BHDave

Why not try it on the RB and if you aren't happy then swap it? You may end up costing yourself a bit of cash for no real gain. I know the PWR cores can flow 250-300kw worth of air. GTR cores flow about the same. The increase in pipe length with the front mount will cause the throttle response to suffer.

Better swaybars will give you a better result than lower stiffer springs, along with a good alignment. Tyres will make a HUGE difference as Duncan said. There is an abundance of second hand coilovers out there aswell for under a grand. Too many options......

That's it. Just thinking about stiffening up the whole lot. Plus if you have a look inside the wheel well you dont have any room to move the top of the strut around either. Not that it would do much anyway because you have dual wishbones in 32-34 skylines

Do the GTS-4s use the same brakes as a regular GTS-t? If so then you could get a set of 33GTS-t disks and calipers for about 400-450. Machine the disks say 20 a side and youve saved your self 100 bucks. Plus they use the same size pad so if you've got good pads already you can use them. Alternatively a set of good pads, if you don't have any yet will make a huge difference.

A dyno is a great tool for diagnosing problems. You can check a hell of a lot of things while the car is running that you can 't do when its sitting in the driveway idleing. Plus it's good for tuning like netrati said but no good if you don't have anything in the management that can be adjusted like a SAFC or an aftermarket computer

I've never had a problem with K&N filters, and they're a hell of a lot cheaper than the jap brands and come in a huge variety of shapes and sizes. I've currently got an M's stamped k&n very large cone shaped pod on my 32. It's goodcos you can now get the cleaner and oil from pretty much any parts place. Last I checked the smaller pods started at 140 or so and price increased with size.

A pillow ball upper mount is not necessarily adjustable. I don't want adjustable, if I did I would get an adjustable top link. I am interested to know whether pillow ball uppers will fit on stock type suspension as they should remove compliance in the suspension and maintain alignment while cornering hard. I have tien NRs and like the height and ride and dont want the added expense of coilovers right now.

Try pming ed. Hes posted some stuff at the top of the page on emanage and uses (or used) one on his R34.

Robo's right. A 10 degree reduction in inlet equals a 10 degree reduction at outlet, or pretty close to anyway.

Not that harsh Shitty roads make for much bouncing. I've found that concrete roads with joints are the worst to drive on. You tend to drop off the edge of each section. But I use the car daily for work and don't have any real issues with the stiffness of the springs.

NRs aren't height or damper adjustable guys. I've got some on a 32. Nice ride though, not that harsh. Camber adjustment on skylines is acheived by changing the length of the upper wishbone, not adjusting the position of the top of the spring.

Just remember Trust turbos have no water cooling and plain bearings, and they are based on truck turbos. I wouldn't touch the T3 with a ten foot pole unless it's been rebuilt recently, otherwise you have a very old turbo. Otherwise no problems.

Get slotted disks, they skim the pad and then don't glaze.

I had ultimates on my old RX7 and they didn't squeek. Lots of dust though. The shit pads on my Skyline squeal like mad when braking softly but not when braking hard. I'm pretty certain my discs are slightly warped though.

A proper rebuild on the CA will give you a fresh engine with forgies and rods for about 4000 or so if you remove the engine and take it to Roccos Performance. Theres a bokethere who loves CAs An engine/gearbox swap to a SR from an S13 will cost you 4000 minimum (front cut) and it's still an unknown quantity. Plus you have to do the swap and engineer it and dick around fabricating new mounts and pipes so It'll blow out to 4500-5000 easy. I'd go the CA rebuild unless you canget a SR engine that has a known historyon the cheap. It's easier and you will have a stronger engine at the end of it. Just my opinion.

"on the dyno, my car A/F ratio is a bit too lean, like around 12.5 " 12.5 is the perfect number. Almost every street car tune ive seen aims for this number.

I always thought that the reason cars are running rich at idle with bigger pumps is because the stock regulator couldn't flow enough to keep the pressure right. So higher pressure at idle and more fuel getting squirted in. I don't think a mild upgrade to a GTR pump will cause that much of a problem. You can always take a little bit of fuel out with the SAFC if it runs rich, or fit a bigger regulator.

If it's noisy i'd say the bearings are shot, it may have run dry at some stage. I know when i flushed my PS fluid and topped it back up the pump didn't sound very nice for a few seconds until the fluid had gotten all the way through it. Cheers Dave

I think the RB20/25 turbo share the exhaust housing and turbine wheel and it is one of the smallest on the mid frame turbos. When you get smaller, as in T25/28, the turbo has a smaller core. I don't know whether one of the housings off these turbos will fit. You'd still need to change the flanges on the manifolds though

Anyone have any experience with pillow ball upper mounts? They get sold separately from the other components by the jap suspension companies so i assume they can be mounted to regular suspension and not just coilovers. Just interested to know what is involved/replaced when using these. Cheers Dave

Stick it in a plug hole and disconnect the coils so she doesn't start, then crank it on the starter. Hopefully you have a gauge with a peak hold function. Don't know what it should read though

Sorry, I was thinking Super AFCs Stupid brain

There are two old ones. AVC-R has one knob (i think) and it adjusts the whole fuel curve up or down by thesame amount Super has 5 knobs which adjust the fuel at 5 points (funnily enough) and interpolates in between. Help some? Dave

Heavy as fire truck The V6 in stock form is a bit fragile if boosted. They can be made to look pretty nice and handle well and wil go well if you don't push the engine to hard with bolt on gear.

If you have two 3-1 manifolds so three cylinders are feeding 1 turbo each it wont work. You will be wasting half your exhaust gas. To get the boost response you want you would need to have a 6-2 manifold that has a shut off valve to one turbo to allow the other to spool up normally, probably slower than normal because of the messy manifold. You would then have a massive flat spot when you open the valve because you halve the gas flow to the turbo thats making the boost and have to wait for the other to spool up. Plus there is a hell of a lot of plumbing, have a look at a factory sequencial car, plus the fact that sequencial cars have 1 small and 1 large turbo. You will be better off with two smaller turbos on two 3-1 manifolds. get a pair of GTR turbos if possible, or a pair of T25s and modify the manifolds to a T2 flange. You will not get a good response from the 2 RB20 turbos, 5000rpm plus. Sorry mate