BHDave

You mention you are getting 1 good run and then nothing? What type of bleed? I had a turbosmart single stage switchable which did this till i removed the ball and spring in the tee piece My stock turbo made 164rwkw on 12psi with frountmount, zorst, pod and hks actuator. Peak power was at 5800rpm. This figure was posted 2 weeks before the stock turb died too so the turb was probably on the way out.

The only way it can perform better is by improving the flow to the core and adding a water spray. Even than it is a flow restriction once the boost in increased to around 12psi so not really worth the time to play with if you are running muchover stock boost.

No idea what the sensor is but it'd be intersting to see if it'll start and drive when cold, also whether the car pings like a bitch when the temperature gets high. On the dyno you atleast have the confidence that they are monitoring for ping.

Just thought of something really obvious. Is the factory sensor reading the oil temp as it is leaving the block, so before it gets pushed through the core. I only installed an oil temp gauge on the weekend but have noticed that the oil takes a lot longer to heat up than the water. The sensor is reading the temp in the sump which probably has something to do with that, as there is a reasonable amount of oil sitting in there to heat up. Once it is heated up though it stays pretty consistantly around the 90-100 degree mark. If there is a thermostat in the relocation plate then what you are describing as happening makes sense. Say the thermostat is opening at 100 degrees for example, for every day driving it will almost never direct oil through the core. Then on a track day it's obviously seeing higher temps and going through the core but you are seeing the outgoing temp after it's circulated the block. It's kind of like plumbing a water temp sensor into the top hose of the radiator to see the outgoing water temp from the engine rather than seeing the cooler temp after the radiator.

Dunno if the trust kits have a thermostat. HKS kits do, they have an additional return line for when the thermostat is closed. Pay Anthony a visit, he's got one of each at the moment so you can do a comparison. There's a big difference.

I recently tried to sell a 93 supra privately for about 3 months before giving up and taking it to a yard. Market value was around 25000, best offer i got from a yard was 20000. They advertised it for 27. Dealers are the last resort as far as i'm concerned. Only reason i did it was because insurance was about to come due and i didn't want the risk of it sitting in the driveway with no insurance

There are a few screws holding in the handles and at the leading edge of the door, the rest is just popping off the panel as it has press in fittings that will come away as you lift the edges of the trim. Then just disconnect the power windows (make sure the windows are already down) and lift the whole thing upwards to unhook it from the top of the door and shes off.

250 is realistic with a highflow on an RB25 provided it's a good highflow (they aren't all created equal) Or as predator said a bolt up garrett/hks. For around 2k you can get a new garrett or a second hand hks (GT2540 atleast for 250 is my guess).

245kw at the wheels! I love rb26s. If you're blowing that much smoke and getting such bad milage i reckon you need to have it looked at. Theres probably another 20kw hiding in there easy If it is only blowing smoke when you put your foot down then it may just be the pump settings are out of whack and it needs a bit of road tuning to iron out drivability issues. Still talk to a tuner, dyno time is a great way of seeing what your car is doing anyway so give it a go

BCPR6ES-11s in mine. Gapped down to 1.05. No point gapping them down further unless you are having misfiring problems really. Have to be changed at 10000ks rather than 40000 though which is a pain in the arse. Similar mods to you except the fuel system is stock and the turbo is a stage 2 GCG number making a very low 173kw atw because of the fueling

My RB74's started to squeel a bit after about 1000ks when braking slowly from about 10ks to zero but other than that all good. They do start to fade after alot of punishment, like midway through a runup the Old Pacific Hwy but even then they feel better than the dodgy stock pads

You may find that the clutch master cylinder piston is on the way out and leaking past the seal, I've had this happen to me before. Lucky you don't have oil on the clutch plate, my mate had an oil line break and spray oil over the clutch, now it's the most horrible sounding button clutch you've ever heard

Yep, as above but make sure you use a timing light. About 1 mm of movement can add a degree of advance, ut i wouldn't even consider turning in more than 1 degree atm due to the heat, and thats only if you have a frontmount, exhaust and cold air induction. Otherwise forget about it as you may damage your engine if it starts to ping at the top end under load due to excessive heat in the intake charge.

Just gotta say i think you are insane. On the other hand I'd really like to see it work

Don't know about the resolution but the change from a 60mm to 80mm afm is going to have some massive effects on the fueling

16x6.5, +45 offset i believe. They should fit. Better to do a trial though.

Once you start moving a lot of air it's worth an upgrade as the stocker can't dump the pressurised air quickly enough. In your case i'd say it's a worthwhile upgrade. One with a big piston like the turbosmart supersonic or plumb back would do it. Or bigger.

Yeah, it's been up and down like a yoyo lately.

Don't worry mate, I'm only joking, i love 180s. :inlove: I have to justify my purchase of a land barge somehow.

Druzilla, your A/F ratios wont be as bad as these guys are making out as you have an R32, not R33. The RB20DET computer doesn't richen up the mixtures as much as the RB25. My car with very similar mods and a smaller front mount made 164.2rwkw@12psi with stock computer and A/F ratios no worse than 11.8:1. Its a GTS-t rather than GTS4 but the engines the same. Your biggest disadvantage is the weight difference between the cars. I know your pain, all my mates drive s13s. It's the price we have to pay to drive a car with class

You can jam 6 1/2 inch speaker in there but you have to make a mounting board out of 18mm MDF and recess the speaker so it doesn't foul the door trim. I have Kenwood Dual mags in mine ATM.

You'll find that boost will drop off once the wheels start spinning because you can't maintain load on the engine, so your turbo will be spinning slower to start with and then slows a bit more on gear change. Out of interest is the bleed a turbosmart single stage with incabin switch? and does the problem only happen in low boost mode? Mine was put together wrong in the factory and i had to fix the bastard.

Heres one from left field. Have you considered that the rears may be spinning so the drop in revs when you shift to second is dropping the engine below the boost threshold. I have this problem in spades if not careful as i'm running a high flow turbo on an rb20 that doesn't start makin decent boost until about 4000. With a stock turbo this is unlikely I've also had a problem in the past of a gated bleed valve not releasing pressure in the line to the actuator and holding open the wastegate, though this was preventing any boost coming on until 6000 or so.

If you got it off then you shouldn't have problems getting it back on. The only problem i had was the core was rotated very slightly, less then a degree, which made it a bit difficult to get the banjo bolts started. Other than that it was a piece of cake

Just incase you haven't found any gaskets yet, you can get them from GCG in sydney. They have a 3 gasket kit for 40 bucks that includes the t3 flange gasket, dump gasket and oil drain gasket. They do mail order stuff too i think