BHDave

you didn't answer my question moei? Are you embarrassed that you don't think you are a better driver than this old bag? I'll happily put my older car with less power against your "better" car on a track and see who comes out on top if you'd like? I do already know the outcome though. Nice attitude chris btw. you can afford a 32 but you can't spend 200 dollars to get on a skid pan or track for a day? kudo's to you and your fantastic attitude.

try a couple of the polyurethane bush manufacturers web sites noltec nolathane whiteline fulcrum (i think they have the superpro catalogue) I think they all have on line catalogues I had a quick check of the superpro catalogue as i have downloaded it previously when i was looking for bushes. They list an outer but not an inner. One of the other manufacturers probably list it. just found a noltec catalogue, they list a full front upper control arm replacement set but don't specify whether it's gtr or gtst specific (i don't know if there's a difference). It's worth giving them a ring.

Scathing isn't missing the point at all. Road driving is 90% attitude, 10% ability. The only time you should need to step up is if something out of the ordinary happens. I've been driving now for 14 years and i still wouldn't class myself as a good driver. I know i'm better than the average clown as i've never had an at fault accident but that doesn't make me good. And i'm sorry, but MRGTR911 you fail on attitude. I would suggest you'd be slower around a track than scathing as well, even with the extra 130 odd kw atw as i know he can drive... A little story to entertain everyone which relates to something scathing said earlier; My first car was an 81 sigma. I owned it for 5 years. I bought a S4 rx7 next and had a 2 month overlap owning both cars. About a month after buying the rx7 it broke down and needed some part or another, i can't remember now, so i took the sigma. I took the same corner i had taken every day for the last 5 years at the same speed i had been taking it for the last 5 years and i near shat myself. Why? because in a month of driving a sports car i had become used to a good handling car and forgotten how much roll, how much tyre squeel and how unsettled the sigma was in the same situation as it was much closer to it's limit than the rx7. It doesn't take long to forget. I'm pretty cautious on the street these days as a result of that one experience. I don't assume just because there is a posted speed limit that the car i'm driving can do that speed. Don't assume just because you have only ever driven a car that handles better and goes faster that you can drive, i would suggest the opposite. You have likely never been in a situation where you have entered a corner too quick for the chassis despite being below the speed limit, you have never been in a situation where the brakes aren't up to the task of pulling the car up and you have to swerve to avoid an acco. In short, you don't have the built in safety margin that someone who has learned in a shitter has. You have 9 years less experience on a road than i do and have never driven on a track from what i've seen, possibly never done any advanced driver training. Do you think you can drive better than i can? It's a pretty big call and i'll happily admit i am not a gun track driver (or street driver for that matter) but i do have that extra experience.....

proper semis will be rubbish without a warm up. if you have something like a 595rs or rt215/615 thats been scrubbed in it's the tyre to have in this sort of event. Something that has highish grip but doesn't need a lot of heat to get going. I've found my RS's to be pretty damn good on a skid pan I would have loved to have been involved in this but i have work tomorrow and the car's still off the road. Hopefully next time. I so want to drive that back bit of track .

are we talking front or rear here? just get some new poly bushes. 1/4 of the price of a whole new arm and locally available. Any suspension joint with a 10T press can get the old ones out and fit the new ones in less than an hour if they are half switched on

it's the hard line that goes from the plenum and throttle body outlets to the bov (short one) and charcoal canister (other 2) It bolts to the stock cross over pipe

my gtst doesn't have a check engine light. It flashes the exhaust temp light instead As far as i knew no 32's had a separate engine/exhaust warning light, they share the same one. When you get the stock ecu to give you the error codes it also flashes the exhaust temp light. There's a single wire coming off the ecu for the check light anyway. Not a hard job to strip a section near the ecu and check for a switched earth (I assume earth as it seems to be the more common switch on the ecu) with a multi meter set for continuity and earthed on the other probe. You could start the car and listen for the annoying beeps if you have knock set to 1 as i'd expect it to have a nice little 5-10 point spike on start up.

are we talking RS or SS? I've found that the RS own all on a wet track in my car. A touch tentative under brakes but ultimately very predictable with pretty good grip. They don't compare to a proper semi in the dry though. 2-3 seconds off the pace.

12 positive. so even with injector correction at 68 it's still rich? You can usually chuck a 550 single pintle in there with no correction and it will idle pretty well, slightly on the rich side maybe, due to the lag difference between the stockers and the new ones. I'm surprised yours is running rich

set it at 68% to give yourself a buffer set lag around 12 It should be a bit rich based on the ratios but the extra couple of percent covers for differences in the linearity of the injectors, if that makes sense. keep an eye on the knock. If it's a bit high, bump the injectors up another couple of percent

yeah, but no one believes you when you say you got a 1:10 and it's not on natsoft.... I'd be interested in the OP day as well boz

.63

The enlarged wastegate. 39mm flap, and as best i can measure 34mm port at the top. They couldn't fit anything bigger without machining into the turbine outlet to fit the wastegate arm (you can see where they had to take a bit out already) It's a shame about the bit of a lip at the bottom taking up some of the area, but unfortunately you are limited by the housing design and taking any more out there will reduce the wall thickness significantly. Anyway, i'll give it a go. I have a new 16psi actuator to fit up as well so if i still have boost control issues then garrett may get a nasty phone call regarding selling a housing that can't even bypass enough to maintain stable boost on the smallest of the turbos that it fits...

if you have the fc and hand set there's no reason you can't set the afm and injector size and latency corrections and drive sensibly to the dyno. It has a reasonable base map. It's not that hard. pauls faq covers it all. And the joy of the pfc is that if it knocks, the pfc will tell you, so you just pull a couple of degrees timing out of it on the fuel/ign menu (i think) or just drive with less throttle input.

oh yeah You've listed 3 of my mods exactly Whats he doing with the car? if track work ugly as f**k jap 17x7.5-9 wheels all round (the uglier the cheaper) 235 45 17 RE55 SP2's whiteline adjustable swaybars That'll come to 2300 give or take, mainly dependent on how ugly/rubbish offset/damaged the rims are say hello to 5 seconds off your pb at wakefield (easily). if you want 2k of power in an r33 with rubbish stock ecu: second hand blitz ebc china front mount kit safc tune chuck in some sway bars for good measure. I can't help but look towards handling mods Stock clutch is good for 200rwkw (just) if you are nice to it. be nice until you have another 700 or so for a clutch

+1 BUT! don't get the gcg one. Even though the rubber lines have a flame proof sheath they aren't melt proof...... One of mine was lucky not to have melted through and dumped the coolant everywhere. The other one is pretty heavily discoloured even though it was tied close to the block well away from everything hot. Luckily as the turbo is off having the waste gate ported i have the opportunity to get it fixed.

more often than not, if something starts playing up after you've made changes then it's related. So yeah, i'd say it's almost certainly related to your work around the bov. You shouldn't have needed to play with the idle mixtures (unless you changed them when installing the blitz one) so i'd suggest that there was an issues there straight away and it's getting worse. Check for a split hose on the feed as well.

i'd be up for that. If it's going to happen let me know!

lol. so whats the plans for the track nugget? store it or wreck it in spectacular fashion? But not spectacular enough that you can't fly obviously.... If you decide to do wakefield, i want to be there. It'd be fun to see how my nugget compares to your nugget

read the regs, you may have skimmed them but you obviously haven't read them, take particular note of the mention of the axle type. gtr and gtst do not share common axles.... You can do some mods, gtr front panels for instance, and be fine. But stick on the GTR wheels and you are stuffed. You aren't going to be asked to take an emissions test if you have a stock car either.... There's no point in sugar coating it, if a cop wants to defect you or me they could do it easily. I'm not trying to preach, i'm not in a position to as i can guarantee my car is probably more detectable than 99% of street driven skylines on this forum, it's basically a registered track car. What i'm saying is don't accept the bullshit that you read on this forum as far as what is a legal mod and what is an illegal mod. The RTA website gives you the regs, read them. Be aware of what is legal and what is illegal, be aware of what a cop is going to look for when he pulls you over which is; pod, bov, too loud, too low. They are the 4 most common defects. Despite the fact that my car is a rolling defect i have been let off. Why? because i have a stock air box, i have no bov, the car is just over legal height, and i was so f**king courteous i felt like throwing up. The exhaust at the time was easily over 90dB at idle, i have a fixed bucket, i have gauges on the dash, i have no back seat, i have aftermarket suspension arms, coilovers, ball joints, steering arms etc etc. I cant be stuffed arguing about whats legal and illegal or interpretations. The information is available on the RTA website so go and read it. All i'm saying is be aware of where you stand and don't cry when you get done for one mod or another. If you were pinged for a stock bov then you have an arguement...

Saw that, i'd be impressed if it was a gtst didn't giant pull a 1:03 on the old surface prior to going to japan? New surface is still quicker, even if it is falling apart in places.

provided the stock flywheel and pressure plate fits inside the rx7 bell housing i'd be using them with an appropriately sized mazda friction plate to match the splines on the box. Obviously you'd need to have some sort of bell housing adapter. I'd have thought it'd be easier (and cheaper) to run the 25 box and go a custom gearbox cross member and tail shaft. My old S4 rx7 box was weak as piss....

Charlie, without trying to start a shit fight or start throwing insults around, please confirm your injector size (don't just tell me they are 740's, take the number 1 plug off and confirm the colour, i'm assuming they are nismo's), the fpr base pressure and the fuel pump and wiring being used. 740's should be capable of a lot more if the rest of the fuel system is up to scratch. Don't start claiming dave is the greatest tuner ever and what he tells you is gospel. Your results are significantly different to other results so find out why. Do not accept what one guy tells you. Either the dyno is reading low (which i know bel's doesn't) or there is some other issue. Book in a run with UAS, CRD, Unigroup, JEM, whoever and get a second opinion.

duck and cover mcgee, you are unfortunately the enemy to many people, despite seeming pretty reasonable, and they are looking to pull you up on any perceived error. so saliya, and mark, where in the light vehicle mods guideline does it say you can install an aftermarket exhaust without emissions and engineers reports? Or how about wheels seeing as it's your example, have you read the guidelines on the mods there. You may want to before jumping into an arguement with your interweb law degree. Do you have 7.5 inch wheels all round? i hope you do because any bigger requires engineering on a gtst. You don't by chance have 8inch fronts and 9 inch rears, thats pretty common? I really hope not as the 8 inch front requires certification and the 9 inch rear is outside of what even an engineer can certify. I won't go into offset, but would again suggest you have a read. How many people seriously get done for wheels, other than for having them out side the guards, or so big and chrome that the rolling diameter can't be maintained? Rather than continue and turn this into a rant, i'll end with, get off your soap box and understand the limits of owner certifiable modifications. It is very very restricted. It is there to allow people to install things like sunroofs, up speced factory wheels, fog lights etc. It isn't there to let you install a front mount, pod filter, atmo bov, big exhaust. Those things all modify emmisions and do in fact require testing and engineers certification. if you are lucky enough to get let off on any of them, lucky you. If you do get done then suck it up and get on with fixing it. Blue slipping a modded car isn't as easy as you'd think. Those guys DO know the regs.

no, you don't have to go the epa, just the blue slip. They have to test the volume as part of the blue slip procedure i believe. The dirty number plate was his excuse to pull you over (maybe thats the new random breath test). The fact that he charged you for that on top of the defects just proves he was a prick.