BHDave

until you see loftys improved production time in a starlet is still quicker

SAU Nickname: BHDave Car Make and Model: 32gtst nugget Circuit Name: Wakefield Lap time: 1:07.9310 (natsoft No 12) Modifications Engine: rb25det Power: 255rwkw for the moment Suspension: cusco comp 2 coilovers, Whiteline 24mm front and rear bars yadda yadda, same as last time Tyres: 235/45 17 RE55 well past the indicators on the rear Brakes: R34 GTT front with pmu hcr pro rotors and HC+ pads Body weight: Stock minus AC compressor, back seat and boot trim. GTR bonnet and front guards Natsoft arvo standings So Boz pulled a 1:05 out of the southern motor works exige today (running slick i might add....), does that mean my car has a low 6 in it as it stands?

Your car is not nearly nuggety enough to be called a nugget! Give it more than 14! It will be a completely different car to drive with 18 through the midrange. You'll need new semi's now!

A mate did a 2530 kai on a 25. It wouldn't make more than 215rwkw. He was so unimpressed he sold it within a month and bought a 2835 which was only slightly slower to build boost and went on to make 270. I got to do alot of the spanner work for both and have a quick test drive and in all honesty the difference between the 2 at the bottom end was negligable in all but really low rev cruising where you could have a heap of boost sub 2500rpm with the kai. As for similarities between the 2860 and the kai, wouldn't have a clue...

They don't make their own comp wheels. They have a few odd ball trims of the standard garrett wheels which are under license for a few years but still supplied by garrett. They have their own custom housings for some models. There are certain combinations of wheels that they have license on (t2 flanged gtrs/52t 2871 is prime example). But that expired a few years back and the generic garrett models flooded the market.

Input shaft bearings. The throw out bearing will only make noise when you push the clutch in if it's shot. It's nothing to be overly concerned about.

won't fit, it's the nugget t2 rear housing version with a cropped turbine. You can get another rear housing to fit it but by that stage you may as well buy a new one with the right housing and have some warranty. With the strength of the pound you could almost buy a new one in australia and have it shipped to the UK for 800...

Your link doesn't work. It'll depend on the type of 3071 as to whether it will fit or not

it was in a street machine years ago. I was still in my first couple of years at uni so maybe 13 years or so ago....

do a search for "full race". they built the r14 in the US http://www.full-race.com/r14/ there you go

brand and model of the exhaust? They sell trust, they also sell some rubbish

noisey how? As in you can hear it after the engine is switched off (normal) or you can hear it over the engine (pretty f**king loud)?

I've just finished watching Darker than Black. It's worth a watch if you don't mind being a bit confused by the story line. It's one of those ones that starts you half way through a story and you pick up more info as you go along. Picked up a 720p version of devil may cry last week. Still haven't watched it. Bleach seems to have entered another filler run with a couple of sub stories starting in the last few episodes. I'm actually enjoying shippuden, mainly because it's back on track. Yeah, after episode 135 Naruto is just short storys unrelated to the main plot line. I stopped watching and jumped to shippuden. Naruto 133 (i think) is a bit of a classic, right at the end of the main story.

At this stage i don't mind working around the midrange hump. It seems to be something i will be stuck with until i go either a larger housing or external gate, neither option i can really afford for now. Boost can be held under 1.4bar now so I'm happy about that atleast, even though it means running less than 1 bar at the bottom end. The gate blowing open is an issue that only a tighter actuator can resolve, the concern then is whether that will push the midrange creep up beyond the 1.3-4bar it sits at now. It's not falling back to the set pressure, it is generally falling to about 1 bar, whether it's set at that or higher. Sub 4k it is making a lot more power than the old setup. I did a bodgy overlay last night, as all my dynos are plotted on the same scale so very easy to trace, and 4k is about where the cross over occurs. I'm about 20-25rwkw down for the rest of the run, though on road it doesn't seem to lack anything. The peak AFM reading is also about .25V down on where it used to be. I would like to get atleast 10 more kw up top to make this whole exercise worthwhile. So who has a supplier for actuators? GCG seem to be a bit limited in that field. And who can give me some advice on a pfc boost control kit and how well it will handle this issue/what sort of tunability is there? I read the faq, it seems to be very basic (you set a target boost, but still have to muck about with a duty to get it to hold it?). Anyone have some thoughts or experience?

crowbar We ran a few different settings on the ebc and it would drop back to 15psi within 100rpm consistently. We added some more pre load on the actuator (it's a 16psi one) and it held for an extra couple of hundred rpm before dropping off. We were just confirming whether the compressor was out of flow or whether there was another issue. 99% certain the issue is the back pressure in the .63 housing holding the gate open when it should be closing. Where do you get your actuators from DM? I'm considering a 20 odd psi one as the 16psi one held all of 12psi with the big gate. Also thinking about a big diaphram model as they have a stiffer spring for a given pressure from what i've been told which may help with the boost drop off at the top end. So with the pfc ebc, does it have a target boost so it's constantly adjusting the duty to achieve that boost, or is it a straight duty thing? It has both in the setup screen on the hand set. I don't want to spend the money only to find it's a dumb controller with a worse solenoid than my current one. Everything with this turbo is a f**king balancing act.....

That was actually one of the possible ways to mask the issue we thought about. I have an old blitz dsbc so set gain, set duty and that's it. I am considering a swap to one that is more intelligent (such as the pfc boost control kit). It doesn't resolve the wastegate being blown open issue though (which i could possibly live with in all honesty as it seems to be less obvious on the street)

The run that starts at 16psi is on the actuator with ebc running. Can't remember which setting it was on as i'm pretty much over it for the moment The one that starts at 20psi is ebc off with the tuner holding the gate closed and at about 4500 back pressure increased and blew it open anyway At the moment the tune is a bit of an abomination. as it is so touchy with egt's and boost climbing i don't have the option of removing a lot of timing as temps increase so it's got a bit of extra fuel in the bottom 5 rows of the map. Once i get over the utter disappointment of this nugget turbo and suppress the urge to sell it i'll have a think about what i'm going to do.

put the bcpr's in. They are the correct plug for the rb20. Technically, if it was an rb25 you should use the bkr plugs which will be the same length as the ones you've pulled out of your 20. In practice, it makes no difference.

Well i still have boost control issues. And once again the dyno and the road boost responses are different enough to make it hard. In a nut shell, the midrange creep is still there on the dyno. It'll come up to about .9bar on the actuator only (with some more preload wound in), then slowly creep up to about 1.3bar by 4500 and then roll off to 1bar and go dead flat to redline. Switch on the boost controller and it'll go to 1.1 bar, creep up to about 1.4 bar and again rolls off to 1bar. Enlarged wastegate flap was being blown open by back pressure. We could hold it shut and make more boost. On the road (3rd gear runs as there is no way i'm going to try and watch the boost gauge at over 200km/h) the boost curve, for lack of a better term, was similar but it was about 1000rpm delayed. The peak of 1.4 bar hit about 1000rpm later and it still dropped off but it didn't get below 1.3 bar by the time i hit the limiter. dyno sheet to follow later on.

I don't know if it's me getting crankier or the standard of questions and responses getting dumber. Here's my take; 300+ rwkw and stock suspension is up to the task? I think not. Sorry, but thats about the dumbest thing i've heard all year. It may squat all the way to the bump stops but what happens when you want to turn a corner (or brake or drive out of a corner for that matter). Yep, 15 year old suspension that was designed to handle all of 140 rwkw when new is almost certainly up to the task of handling 300 odd rwkw without breaking a sweat......nissan certainly know how to engineer their cars to last! Was the sarcasm obvious enough for everyone? R32gtst's are between 16 and 20 years old. Do you think the original shocks going to be all that good after 16+ years? I'd suggest as a minimum you replace the shocks as you will have added about 100 rwkw on top of the factory output. I have a 32gtst with an rb25 that has made as much as 288rwkw. I have coil overs, i don't have traction issues, i can also corner. 3 very simple things contribute to this. Alignment, tyres, swaybars. Anyone who likes to make the sweeping generalization that coilovers mean no traction has no clue about suspension. Sorry, but it's that simple.

I may be up for this. Just depends on what mood the car is in after Autosports and whether i can make it happy again in time...

lol, silver gives my front end more grip, gunmetal means the rear has less roll. wtf has this got to do with suspension, brakes or tyres? i have to ask? This is certainly of the standard expected in FI these days. +1 for Basti's suggestion.

Probably a very silly question, but do you have to counter steer when it happens? If not i'd say you are just too agressive with the throttle on corner exit and the tcs is effectively modulating the throttle for you. I'd suggest if you aren't countersteering when the lights flashing at you then the car is probably neutral enough or maybe even understeering. All it's doing is preventing a bit of power over.

Full boost at 4k for the .86 sounds about right, though to put it perspective a GTRS will make 1.4bar at about 4100 on an SR and make another 20rwkw over a disco as well. I just got deja vu. I'm sure i've written a near identical response somewhere else.... You're better off with the smaller one. Note that HKS only make the 2530 in a .64 as well. It's virtually the same turbo as a disco except for a very slight trim difference on the compressor. How much power are you after? How much bottom end are you willing to give up? what are the intended uses of the car?

Sold! One step closer to clearing the credit card.....