BHDave

I don't know the part number but if you have the sumitomo calipers then it is the same pad as for the s14/15 200sx. They use a cast iron version of the sumitomo. As these cars are sold locally you sholdn't have a problem getting them. All the sumitomos that i have seen use the same pad, r32 gtst/gtr/gtr vspec1, r33 gts25t, z32, s14/15. dunno about r34 though. Hope that helps some if you can't find a part number

The only advantage I've heard of is where an engine has been in and out of the engine bay a few times and the factory earth straps are getting a bit torn up, but then all you really need to do is repace the appropriate straps and your done.

Thats pretty rooted then. I had always assumed it'd fit the rear at the very least. Time to turf it in the name of weight reduction Or put it on backwards for that deep dish look

You can if you chrome them

Yeah, last time i got a slow leak i used tyre weld or something which went well for a couple of weeks until i got new tyres. Problem is it won't fix a tear in the side wall. You need to change a wheel front to back to use a space saver, i found that out on my old rx7.

Wont work. You aren't loading the turbo so aren't making boost. By clamping the line it will be at atmospheric pressure. If you clamp the line and then make boost it will be seeing a higher pressure in front af the BOV ALL THE TIME and so will leak all boost off constantly once your turbo starts making boost. Also because you are venting your boost you will have sluggish response.

Hey all, Single stage gated boost control valve for sale, current model. Say $120. Sydney buyers only. Includes instructions, brackets, switch and controller Link to turbosmart web page gives details. (it's the one with one knob and an in cabin switch, third from the top) http://www.turbosmart.com.au/boost_control...alves_gated.htm Cheers, Dave

You may have thrown a weight off one of the front wheels at some time. Or flat spotted a tyre as mentioned above. It's worth getting the front wheels balanced and getting another alignment at the same time anyway. 4 wheel alignment was only 50 bucks last time i hade one (i think)

Nah, not a fan. Don't get me wrong i like the car but it really doesn't say Skyline to me, more 350Z than anything. It doesn't look like an evolution of the skyline shape, particularly the way the roof falls to the boot lid and the rounded front end treatment. You can look at the DR30-R34 and see the evolution of the shape but i don't see it here.

You'd also need a solenoid in the bov line that is open when the other one is closed and viceversa to maintain the positive pressure at the bov when you want to deactivate it.

You can fit a Tee in the line that gives the bov a signal and a tee in one of the lines coming off the comp cover and link them with a solenoid in the middle. Switch it open/closed as required and your valve wont open when the solenoid is open as it will be seeing the same pressure on both sides of the piston. This is fine if you have a factory airbox which will muffle the sound of reversion. If you have a pod you will hear the lovely reversion flutter which may be louder than your bov anyway. So basically, yes you can do it but it may not be worth the effort.

I'm with Duncan 164.2rwkw @ 12psi before the stock turbo died, Unigroup Engineering in Shootout mode No idea what it does now

They are a completely different box, physically bigger in every way. I think the guts are virtually identical to the GTR box minus the transfer case but don't quote me.

It wouldn't be any lagier than an s15 turbo but for the extra effort you'd have to put in it's not worth it. You'd probably spend and extra 500 or so on top of the turbo price to get the bastard in (that's if you can do a fair bit yourself) I'd be going the s15 turbo for sure as they can be picked up for about 400 more than an R33 one and will bolt up. I've seen dyno results of s15s making 220-230rwkw with these turbos, but they have cams, injectors, frontmounts, ecus and all the other shit.

The factory computer wont fire unless it's got all the inputs from the MAF and Crankangle sensors working, I'd check that. Also check that the computer is getting power while the key is in the cranking position, not just the ignition position. Also check for spark. Romove a coilpack and put in a spare plug and see if it sparks when you crank.

R32 GTR 4 pots are no bigger than R33 GTS-t which can be had for 550 secondhand with disks if you look around. BTW R32 Vspec 1 disks are closer to 305mm diameter The pic is 32GTSt compared to 32GTRVspec1 (don't mind the writing on them)

As mentioned above, do the dump and get a front mount and a simple boost controller. And a boost gauge would help too. The e-01 is a boost controller, not a piggy back, the e-manage is the fuel/ignition computer.

If you can hear the pinging then you are in trouble, light pinging is impossible to hear from the drivers seat. If you only turn the boost down until you cant hear it then you may still be doing damage. Get it on a dyno and do a power run. See if its pinging and then reduce the boost a touch until it stops. If you retard the timing by messing with the crank angle sensor then response will be affected. There is only 1 solution and that is turn down the boost. Otherwise get a bigger frontmount, bigger turbo so it can push the same amount of air in at a lower temperature and a computer so you can have advanced timing where you need it to maintain response and retard it on boost to avoid ping

It's a nice contrast, but a bit bright for me. I'd probably leave it for a while and see how you go.

If you're going from a non bb turbo to a bb turbo make sure there is a restictor in the oil line or it'll blow smoke like a biatch. The stock oil line off an rb20 with a bb turbo will have it in but a non bb wont.

Works fine, nothing to worry about. If you see another 32 at a set off light have a listen, if it's got a pod you'll hear it

RB20 turbs are are noisy bastards to begin with, If it starts making other noises and boost response drops off then id worried.

Sounds like the factory step up, just at higher boost levels. The turbo by itself won't do that. I have a stage 2 on an RB20 atm, once it peaks it stays flat. Just using an HKS actuator plumbed straight off the compressor cover nipple.

Id stick with the factory size piping, 2.5 inch or so or even 2 inch with a 3 inch flair on the ends. The smaller piping wont cause a restiction on a mildly modded engine. If you get 3 inch piping all the way you will have more lag when you change gears as you have a greater volume in the inlet tract that has to be presurised.

Cat back will give you more initally as it removes the restrictions in the back half of the exhaust. Front pipe will give a small gain in response and midrange power but the gasses still have to get out of the stock cat/exhaust. Catback first, followed by a dump and high flow cat at the same time is probably the way to go if you're on a budget.