BHDave

I've done the swap too with no probs. Mid 92 GTSt to a GCG highflow, 45v1 on the comp cover if memory serves. Not that its any help now But i did do a turbo swap on my S4 rx7 and Mazda had changed the oil banjo bolt sizes mid run, the bastards.

Simple answer. **** NO. As MJ says, by the time you get everything altered to fit the turbo it'll cost too much to be worthwhile. Don't forget the dump is different, oil and water lines different, exhaust flange is different, compressor outlet is different....... And you'll make less power too.

While we're talking about wheels, I'd be interested to know what sort of max widths and offsets can be run on the 32 gtst. I'm pretty certain i've seen 34GTR rims stuffed under the guards of a 32. Are they an 8 inch rim and whats the offset on these? Also what guard modifications are needed (if any) to fit them.

Series 4 Turbo has low imp injectors if i remember correctly. So they'll fit in the manifold and rail, need a new plug and not require any screwing around with the loom. But these are even older (86-88) unless you give Mazda a very thick wad of cash for some new ones.

Id have a couple of spring compressors as back up anyway as some most springs have a bit of preload so you'll have problems getting the struts back together. Other than that its a piece of cake, if you can get the assembly off the car then you can swap the springs, it's only one nut and assembly is the reverse of dismantling.

If you over speed the turbo the ceramics will shit them selves after a while. You can run higher boost than recommended for short stints and get away with it. Then they dont like too much heat either. If you have a continuous on boost run, then you can have the turbine delaminate and fall off the shaft. My rb20 turbo died on 12 psi after a cruise one night cos it was an boost constantly for 45 minutes or so.

Initial D rocks I got copies of the first two series and couldn't stop watching them. Took me two days straight but it was worth every minute

There's no difference in the engines. I'd say the bleed is either blocked up with shit or is installed incorrectly. Time to start trouble shooting. Pull the bleed back out and run the car, see what it does. If it's good then i'd be checking the bleed valve out. Make sure the restrictor hasn't been blocked up as it will mean the wastegate closes slower and therefore lets exhaust gas past the turbine. If the bleed is ok then reinstall it but fully close it. It should have very little effect on boost response. If it does effect it badly i'd be throwing it in the bin. Thats the only thing i can think of. Or the car is pinging its head off and the computer is retarding the timing to try and stop it.

Bloody turbosmart, they have alot to answer for. Kidding Is your bleed one of the new anodised red ones and is it a single stage switchable one. I had a problem with mine where the gate wasn't letting pressure get away from the actuator and so i had no boost until 5000 or so because the actuator was partially stuck open. Worked fine on high boost though. I removed the gate and it worked fine after that. The boost dropping off is a common thing with bleed valves. Don't worry about it...yet. A metal front wheel wont affect the response that much, maybe a couple of hundred rpm difference. Probably want to check that the turbo spins freely and that there are no boost leaks and stuff like that. Check the manifold to turbo gasket isn't blown. And check the wastegate isn't getting caught open somehow on the dump pipe. I had a mate who had this problem. Last resort is pull the turbo off and get it checked out, even if you have to courier it to someone further south.

Ah, i get you now. By having a base line figure for the stock engine you can then look at the percentage increase for a given mod, rather than some magical rwkw number and eliminate any dyno fudging. Pretty certain it was a 2530 on the skyline based on how the compressor cover looked. I've seen a few like this but never a 2540 with that cover. R33 with 2530 would be making boost at idle! And making a fair bit of power to boot. My problem with inflated dyno figure in magazines is they have no need to inflate them. Give people a genuine figure that is realistic and they can aim for it if they want. The S13 drift silvia figures are out of this world and from everything i've seen and read (even in the same magazine) are unatinable with the stock turbo. If you or I tried for these numbers we'd blow something up. Then people start quoting them, as i have done, and then people start to beleive that this turbo makes this power and heads off to buy one and are disapointed with the end result. p.s. I think we hijacked the thread, sorry guys.

It doesn't matter about abs. Nothing to worry abou.t The calipers and disks will be pretty much the same, there's just an extra box under the bonnet that is inline with the brake lines and some kind of sensor that would be mounted to the r34 upright and a pickup on the rotating assembly.

I dont know whether the uprights are the same but the hub assembly should be. Just a bit more effort to get it all together rather than droping one assembly and bolting up another

Yeah, the disks would have to be redrilled or you can get new blanks and have them drilled through DBA. Also the R34 disks will be slightly larger than R32 and the Callipers are a bit bulkier. You would also need to consider the clearence between the inside circumference of your rims and the offset of the rims. You will need a minimum 40mm offset to clear the brakes. I have a pic of my upgrade with the brakes side by side but can't seem to upload it. Basically there is a bloody big difference in size. 33/34 brakes are bigger and better though.

I haven't seen a GT-rs with a T3 flange yet. Do HKS make them at this stage? There have been a few guys looking/waiting for them for a while now. Apparently there is one for a WRX, not that that helps any of us A mate of a mate makes around 270rwkw with one of these on a highly modified SR20 (at least when its running and not cracking heads) Guess you got online before me tonight Roy

You've got me stumped then cos the turbine outlet size on that turbo looks stock. Does the boost step up at some point? R33s have a staged setup on the factory boost controller so it comes on lower initially and then steps up to the high setting. It should be making boost from 2500 rpm or even sooner. You may want to start checking things like the wastegate actuator to ensure its closing properly and if you are running a bleed valve or something like that and it's not hooked up properly it may be stuffing things up.

Leave me alone I figure you're just looking for interesting reading too. I'd forgotten about the cams, thanks for reminding me. I still think it's a fair call, not saying that it'll make stupid power on all cars, just giving an idea of the potential flow of the turbo itself. 270rwkw is a shit load of power for any 2 litre engine to handle and is more than most people will aim for. Plus you're talking about an sr20 which is still a two litre engine so ulimately with the same sort of mods they can flow a similar amount of air through them. All that aside, HKS make some bloody good turbos so I wouldn't be surprised to hear of even bigger numbers coming from Japan.

JMS Onevia made over 250rwkw with a TD06 and there was also a budget build article in Zoom (I think) that was making 250rwkw with a 2530. I am a bit doubtful about the 2530 making this kind of power (some magazine power figures seem a little inflated to me ) but if the engine is sound then it should have few problems making this type of power. Then the question is how long will it hold together. Not all that long is my guess. Both of the above cars have been through atleast one engine. edit: I'll know for sure in about 3 months when i have a go with tuning mine (once the fuel is sorted) just to see whats possible. Then turn it back to about 220 or so i guess for reliability as the car is a daily driver

You can see in the photos of the back of the turbo in the Skyline downunder thread that there is a bit of space between the turbine outlet and the edge of the body. If it's been machined this gap will be reduced or nonexistant (like on mine). Basically the outlet size has been increased Dunno about the numbers on the turbine, never looked at it

The 2835 is capable of making around 270rwkw when you use an external gate and hks manifold at around 1.5 bar if you believe what HPI prints (I'm starting to doubt them a bit after the numbers their CA18T is supposedly putting out). At 1 bar you will be well below the efficiency window of the turbo so wont get any real benefit from using it as it will be laggy and not make a huge amount of power. That said, it will make bloody good power if you are willing to wind in the boost but don't expect too much below about 3500-4000. You'd also need all the support systems in place like fuel, intercooler, ecu etc.

Ah, now i know what you want to see. The stock turbo will have a big nissan stamped on the compressor cover (funny that) and 45v1 as you have writen above. Pull off the heat sheild on the turbine housing and check if theres a small plate attached next to the top oil fitting. GCG highflows have a little plaque here. 4500 is pretty late to be hitting 15psi with an rb25. It would have to have the turbine housing machined out to buggery to do that. I thought my car was laggy and thats supposedly a 500 hp turbo on a 2 litre!?! Only way to say for sure is rip the dump off and have a look at the exhaust turbine outlet to see if it's been machined to suit a larger wheel. Or take it to a place that does highflows on RB25 turbos for a look.

Basically you want the smallest turbo that will give you the power figures you want unless you want major lag. BTW you have a lot of mods considering you have a stock turbo. I'd set an upper limit of 250rwkw with the standard bottom end so would be looking at the 2530 or 2535, which have both made this figure (though the 2530 is really pushing it at these power levels) I currently have a stage 2 GCG highflow on a virtually stock rb20 and it's just way too laggy atm. Potential 270-80 rwkw supposedly once it's all tuned. ATM it starts to get interesting at about 4200rpm

What do you want to put it on? On my RB20 GCG stage 2 really starts to come alive at about 4200 but i haven't tuned it yet. Needs a lot of fuel and ignition changes in the midrange though. Sorry, didn't take any pics of it before it went on.

Id gap the plugs to the factory specs and see how she runs. It sounds like you are getting spark break down on the transition to boost. Smaller gap will fix it. I wouldn't gap the plugs down any further than stock unless you have a fairly modded car and it had a misfiring problem already. And as Jim says, make sure they are the equivalent heat range as the stockers and not too cold.

Yeah, bank cheques are very safe. Just make sure you sight the cheque before you sign over the car. Another good thing is that you have to get all his details to fill out the transfer of ownership so just ask to see his licence and take down all the details, including licence number. That way if in the unlikely event that something does go wrong you have the details. Just call up the cops, quote the lic number and name, address and rego on the car and all will be good. You can also follow up with the bank on the drawer of the cheque in the first place. Nothing to worry about really

That was how i read it. Being a tight ass and all Even though the website says they have a shitload of sizes in the k104 they only seem to have 18s and some 17s atm though.