BHDave

Just specify 2 things up front. You want the waste gate ported as large as possible and you want an actuator rated as close as possible to your expected minimum boost. Do not accept a softer actuator and expect to just wind preload in. You will compromise peak flow out of the waste gate and as it's performance is already marginal you will introduce boost creep issues. I don't think a 3071 will do much more than a genuine 280rwkw, the compressor just doesn't have the balls. So yeah, the 3076 is the turbo to get if you want 270rwkw with the potential for low to mid 300s. As far as streetabilty is concerned, the 3071 small compressor, big turbine and small turbine housing gives a very early boost threshold. You end up with a reasonably linear curve and avoid the rapid power increase at 3500-4000rpm you'd have with a bigger compressor and the same rear end. I'd say it's very streetable and perfect for the lazy driver (like me) provided you don't expect to crack the triple ton.

heh cry me a river. It's advertising, it doesn't need to be true, it just needs to snag a few morons. They're at least 10 years behind the Europeans with diesel tech and about the same behind the Japanese on build quality and finish (at least on the JDM gear). Shit, my BA falcon ute still doesn't have proper climate control, my 92 gtst did....until i ripped it out. We are considered a bunch of backwards consumers by everyone. do you seriously think they would accept a car in japan with 2 big arse knobs for fan speed and temp in place of a proper climate control in 2008? f**k no, yet aussies lap it up as it's all they know.

I want to see that. It will give hope to hack 32gtst drivers like me

z32 all round if you want to do it that way. s13's don't have front upper control arms, z32's do. my rear LCA's have z32 bushes in them. all the rest at the back are interchangeable between r32, s13, s14 and z32 plus others i suspect. The front is all z32, though i would seriously suggest finding an online seller of nolathane, noltec, whiteline or superpro as those 4 companies offer specific r32gtst listings. And don't forget to measure your rear LCA bushes before ordering, there are 2 different sizes.

yeah, but it shouldn't. It is only supposed to twist. The links at the wheels should be vertical (well sort of when you are playing with adjustable bars) They shouldn't be pulling the bars sideways. If they are then the bar is f**ked and should be returned as it's been made wrong. Thats why i asked for pics. To ensure you have it installed right and not pulling it one way or the other

it shouldn't be moving horizontally at all! It should only twist. do you have a pic of the point where it's catching and a couple showing how it's sitting under the car and at the wheel? Just to address r338oy's comment. Whiteline really need to take a long hard look at their QA because i've seen a few examples that should not have made it out of the factory. A mates s13 that is maybe 20mm lower than stock has all of 80mm ground clearance due to the front sway bar being the wrong shape.

i don't either

lol, i can't argue with the results. though you should maybe clarify low revs vs low road speed

actually, quick one.... Where's your other 40km/h before redline I'm doing near enough to 200kph in 4th with my 4.3's

you aren't seriously hinting an auto with high stally is the best investement!

i run an older model, i can't even hear it over the noise of the engine on the dyno, let alone when driving, and it's the same solenoid....

they are a major supplier of oem injectors. There's nothing to be concerned about. The plus side, an S6 550 rx7 denso injector costs 2/3 of what the same injector in a blitz box costs.

Thats fine abu. I run mine the same at the moment, though i do plan on reinstalling a can at some stage. I ran without a catch can for 3 or so track days with no issues. I found the can was always dry afterwards so wasn't worth keeping when it got in the way of reinstalling the stock airbox

if it seems to have improved i'd say you already have your answer I drove around for a week or so with mine unplugged prior to locking it, though if it's going to be a month before it gets sorted maybe just make up a couple of 3mm thick alloy washers and lock up the rack that way.

depends on the car, the tune and how open/straight your exhaust is. Mine did it with the cannon. Dunno if it does it still with the big rear muffler installed. A mates sil80 with nothing but a cannon won't do it, same with his s13 race car with no mufflers.

Is your mechanic mate fairly switched on or a bit of a retard? If you asked about smacking them out with a hammer and he said no, then fair enough, but seriously, if you cant press them out then how are you going to remove them? You will need the correct sized dies and you will need a small press or a decent sized bench vice. If you don't have either then give up now. I have removed and replaced all of the ball joints on my 32gtst with MFR roll center adjusters. I then swapped to s14 front LCA's so pressed out the RCA's and pressed them into the the s14 LCA. It's not rocket science, you just need the right gear to do it.

Matt, no idea what his surname is, never needed to know. small guy, glasses, dark hair, eyebrow ring.

i went with a small trapezoidal box from autobarn. It only just fits and you will need a sub optimized for a small enclosure to make the most of it. I managed to fit it while retaining the spare and all boot trim. I removed it all a month later when i started going to the track

The best would be whatever fits the spot you want to put it and works out the cheapest. There are plenty of generic cans out there for under $100 and they all do the same job. Personally, i'd get one of the trust copy (drift branded) square cans, take the lid off and add some baffling made from alloy sheet you buy from bunnings, and it will perform as well as any other can you can buy. They have a rubber seal so it's not an issue to take the lid off and replace it. Unless your car blows all it's oil out of the breathers obviously, then you may want to look for something with a bit more capacity....

in current garrett speak that would make them 1:1 compressor to turbine ratio! 60mm comp (presumably from a disco) teamed with a gt30 rear (obviously cropped to fit in a t2 style housing) shame the pics don't agree with my theory I'll leave it to someone more familiar with t25/28 turbos to comment on what they really are.

different turbine housing which is more compact with the wrong flanges different lines so you have to go and buy lines different compressor inlet so you'd have to do something there different compressor outlet the list goes on.

what about debate on turbo choice If you are buying a new kit you can be assured of getting every single nut, stud, gasket, joiner, hose clamp blah blah and it will fit up with no problems.

Yeah, unigroup. They're doing well. Yavuz is the only one still around out of the original guys i think. Funnily enough, another mate went to uni with them as well

manually check the ecu switched power feeds with a multimeter. If it's getting power you have killed your ecu (doubtful) If it isn't you've killed a fuse or fusible link, maybe even a relay. double check the fusible links and fuses.

i think pmu are a bit optimistic with the cold temp. I find they take one big brake to get them warm enough to work properly. They work okish when cold but the feel just isn't there. $250 an end delivered from nengun atm. getting cheaper every day. Actually, boz22n, could i get a pm off you about your supplier? I wouldn't mind trying another pad if it's only a couple of hundred an end cheers Dave