BHDave

There's nothing too special about the name brand bleed valves, Theres a shit load of guys out there who run homemade bleeds and if they are made and setup correctly you wouldn't have a problem with them. The problem with bleed valves is they cant maintain the higher boost all the way to redline unless you set them up with a lot of piping and if you do then you will get a lot of spiking. Thats the trade off. The greddy on the otherhand is a regulator type controller rather than a bleed and are a shitload better at maintaining higher boost to redline and have minimal spiking. I'm in the process of building a home made regulator type controller and turfing my bleed valve. Heres a link if you're interested http://www.autospeed.com/A_0670/cms/article.html Have fun

If you put a malpassi with a higher base pressure after the stock regulator then you will have higher base pressure through out the whole system. The stock regulator will open at say 40psi but the malpassi is behind it is maintaining say 50psi. That means that the stock regulator is just sitting there causing a restriction in the fuel system. Anyone got rich idle problems when running a bigger fuel pump? This is because the stock reg cant flow enough fuel to maintain the 40psi (this is just an arbitary number) base pressure and hence the pressure behind the injectors increases and they squirt in more fuel for given opening time. When you are driving, there is more fuel being used by the engine and so the regulator doen't need to flow as much to maintain a set pressure so it's ok. By fitting a rising rate malpassi you can eliminate this problem by setting the standard base pressure, and hence get good idle mixtures, and as it has a 2:1 rising rate (from memory) you get additional fuel into the engine when you are on boost which is where you really need it. If you are running a higher base pressure then you will require tuning to get the idle right but due to the higher pressure atomisation of the fuel mixtures will be affected so you may never achieve a factory idle. Just my 2 cents. Dave

Yep, thats what it sound's like. Pull off the intake and exhaust pipes and check that the turbo spins and doesn't scrape anthing or move on the shaft too much. Also check that you still have an exhaust wheel. If it's still got an exhaust wheel then read on. Did the turbo come with any kind of warranty? Was it from a shop? If not then do the following. It'll cost you a little bit of money but you will get a full refund on the turb. Take it off the car and take it to a turbo specialist, say you've just bought it and want it checked out before you put it on your car. It'll cost you some money but at the end of the day you'll get a bit of paper that says either "turbo good" or "turbo ****ed". Take that back to the bloke who sold it to you and and tell him to ram his dud turbo up his arse. I've been caught out before on my old rx7. Good bearing, dud oil seals. It was worse than the one i took off. Crack the shits and get a refund. Back yourself if they say it has no warranty. They have to give your money back if its checked out by a professional.

Hey mate, welcome to the forums Have you joined up with these guys yet? It's fairly small but I'd say it's right up your alley. http://www.silviansw.com enjoy

Is the a-LSD option definately supported by the PFC? I had a quick look at the applications list at the Jap website using babelfish for a translator. It doesn't mention any specific exclusions so i'd assume so. do s1 and s2 r33s use a different pfc? http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/u...werrfc1025.html Try out the second PFC if it's available for use to you, if it's still not right then i'd source a wiring diagram and find out what outputs go from the stock compuer to the lsd controller and check the signal out that is being sent. Then do the same for the PFC. Id also do an onroad test as suggested earlier and see if it is working even though you have an error light. You may just have a dud output or a short on the warning light. Hope you can sort it without reverting to tracing wires and checking signals, it's a horrible job! Good luck

Yep, thats about right. Tierods are part of the steering rack and adjustable for toe (it's what they play with when doing a wheel alignment), Castor rods are what we're talking about here. The price sounds about right for whiteline. Add install if you aren't going to do it yourself.

No way will you get a ball bearing turbo rebuilt for 800 with new wheels, core and associated balancing, machining etc. If it was a plain bearing turbo it'd be a good price. Closer to 1800 unless you know someone I don't Second hand r33 turbo will set you back 5-600 if you can find one for private sale.

I have a mate with a well sorted s14 with these tyres. He gets about 10,000km of pretty hard driving. They'll make a massive handling difference too if the rest of your suspension is up to it.

the bushes start to leak some silicone shit. It's pretty obvious to see.

Bride are popular cos they are Japanese and so are the seat most commonly found in Modified Jap performance cars. It's all in the name. They are no better than recaros or sparcos (except they come in bright red )

I'd like to see that. Must be the worlds biggest recall!

That doen't sound good. Is the boost controller definately switched to low boost? You've got me stumped

Yeah, your diagrams about right. Tap the boostgauge power into the light on the cigarette lighter or the gauge light will be on all the time that the car is on. Whats the fuse rating that keeps blowing? Worth trying another point i reckon. The solenoid will pull one amp so I'd try using something running through a bigger fuse (like a 15 or 20amp one) which should give you a bit more current before blowing up. Or if theres only the cigarette lighter running off that fuse then it may be easier to put a bigger (by 5) fuse in it.

Anythin that switches on when you turn on the ignition/acc will have a switched power line. If you have a non original stereo it'll be easier because most have a wiring diagram on the top. There is always a wire that switches the stereo on/off with ignition, it'll tell you on the top of the stereo. Find that one and splice into it. Run that wire to one side of the BC switch. Run the wire off the other side off the switch to the solenoid (blue wire from memory). Then connect the brown wire to a ground(basically anywhere on the body, just sand off a bit of paint so you get a good connection). Thats about it. The solenoid only pulls about 1 amp so it isn't really going to overload anything. Zman, you can get rid of the boost controller if you have an adjustable actuator. Stock one isn't adjustable, but i don't know what sort of car you have so that doesn't mean much

Nothing wrong with the stock BOV for mild power upgrades, you're better off spending the 300 bucks on something that makes power K&N panel filter is a good first move, wont make much difference til you up the boost though. Spend the BOV money on a bleed valve! Or use a pod filter and you can hear the stock BOV pretty clearly, particularly at 14psi!

I have installed an HKS adjustable actuator to hold boost better at the top end. It's currently set for 12psi base pressure with the boostcontroller set up to give a quicker spool up and higher bost in the midrange but it still drops off to about 13psi at 6500 rpm. It doesn't matter too much as the turbo is running out of puff by about 6000rpm once you start to up the boost/power. My dyno curve drops off quite rapidly after about 6000rpm. Peak power of 164.2rwkw on 11-12psi at about 5800rpm .6bar will be fine on the stock intercooler, set to about .9-.95 once you get an intercooler for high boost. I think your gauge should be ok where it is but i have mine tapped into the fuel regulator line (the one at the front). As long as you are reading pressure off the plenum after the throttle body so you are getting a boost/vacuum signal. Use third gear so you aren't getting too fast on the road to check pressure at 6-7000. 4th at about 120 will give you a fair indication of your turbo response/lag. Longer intercooler pipes will mean slower response once you fit a frontmount. Hook the switch up to any switched wire under the dash, your stereo power on wire should do it.

Your diagram is right (but you didn't show the negative connection on the solenoid) R32s don't have a boost control solenoid so don't worry too much. I have a switchable single stage turbo smart wired in the same way. Be careful how much boost you wind in, limit yourself to just under 1 bar max. If the power ramps up too quickly (like mine at 16 psi) it will start to ping. You probably wont be able to hear it when driving ( i couldn't) but on a dyno the operator will spot it. Second thing is don't worry about your boost dropping off, it's just that the stock wastegate actuator cant hold that level of boost. Mine did it too. You'll need to swap it for an HKS adjustable or something similar to hold any sort of decent boost at the top end.

BCPR6ES-11 if you want to maintain a stock 1.1 or similar gap, BCPR6ES if you want .8 gap or less. I run bcpr6es-11 gapped to 1.05 no misses or anything. Dynoed at 164.2rwkw on 11 psi today with no pings. Found out my pnuematic boost controller brought the boost on way too quickly and the car pinged it's ass off, apparently, not that you could hear it while driving. You should have seen the near vertical power curve though (I wish I'd got a print out of that run)

OMG nissansilvia! You'll be doing a lot of filtering there!

Try talking with these guys, quite a few have done the same swap. http://www.silviansw.com/

The stock computer will compensate slightly for a lazy pump when running around with a fairly stock car, it's when you start to max out the injector duty cycle that you start to see problems with the stock pump not maintaining fuel pressure and leaning out. The problem with running a bigger pump is that the stock regulator/injector combination can't flow enough to maintain stock fuel pressure at idle and light throttle with the higher flow of the new pump. Have you reset the computer? Just disconnect the battery and hold down the brake pedal for a few minutes with the igtition switched to on. Then reconnect and the computer will revert to it's base program and readjust to the new conditions. Simple, but I know it's fixed a few other peoples problems.

It just works on 0 volts is full rich and 0.5 volt (i think) is full lean. They are also designed to tap into the factory wire and take the signal from there. I was a little dubious about this so when i installed my guage i installed a second lamda sensor. This caused the gauge to only read the rich half of the spectrum. That is the sensor puts out the full range signal, 0-1 volt, but the gauge, being calibrated to share a signal, can't get the top half. Makes you wonder what having an AF meter is doing to the signal your computer sees! BTW. On my old RX7 i used the same type of sensor and the microtech and af gauge shared the signal. The AF gauge worked perfectly but the microtech didn't seem quite right, it was fairly close though. As the microtech didn't use the signal for anything i wasn't too concerned

Just a few things you can check. What type of filter has been installed and how much oil is on it? Pull it off and check to see the AFM hasn't been coated in oil. Then i would look at the fuel pump because it's very likely that it's running rich. I have a 32gtst with pod, ic, exhaust and boost controller running up to 16psi on the stock fuel pump. Got an AF meter just incase but it sits in the full rich zone all the time when boosting so it isn't underfuelled (and this is the stock fuel system with no mods). I'd also check your plugs and see if they are really black (and i mean REALLY black, slightly blackened is good), which will indicate very rich running.

Lighter overall weight, better cooling due to the venting at the bottom and the top, and replacable disk while retaininging the hat

A big dump/front pipe is essencial for letting the very hot turbulent air get away from the turbine. Cat converters are very restrictive so bigger is better to improve flow. Revs are only part of the equation, it's total flow that is the deciding factor in the size of exhaust needed. Full exhaust can net you 15rwkws or so if youre lucky