BHDave

Mine was by no means ballsy at those revs either, just thought it was funny how low the thing got going and had still made 260rwkw without even trying. It's not something i do regularly, i was just sitting in traffic and thought i'd play, for science, and because it's all still shiny and new.

I assume you are referring to 32gtr brakes and not another set of gtst gear? You don't specify just the lines. don't worry about the rest. The regular gtr rear brakes are the same as 32gtst anyway. If you have intentions of tracking it please get some appropriate pads and fluid as well.

Rip one of the stockers out and compare it. It's only 2 nuts. The turbo side one is pretty easy to get to.

my rb20 had one. the 25 doesn't. i wouldn't be worried one way or the other.

I'm also interested in his results. I momentarily considered the bigger turbine but just couldn't do it. I am a self confessed response junkie. I am happy to accept a choked top end if i can put my boot in at 3k and get a decent amount of boost. Actually, kind of related. 5th gear, flat road, i have positive pressure at 2k and .5bar by 2300. It's silly. Anyway, back on topic. I had a look at the pics i posted earlier (page 2). I'm pretty confident that a larger wastegate could be fit in there easily. It looks like the current one doesn't fully cover the whole machined surface either so, as you said dale, not a massive job. I'll be having a run on a dyno next weekend, so i can confirm that the actuator is opening the gate fully and not causing a restriction that way. I really hope people aren't waiting on my results. I had hoped to be sorted by now.

I'm not sure what you mean by production upgrade housing. I was under the impression that the garret IW housings were the same between the 3071 and 3076 as it's the same core and turbine, just different front end. No idea on the relative sizes of the wastegate, I've posted some pics of the turbine housing earlier in this thread if that helps. How much metal needs to be left to ensure a decent seal on the wastegate flap?

I finally managed to get mine road worthy again yesterday. Swapped for another known working actuator that i pinched off a mate, went for a freeway run and had a play at low boost. The problem is still there, but i found that if i bought boost on slowly it would stabilise at .8bar for about 1000rpm and then start to creep up. I even had a play with the boost controller and i could bring boost on, get a 1psi spike, drop back and hold boost steady for 500rpm and then it would start to creep, so that seems to be able to effect the boost response and isn't just crapping out. I'm starting to think the wastegate size is the issue, but dangerman had no issues, maybe because he runs significantly higher boost so less is by passed, maybe because he has a bigger compressor so isn't bypassing as much at low revs anyway. This week i will be ordering a new actuator anyway. Somewhere around the 16-17psi mark i think. If that doesn't work then the turbo has to come back off and the wastegate port gets enlarged.

1,1.5 or 2 way. They are all the same under acceleration. Unless your car is badly set up it won't push too much on acceleration (talking rwd here). I'm not saying you won't have the odd corner exit understeer moment post apex, but it's generally corrected with a slight lift. Same for exit oversteer. It comes down to set up and throttle control. Deceleration is where the differences start. If you're braking in a straight line, they are all much the same. You may feel a slight bit of understeer with a 1.5 and 2 way when you lift off the brake and turn (again set up dependent). I find that if you run a bit of toe out on the front it's not an issue, alternately trail brake. Or if you brake in a straight line, lift and turn in and it wants to go straight, dab the brake again and watch it turn. If you are braking in a curve with a 1.5 or 2 way, you probably won't notice, but people watching may comment that you are braking slightly sideways. wakefield turn 2 with shit rubber is a really good example if you go wide at the kink. Botch a down shift in that situation and around you go if you aren't ready to catch it. If you get a 1.5 or 2 way and set up your car accordingly they will be both be fine. If you are worried about shuddering on 3 point turns you may want to stick with a viscous You definitely don't want a nismo 1.5 way (not the pro), tightest diff eva! I wouldn't bother with shiming the stock viscous, it's a short term solution, and it may as well be locked when it is doing it's job. Honestly, what ever you get, you will drive around it. I would suggest a 1.5 way, but i know guys who are consistently quicker than i am who have 2 ways. I only suggest 1.5 way as it is the happy middle ground and can do both track and drift work well enough, where as the 1 way is a rubbish drift diff and the 2 way is a bit too tight on decel for track work

I'd be interested to see whats in the kit. All installed inc fabrication of new intake piping (which is incomplete, no bov or bov return atm), new dump and front pipe, turbo, lines silicone joiners i didn't already have lying around, spacer, new studs, gaskets, nuts i reckon ball park 2900 cost all up, 3k if you do the head/manifold gasket. edit, you posted while i was typing. stock lines would save 250 on their own, though i'd be interested to see it. how do you get around the spacer issue with stock lines?

I also run project mu's. no issues here. But i've only run wakefield so no huge braking efforts, only from around 190km/h. I still have full stone shields and no ducting too. I'm running an r34 GTt setup on my 32gtst.

define ripoff. If a $300 set of pads lasted 3 track days, yep, rip off. If they last 6 days, thats 50 a day, they are starting to look pretty good, If they are 6 days in and still have 50% left on them would you still class them as a rip off? I've actually spent more on cheap rear pads in those 6 days than i have on the one set of fronts. And by cheap, one set was $130 and lasted a day (actually 5 20 minute sessions, 2 of which were wet) Still think they are a rip off? I think my $300+ fronts were worth every cent.

Are you sure about that turbine trim? It should be the same as a 2871 rear end. The only way you could make that turbo usable is to replace the whole front end. I would suggest .5 A/R generic t04e comp cover and backing plate, with a 71mm 52 or 56 trim compressor. By the time you get the work done and supply the parts it'd be cheaper and easier to just find a second hand replacement 2871 on NS and sell yours. They all seem to be going bigger these days for some reason, you may even find a sucker to buy yours

Is it just me or can you see more loose crown wheel bolts in that pic?

mark, yes, you have 4 pots.

it's probably a slight leak on your manifold to turbo gasket. I wouldn't worry too much about it at this stage. Once your car starts to sound like it has a jet engine as it comes onto boost, then swap the gasket. Regarding the power figure, don't worry about it. You're in the ball park. There are guys claiming 220rwkw with stock turbos, i think they are full of shit as are their tuners. You are at the other end of the scale. Just remember, you don't have full management so your safc tune is going to be a compromise and you have no control over the timing. There's probably more power in it with a stand alone ecu.

They can do it just fine. Once you tell them you don't care about tyre wear and you won't be back in 2 weeks complaining about bald inner edges they will do what ever you ask for. My local bob jane adjusts my front and rear toe, front and rear camber and front caster. I wouldn't expect them to have the time or the gear to corner weight or adjust traction rods so i don't ask. It's the difference between $500 and $50 alignments back on topic. I run rs595's on the front and rt215's on the rear. It's a waste of money, except for the odd time i get to the track and it's too wet for proper semis. If you have an aggressive alignment you will destroy the things driving on the freeway anyway. As mentioned by djr, don't run a proper semi on the street either, they need heat to work properly, when they aren't hot they are worse than nankangs and will have you up a gutter before you know what happened. It happened to me when i was young and naive, i have a $250 rim repair bill around here somewhere to remind me not to be so stupid in future

mines supposed to be around 13psi. With bugger all preload it would do around 7. I've already accepted the one that came with mine is rubbish. Was your's a GCG supplied actuator as well andrew?

Thats really interesting. Mine peaks higher but is over a shorter range. It held a steady 16psi between 5 and 7.4k. Could this issue be due to the size of the gate? I've always associated an undersized gate with boost creeping up at the top end, not what we are seeing here....

yeah, i know. Its the coilovers vs "coilovers" argument again. But there are 2 distinct ways of achieving the same result with a stock ecu. replace the stock prom, or slap in a daughter board. I would not class a daughter board as a remap, it implies a different method.

pride bragging rights putting your propaganda back a few years..... There's always something to lose

Mine are gone. I have no issues with mangling looms and my car was silly low for a while there. It really is a big problem on s13's though. Once you remove the inner guard the next problem is chewing up your tyre on the mounts on the guard (cut the tabs off), next one is the seam where the strut tower meets the guard (bash it flat), if you're still scrubbing then you can gain a bit of clearance by rolling the guard and pulling it out slightly, but you lose the look I kept my driver side one up until i swapped to gtr guards as it gave the oil cooler a bit of protection. The tyre used to polish the screw heads but i had no other issues

we'd both be slower

straight from the source....

The r32 stock air box is a good thing. replacement panel filter and a new cai feeding it. You cant go wrong.

I'm not as my car doesn't qualify for either category, rb25 swap so i'd have to be in open class and no cage so i cant be in open class....plus i really am a rubbish driver. tmb considered it for a little while, but decided against it. He falls in the middle ground as well. He'd have to remove the cage, refit the interior and buy new tyres for street class, or get eaten alive on the straight in open.