BHDave

The new plates have an annual fee of 120 or something and no someone else cant get the same plate as you, can you imagine the problems with speed cameras and rego!

It would be difficult for that sort of device to be legalised due to the firing of a projectile with spikes on the end. Can you imagine the shitfiight if the cops aim was off and he put it through the window and into the driver/passenger? LAWSUIT, it is america after all!

I found that boost would drop off when using a bleed valve on the stock actuator, from 15psi back to 10. The HKS actuator allowed the base pressure to be set at 12 (which i use for a low boost setting) and with the bleed valve it now peaks at 15 and drops to about 13psi by 7000rpm. It's a very easy job, you just need to remove a bunch of intake pipes and the turbo heat sheild. Then it's just 2 bolts holing the actuator and a clip at the wastegate flap. Just set it slightly shorter than the stock one and go for a drive. Then tighten it gradually until you get the boost you want. Part number is 1430-RN006.

You can get a generic adapter from Turbosmart and have that attached to your new pipework by any decent workshop/welder in roughly the same location. It's easy while the pipes are off the car too, you don't lose the car for a day.

Thats a weird spot to see oil, mate. Remove the crossover pipe and clean everything up with a decent degreaser, then do a lap around the block and see if you can see where it's coming from. As it's clean and ontop of theengine you should be able to see any leaks clearly.

For 250 they should be using a synthetic oil and checking all the plugs, wheel bearings, gearbox oil level, coolant condition and level and a whole bunch of other shit that gets listed. And a new sump plug o-ring! That price is what a standard service from one of the big car companies costs using synthetic oil. They give a list of the shit thats been done and you can garantee they don't do it all. No way they check the plugs in an RB20-25, theres too much shit in the way.

205/55-16 is stock gts-t size and i think 225/50-16 is GTR size (could be wrong). They're about the same overall diameter too which is handy. Get the best ones you can afford, because good tyres will make a fairly big difference to your cars handling. Check out places with second hand rubber too, you can get some real bargains on brand name stuff at the better end of the tyre spectrum

You'll need a new dump too, because of the different outlet flange. May be worth while swaping the rear housing for a T3 item with the same specs (if it can be attached to a t2 core?). Custom lines are a piece of piss to get done. Just see pirtec/enzed for your oil lines and you can get braided with the correct size banjo bolts to suit.

Cefiro is the best of both worlds! S13 suspension (near enough) with rb power. And Dumheds NA silvia was pretty bloody quick for some reason(until he got t boned). Stock for stock I'd say s13 is quicker mainly because it's lighter. Modded the gap dissappers. For a daily driver I wouldn't have an s13 for anything. They've got no class!

Leave it alone, they get replaced as part of compliance so it won't be clogged up and causing a restriction. If you gut it you won't get much gain as it won't flow very nice, also the car will be louder and and smelly.

Cool. Just wondering for when i have to get new tyres Thanks Guys

The RB74's are on slotted disks, I think that may have something to do with it.

The cat back will give a worthwhile power gain and it is a bolt up so you won't have a problem doing the front/dump and cat later on. Mild steel is fine. Performs the same but doesn't have the pretty shineyness of stainless (not that you'll see it once it's covered in road grime) or the price.

Yeah, i wouldn't bother with factory pads

Anyone running 225/50s on their stock 32gtst rims? interested to know whether there is much overhang and also whether there is a shitload of tyrewall flex when turning hard Cheers, Dave

It all comes down to what you want to use the car for. You can get bendix ultimates for about 100 an end which will perform better than the stockers but i've found they don't have much initial bite. RB74s for 150 which i have and am happy with (except for the dust) which perform nicely all round for hard street work. Then there's green stuff which doesn't get a good writeup, endless, etc and the price goes up. 200sx, r32, r33, z32 all use the same size pad (basically anything with a 4 pot sumitomo caliper) hope thats helpful.

Hey guys, I've had a minor oil leak on the rear of my left side cam cover for a while, nothing major, just a bit of crap collecting at the back of the block because of it. Anyway, did a plug change on the weekend and noticed that ALL of the internal screws were VERY loose. Tightened them up and hopefully no more leak. Just wondering if anyone else has noticed this happening and if it's something to check on a regular basis as the screws work loose? Or is this an odd thing to find, like someones been into the top of the engine and not finished it properly?

It would depend on the offset of the rim and the total internal diameter of the rim. I'd say you have a better chance of fitting 32 brakes as they have a slightly smaller disk and as such I assume the calipers don't extend as far from the hub and also the calipers are smaller overall. FYI. I've just fitted larger disks and calipers off what i think in an R32 GTR Vspec 1 under my stock 16 inch rims. It required some clearancing of the caliper to fit but the disk is 25mm larger diameter with a larger sumitomo caliper (same pad size though) so I reckon you could do it.

So this makes my car a mongrel Got all the type M gear minus skirts and a GTS 4 front bar (guessing accident by previous owner) BTW has anyone ever seen a GTS-t with steelies (as mentioned in the link above)? Particularly amusing when the GTS non turbo has 4 stud alloys! I don't think there were different brakes though. All 32GTS-t's that I've seen have the same 4 pot brakes unless they have been upgraded to R33 brakes or better by the owner. Though if the brakes have to fit behing steelies than I wouldn't be surprised to see it.

Damn, can't beat that essay. It's pretty comprehensive. Get a boost gauge (100 or so), then i'd be going front mount intercooler (you can do it for less than a grand if you know someone who welds) followed closely by a pnumatic boost controller( less than 150). You can hold a bit more boost safely that way and a bleedvalve is cheap too. The stock actuator will have have boost dropping back to about 10psi at 6500rpm no matter how high you screw up the boost, so then you can get an adjustable actuator (HKS is 270).....and the list goes on. Don't forget suspension and brakes or you'll have a real fast boat that'll want to understeer into walls and guard rails and gutters and stuff

GTR pumps are noisier than GTS-t pumps. Most of the import nissans have a switching current thing happening so the pump runs slower at idle and makes less noise. Silvias and 180s definately have it. I'd be pretty sure the GTS-t has it too if your pump gets noisier off idle. Only way to be certain it's ok is to have it checked out by a pro if your really worried

I was talking to a guy today who reckons his brothers R32 had the HICAS start playing up when he installed new rear speakers. He'd be driving down the road and the car would start to crabwalk all of a sudden. Took the speakers out and problem solved (supposedly)

I stand corrected.

Yep, installation of this type of thing is pretty easy, it's the setup that hard. Id put them in, set them roughly and then drive it down to get aligned. Also, if the car is lowered then you will definately need the rears done aswell, they'll probably need it more than the fronts

Noise is actually one of the main considerations in getting the JASMA plate. A JASMA stamped exhaust is the Japanese version of an ADR compliant exhaust, except JASMA is an independent association. It isn't going to get the tick if it doesn't meet all the requirements, such as build quality, noise output, emissions, and probably others. It's a fair bet your TRUST system was getting old and worn out akeenan (and no I'm not having a go at you) but exhausts do get louder over time as the steel wool/fiberglass packed in the mufflers starts burn off eventually. If someone does have a brand new JASMA stamped exhaust thats noisey as hell then I would like to hear about it, I won't argue about it if I'm wrong. Cheers Dave