BHDave

The smell could be due to a dud charcoal canister

It's a good idea to increase the size of the pipe off the dump as it allows the hot turbulent air to to get away quicker. There is a slight gain to be had in power and response but it isn't massive. You will also get a little more noise/resonance over stock. BTW JASMA cat back systems are the shit. I've had two now, a 65mm Kakimoto which was very quite until pushed hard and now a brand unknown 80mm cat back which is quiter than the 65mm system. There is still a bit of background noise at freeway speeds though.

This is the illegal street racing law that came in a couple of years ago in action. I remember there was a big shit fight when it was enacted. Sorry sport but he got you fair and square. You may get off with a slap on the wrist when you go to court, you may not. I sure as hell cant say.

Yep, s14 is 5 stud and the rear brake conversion to s14/15 is a lot easier than 32 because of the handbrake assembly differences between s13s and 32s

Just remove the hoses further down the line where they are eaisier to get at and get them off the filter when its off the car. much easier.

I'd do oil, oil filter, fuel filter, check air filter, check/swap plugs, check gearbox oil level (or change it). If you do the timing belt then do the tensioners too Don't trust the k's on an import. look around in the glovebox for stickers from servicing in japan or check the log books that came with the car. Mine had 43000 on the clock when i bought it but i recently found a jap service sticker in the glovebox with 103000 on it!

I had this problem. Some buttons didn't want to work either. Pulled it open and cleaned all the contacts and switches and stuff with contact cleaner and cotton buds. Worked perfectly for about 2 weeks then the buttons went abit intermittent but she works most of the time. Display works fine though

My stock ones virtually fell out last week when i swaped them over for adjustables. They had stuffed bushes. The adjustable ones were set about 5mm shorter. I needed a mate to push pretty hard on the brake disk so i could get the front bolt in but that was it. I had it jacked up under the crossmember and my suspension doesn't have a lot of travel and it wasn't too difficult.

If you chop up the plenum and front mount the throttle body than you will definately run leaner on 6. In general the airflow on a factory manifold is pretty even. Unless you are really leaning on the engine it isn't a big issue.

Yep, your list of mods is pretty much the standard stage 1 upgrade. I'd go the intercooler before the boost controller and AFC, and then check the fuel pump is OK when you start to boost it. Don't forget about suspension. Stock 33s aren't brilliant handlers and the mods you have listed will really overpower the stock setup

Yep, it's about 2.5inch internal as opposed to an aussie 3inch exhaust which is external size. So yeah, it's slightly smaller than a 3inch. Pekatu, pm sent

Price drop to $250

Nah, it's just a regular nut. You only need a 12mm spanner i think

The whole assembly is held together by a single nut at the top of the strut. On the stock struts you can only screw these down a set amount before you pretty much run out of thread. This limits the maximum travel of the suspension. On the NRs there is a longer thread and so you can screw the top down further. It compresses the spring slightly and hence shortens the whole assembly and lowers the car. Hope I was clearer?

slightly, you can screw them down about an inch on the top.

Mine peaked at 12 then dropped to 10 with front mount, pod and exhaust, no controller. Turbo smart peaked set to peak at 14 then dropped off to 10 or 11 cos stock wastegate couldn't hold, NO SPIKES. Low boost setting went up to 11psi dropping to 10. HKS actuator fixed that. Got it set at 12 flat in low boost mode, peak at 15 in high dropping to 13.

It's a pretty easy job. Watch out when you are removing the bolts on the back of the turbo. They may want to shear. Hit them with some penetrating oil first and you should be OK. Same goes for the screws on the heat shield. The connector on the O2 sensor may be a bit brittle so just take your time removing it from the clip. The mount that goes over the end of thefront pipe that bolts up to the front of the cat converter may not fit back on. You may need to grind it out. I don't think there's much more to it, just use new gaskets and take your time you'll do fine. I didn't try to clean the O2 sensor, don't know if it'll help and heat wrap is a bit of a waste of time if you're using the factory heat shields, go the bleed valve

Price drop to $300

FYI = for your information. Jasma exhausts are pretty quiet. I've got an 80mm no name system with a jasma plate thats probably quieter than a stock local car when cruising around

bump

They're pretty old. The old SAFC's (like 1st and second generation) looked very similar. I remember reading about an engine swap, SR20 into a stanza or something where they used both an SAFC and ITC but at the time they were about 700 each so I couldn't fgure out why they didn't just get a microtech or something fo the same money. They'll do the job but I still say be very careful. Hey redline, did you cut and paste or do you really talk about new dimensions of tuning?

It won't do you any good because you're still running a stock cooler. If you advance the timing on it it'll be good for all of about 15 seconds and then it will ping it's f*%king head off (literally) once the cooler soaks up the heat. As with most gizmos that screw with the ecu's imputs, including SAFCs, boost cut defenders and ITCs, you can make some decent performance gains. The downside is that there is no real mechanisim programmed into the things for fluctuations of the input parameters after the initial setup. Basically what I'm saying is that there is a performance gain to be had but dont get greedy. Set it up on a dyno in the first place and don't go looking for maximum outright power figures. If it starts to ping on the dyno and you only turn it back slightly you can pretty much garantee that it will ping like crazy on a hot day in traffic. Adjust it in small increments and you will be happy with the results. Go crazy and you'l blow a hole in the top of a piston. Dave

and another

First pic

Kakimoto Racing 65mm internal cat back exhaust. Polished stainless rear muffler and tip with the usual kakimoto raised jap writing and sticker on the tip. Some scraping on the central muffler. Sounds beautiful, not too loud, no rattles. Will post some pics tomorrow night. Cheers Dave OK, $250