BHDave

just like 100 octane shell v power racing, it's limited by it's availability. So i won't use it for exactly the same reasons. It could promise the earth, but it doesn't matter if i can't get the shit. Now if there was a servo with a regular supply next to my house, wakefield park, oran park and eastern creek i reckon i'd give it a go

why would i want a 270rwkw stock suspension r32gtst (or gtr for that matter) when i can have a 210rwkw gtst with adjustable arms, coilovers, diff, clutch, swaybars, radiator, oil cooler and a set of cheap 17 inch rims and semis? On most tracks in NSW that would mean i'm down 10-20km/h at the end of the straight but for the other 3/4 of the track i am significantly quicker. I'd say quick enough to be 3-5 seconds a lap faster at wakefield, OP or OP south. Pretty even at EC. oops, quick edit, yes i do know what it costs to mod a GTSt. my definition of mods isn't necessarily limited to the engine as you can see.

I dunno, i reckon the guys trying to say a quick gtst is an expensive thing are kidding themselves. With an 8-10k difference in purchase price between a 32gtr and a 32gtst (and thats the smallest margin before anyone gets antsy about the thread starter asking about 33's) thats a lot of go fast bits before you are at the same dollars. Yes, i agree the gtr is the better car, it's the flag ship of the skylines. But we weren't asked which was the better car.... In terms of performance i think the extra money in your pocket (which could be spent on a bit more power, a bit more suspension and a hell of a nice set of tyres) would point you straight to the GTSt as 8-10k spent wisely on one would make it a lot quicker than a 20 odd k gtr. With a 33gtst you have the 25 to start with, even better, and around 15k to play with. but we all know teh gtr can nevar lose.....

you should be able to do it on the car. Probably not the easiest way to do it but still easier than dropping the box

I had a similar issue with superstreets on the rear of my r32 (it was only 340 center to guard though). front's were fine, they got down to about 310. As i bought them new locally i took them back and got them to fit a 50mm shorter spring with a helper in the rear as they weren't as advertised. In the end i got the rear down to around 310 from memory at the lowest.

the issue will be with the rear seal. no difference between manual and auto diffs as far as lengths and stuff go.

The most common reason for failure of the navara and GTR drives in r33 gtst boxes is not adding a new locating slot at about 180 degrees out

the only con is the conversion cost. after that it's all pros. You will spend similar money on either engine to get to your target power after that.

An r31 is about the cheapest starting point with good scope for improvement. Even an NA with locked diff can turn the tyres reasonably well. S13 is a better chassis but NA models are now as expensive as turbo models due to the p plate laws. If you are willing to spend a bit more up front (around 10k) you can get an srdet model with most of the good bits on it already. truck tyres? f**k no. Make friends with all your local tyre shops and go through their rubbish pile regularly. You'll get some reasonably good tyres for the price of the fitting generally.

The 235/45-17 rs cost almost as much as a 235/45-17 RE55. If you have a set of track only rims you will be a lot happier with the re55 (as in once you figure out how to drive around wakefield properly about 3 seconds a lap happier) I have 225 RS's on the front of mine for street duty and the occasional wet track day where they are excellent but as soon as the dry line appears the re55's go on as they are that much grippier. Another thing worth considering is the deeper tread depth of the street tyre, smaller tread blocks and softer sidewall don't feel very nice when you are really pushing and you tend to melt/feather the edges of the blocks a lot easier too. You will probably overheat the tyre so grip falls away further, it will happen sooner in the street tyre than the proper semi. i wouldn't even consider the SS for anything other than street duties.

I have a 24mm whiteline front bar and it's ok, i've had a good look at that bit of the sump over the last 6 months or so as i've been climbing under the car making various repairs. My sway bar looks to sit a lot further forward though, closer to the leading edge of the sump rather than back over the shallow section as yours is. is that pic taken with the wheels carrying the weight of the car? Maybe elongate the links to effectively rotate the whole bar clockwise (when looking in the direction of the pics) but that may lead to issues with the other part of the sump when unloading both wheels....

if you heat the paint up properly you should be fine

yeah, 5mm is pretty easy to get. You just keep the roller closer to vertical rather than angle the head as you do for a flare. I haven't painted yet and it needs a bit of tlc before that happens as the shape of the flare isn't perfectly smooth but the panel hasn't kinked and the paint is good everywhere except right at the lip where the panel is folded back on itself.

champiros are great if you don't mind ripping tread blocks off them. Mine started tearing on the dyno when i was making around 270rwkw. I currently have rt215's on the back and i can't complain. My car doesn't really get driven so i can't really comment on wear, I did a track day on them a while back and have done a couple of wet sessions since and they seem to have plenty of life left in them with maybe 5000km and, as a bonus, they haven't fallen apart yet and only cost me $180 each for 235/45-17's. I honestly think you will struggle to maintain traction no matter what tyre you choose.

I've bought a few things through him. Easy to deal with, quick delivery and he posts stuff before even asking for payment. If you are after obscure stuff that isn't listed on nengun or perfect run then he is my first choice. I'll generally get a quote off him at least even if stuff is listed elsewhere as i know he will deliver a hell of a lot quicker than nengun even if he is more pricey at times.

I'd be inclined to get a second alignment as it sounds like one side has significantly less caster

It looks like there was an egt sensor or something plumbed in there in the past. Just get it welded up at an exhaust shop. Your o2 sensors are in the dumps, not the front pipe. I will be very surprised if that is the casue of a misfire at idle. It's no different to a leaky exhaust...

Install them with the longer side facing the front of the car. On a GTSt at least the inside bolts have a larger shank than the outside ones. As your's specify compatible with both BNR and HCR i would assume it is the same on a 32gtr. So that means that only one end will fit the inner mount.

The guy at work is wrong on both points...... There are 2 or 3 fairly informative gearbox swap threads in this section which cover everything you need to know. In short; The box will bolt up to the engine the yoke is a different size you will need custom tail shaft work, the extent is up to you you will need a modified crossmember if your car was originally manual you will need a navara or 32gtr speed sensor and swap on the r33 gear and add a new locating notch. you will need to do a bit of wiring quick edit, you need an r33 slave cylinder too.

credit to matt mead for the photo. the front is a 235/45 re55 on a 17x9 +25 rim. gtr front guards ftw. I reckon i could fit 255/40's up front easily. I actually did the gtr guards specifically so i could fit more than a 215/45 semi. the rear is a 235/45 re55 on a 17x9 +35 rim. They fit under the rolled guards.I added about an inch flare so i could run the 9.5 +15 NS01's for street originally but have been considering a 255/40 with the other pair of 17x9 +25 rims for track as the current rears are pretty much shot. hope that helps some

I'll bite, 3 serious concerns with your response 1) I said healthy, not 100% healthy. My stock bottom end track only rb25det is far from 100% healthy (as i am sure roy's rb20det is) yet it doesn't even stain the catch can. 2) the pcv and piping will suck any oil vapour straight into the inlet manifold when the engine is cold, why would you want the added complication of running it through the catch can when potentially it is half full of oil, with the associated additional vapour? The pcv is doing exactly what it is supposed to do and exactly what you are recommending, why mess with it? If we were talking a dedicated track car with no emissions concerns then i'd block it, as i suggested earlier, and additionally vent the can with no return to the intake. Perfect solution for a track hack. Immediate defect on a street car. 3) Surely the job of the catch can is to catch oil? I would suggest if a 3/4 inch hose is insufficient for crank case breathing then there is a more serious issue with your bottom end. How much is your engine breathing if you are considering air speed out of the breathers? Again, as we are talking about retaining a pcv valve then we are talking street car, or at least a registered car, so i would suggest that spewing hot oil out of the breathers would be considered an engine issue when 99% of street registered r32gtsts will never achieve the cornering loads necessary to do it on a healthy engine. I won't make an issue of the picture making no mention of retaining a pcv valve as i will assume that the original block of text that went with it included that point.

Who did that diagram? They need to lay off the dooby..... Ignore the lines on the left hand side. The pcv only opens under vacuum anyway and in all honesty a healthy engine isn't creating a hell of a lot of oil fumes when it's driving around in vacuum. If you did want to remove it then you'd just block those rather than run hoses. The lines shown on the right side are correct. All you need to do is pick up the breather pipe where it comes off the passenger side cam cover and run it to the can, then run from the can back into the intake pipe.

Nah, it's not quick unless it's under 50 Perfect conditions though.

First time at OP south today, absolutely loved it. It also really highlighted some deficiencies in my cars setup. No changes to the car since my previous post (except it now has no front pads...) 0:51.013 (Natsoft)

are you talking 5mm off the inside or 5mm off the face? the r33/34 calipers have a greater offset so you don't need to worry about removing material from the inside. If you are talking about the front then a 5mm slip on is about the biggest you would consider, and even then it is border line depending on the wheel. You can shave the nissan lettering off to give you another 2-3mm clearance.