decent manifold in there so you will need custom oil & coolant lines, intake pipe and dump. Not a huge problem, but enough of a pain in the arse that i'm leaving it for a while longer (it also has something to do with not having enough cash to do what i want when i want)

? How so? The exhaust housing has to sit at the same orientation as it's bolted to the exhaust manifold, all you'll do is rotate the core and comp housing in relation to the rest of the engine and then nothing will line up

I had this setup on for about 2 days then threw it away because the thermal stability is bloody ordinary. The hotter the the valve gets the higher the boost gets, also the releif valve tends to let air through at a lower pressure once it's heated up. Maybe the BIT reg is a better one, i don't know, but based on the basic setup and the cost of the better/extra components you'd be better off spending an extra 50 bucks and buying a cheapy hybrid electronic boost controller.

I got mine second hand and it was about 4months old at the time, probably closer to 7months old now. Came off an sr20 actually. I'd killed my turbo and it came up for a good price so i got it as a bit of a stop gap. Id reckon they may also run into surge problems on the rb20 due to the engine not being able to flow as much as the rb25 though i haven't got to that stage yet. Gimme a couple of months.

No shit. I know why GCG don't recommend them for rb20s

Is it possible to to cut off the vl dump and have it machined flat and then mount it as a sandwich plate between the back of the turbo and the rb20 dump? The only thing i can see being a problem is that you would need new longer studs in the turbo housing to suit the wider plate/dump arrangement and need an additional gasket. It'd also be a lot neater than some of the nasty cut and shut jobs ive seen people do in this situation, and it gives you the option of upgrading to a better off the shelf dump/front pipe arrangement in the future.

I have had this problem on the single stage switchable turbosmart. Turned out to be the ball valve in the tee piece wasn't allowing the pressure to escape from the actuator and was holding open the waste gate. I removed the ball and spring from the tee and low boost setting worked properly again. You shouldn't have this problem though as the low boost bleed should be allowing the pressure to get away. I didn't have a low boost adjustment so the pressure just sat there. May be worth a shot anyway.

I dont have a stage 1 but i have a stage two on RB20 with no tuning so you can atleast get an indication. Mine starts to gradually build boost from about 3k, has 5psi by 4k, hits 7 by 4200 and then rockets to 11psi (i haven't upgraded fuel yet so am pegging it there at the moment) I have exhaust, cooler and pod. It's a fair bet that the stage 1 will make good boost slightly earlier than this and the boost response will be less peaky.

There are that many different types of truck cores available that you cant just write them all off. Some have quite large runners that will flow no problem, others have massive spaces between relatively small runners that are designed to allow more air to the radiator (generally the ones that are 4 foot square) and will mean it doesn't cool for shit once cutdown. That said, you can buy a new hybrid for as little as 550 that will do the job nicely and save yourself alot of time/trouble/money getting end tanks fabricated to suit a truck core that may or may not do the job.

I haven't seen a TD05 with an external gate but that doesn't mean they dont exist. I think it may be a bit small for the RB25, as i see most TD05 kits for hondas and CA18s, generally stepping up to smallish TD06s on SRs and RB20s

Every one knows about the SV high imp injectors, pink offset plug with part no 195500-2020 and S4 low imp injectors with centre plug, brown (i think), low imp and part no 195500-1370. I have 4 odd ball, high imp, pink offset plug, denso 550 injectors with part number 195500-1370 (the same as the low imp injectors). These were taken out of my old rx7 and swapped for another set the same a while back (pure fluke i think) so i know they are 550s. Anyone know if there is a difference in the plug between my injectors and the 550s with no -2020. I'm looking to make a set of six soon so i would like to know as i don't really want different plugs and impedences in some injectors. Cheers Dave

Do you still have these? If so then i'd be interested at $250

r32 gtst are plus 40s and 16x6.5.

Mine does something similar. It feels like the timing is jumping around while the car is still warming up. Only does it when maintaining a speed or accelerating slowly. Idles fine or when under a bit of load. Then it will just suddenly be fine, like the computer switches from cold run mode to normal temp mode or something. Definately either sensor or ecu related, not thermostat i think.

Anyone know who can tune the things in sydney? I'll be installing one in the next few weeks along with injectors and a fuel pump and really want to get it sorted straight away.

I'd say she's just starting to breath a bit as she gets older. Also the higher boost pressure will have a bit to do with it as the higher the pressure above the piston, the more can be pushed past it. Mine did it when running 16psi, doesn't do it at 12. I wouldn't be overly concerned at this stage, just keep an eye on it. If it still makes power and doesn't ping then i'd just carry on as you're doing. When the engine gets tired then replace/rebuild it.

Posted this a while back but pics have dissapeared so here it goes again. R32 GTS-t 70mm catback. Polished stainless rear muffler. The usual scratches on the mid muffler. $250 negotiable. Prefer Sydney buyer.

Suspension, nittos/slicks and learn how to launch properly. Then you can do it with less power Though drag suspension will suck for daily driving

Thats some nice whoring. I'd take it to a profesional for an opinion. Maybe pull the af meter off and havea look to see if anythings loose in there, check wiring hasn't been crushed in the inner guard if the car was an auto before the conversion. Probably pull the front pipe off and have a look in the turb to see if you can see any chips in the blades and have a feel for play in the shaft. BB turbo should have very little shaft play. Unless somethings fallen off the af meter then the turbo shouldn't have eaten anything though.

I've gotta say that that is just freakish, same bumps and dips in the curve and everything. Did you try playing around with the cam timing anymore after the 4deg retarded run? Because a change of that magnitude will have some sort of effect, no matter how small. You seem to have no effect except for minor variations that may be attributed to different environmental conditions. Is it definately an R34 exhaust cam wheel and not r33? do they have a differnt locating pin position like say an s13 vs s14 inlet cam? Only reason i ask is because those two curves look to be made by an engine that is identical. Did you try a run at -4 then wind the cam timing back to 0, i reckon somethings out mate, no matter who did the work.

s15 is +45 others are +40 as rezz said. As for aftermarket wheels some wheels wont clear an r33 caliper but will clear a s14 caliper as they are slightly narrower.

Now that makes sense. I have a mate who has done an s14 sr conversion into an s13 running s13 computer. He installed a switch to control the vvt and it makes a massive difference. When he was tuning the car on the dyno there was an easy 20kw difference in the midrange but it tapered off at the top end. There was a definate difference at the top end when it was on/off though i cant remember the figure.

Did you end up getting it checked out? Any probs or is there a thermostat in the relocation plate that is causing the behavior you describe? BTW, thats a bloody big oil cooler

No The fan would push less air through the core than the airflow at 60kph Great when sitting in traffic but then the fan would be a restriction once you start moving again :Oops: