BHDave

I got mine from mu secret years ago for $310 These days it's cheap and easy to get them in from japan. Nengun list them for $245 delivered but if you want them quick id suggest talking to one of the many private importers around.

nistune uses a daughter board, as opposed to a remapped chip in the stock location

yes, it would make it worse. Find out what VCT actually does before you decide to remove it.

someone is impatient! yes, it sounds like it has been set to 10.

it's not. it's an hour install at most and then a tune. Link 3 Sydney workshops who can do the job are listed. All have a good rep. I'd be talking to all 3 before making a decision. edit: SAS used to be your only option about 5 years ago. Not anymore. They still try to charge like they have a monopoly

So that'd be boxhead then? Chris, the goblin snapped a gudgeon pin a few months ago so the engine is out and stripped awaiting new parts atm. I believe omg is a consultant on the build.

never bothered to check Up until recently i'd spend the time between sessions making sure none of the nuts had fallen of my turbo/manifold/dump

Not yet unfortunately. I've been pretty busy this last week. I've got a few actuators off a mate to try, just need to knock up a temporary mount. The hump sounds very similar to my issue though no where near as bad. do you know if the wastegate not fully opening is due to the dump or the actuator? Mine can open fully without fouling on the dump with the actuator disconnected, though i didn't get to see what it was doing on the dyno.

Thanks brad, I'll give martins a go on the lucas gear as i am working 10minutes from there atm so it's easy to drop in at lunch time. If i have no joy there i'll give you a ring. Chris, more boost If the ultimates are doing the job id suggest you really aren't working the brakes very hard (thats not a bad thing). I rate them quite highly as a street pad (because i don't care about dust) but it doesn't take much to overheat them. I'm generally a bit reluctant to recommend the HC+ pads as they go for $250 plus per end (mine actually cost me $310 a couple of years ago) which is a pretty big outlay for brake pads. But they work lap after lap, the rotors aren't wearing, the pads are barely wearing, and i don't get shudder or any other annoying brake problems. I really can't fault them as a street/track pad other than to say their cold performance isn't great.

nup, just hate gear oil. And diff oil.

Sounds good. Any leads on a local supplier? and cost?

either spend $20 on the little pump bottle or $20 on a pair of circlip pliers. I like doing it from the top. It's clean and easy. You always end up with half an arm covered in gear oil if you do it from under the car

went through my 3rd set of rear pads at the track. lockheed delphi or delphi lockheed 50-550 rated pads went from 95% to metal in 4 sessions at wakefield. felt nice, but rubbish all the same if they can't last a day. ferodo zeros last 2 days atleast and are under half the price and constantly in stock at supercheap front project Mu HC+ 6 track days and counting still around 50% pad left. Out brake anything of similar weight (except a mate with a sil80 and the same pads). Still can't fault them. I'd be interested to hear if anyone is getting decent life out of another pad on the rear as i am about to buy some more rears and the HC+ is top of the list atm

washer bottle i suspect, maybe big front bar?

Dude, no. What ruins forums is people who post the same old question for the 5000th time. And then get offended when it's pointed out. ffs search you humourless nub.

thats a vtec sticker you idiot! typeR ones are good for another 1k added to redline I'm assuming the thread starter is fairly new to all of this so i'll cover the basics, some of which has already been mentioned. You can just add boost. a bleed valve or ebc will do it. It's virtually useless without freeing up the exhaust first. In terms of the basic mods, exhaust, intake, intercooler, boost controller, management, injectors & pump, afm, turbo in that order There is a lot of information floating around, check the sticky dyno thread up the top to give an idea of what mods do what to power.

the search function is your friend. There were a lot of guys doing this swap a couple of years back. Search the tutorials section for a thread by predator. It'll be the most comprehensive write up on the actual engine swap. There are a couple of good threads on the gearbox and speed sensor swap in this section if you look at page 2 or 3 i suspect.

I'd also go for s13. You can go pretty fast in them if you spend a bit of time on the handling side. The probelm is that it's hard to have a daily/track hack. Mine is basically a registered track car these days. I drive to the track, flog it, and either drive or limp home depending on the damage I would not want to drive my daily transport on a track, you couldn't push for times as you'd be scared to damage it.

Thanks for the comprehensive reply SK. I really appreciate it.

Just a quick question on this. In a 32GTSt which has shorter lower control arms than a 33 or s14 etc, how badly will the ackerman angles be affected if you jam the longer LCA's into a 32 with the corresponding tie rods? couldn't you just play with your toe angles? The inner mounting points are identical, obviously the hub is different (but by how much? could you use an r33 lower half maybe?), and i know that r33/s14 caster rods are a fair bit longer but if the 2 arms are moving in the same plane i'd have thought that would have a no noticable effect on bump steer.

my input in bold And if a 3071 can't fit without a spacer then nothing will. The garrett turbine inlet is smaller than the nissan manifold outlet as mentioned in DP03's post so there is some work involved in matching the 2. Luckily, as you need a spacer you can grind that out and not the turbine housing inlet.

Not really. the car can still twist the same as ever. Front strut braces are ok as it ties a point thats close to the inner upper control arm to another point close to the inner of the other upper control arm. so yes, they are good at effectively boxing that section of the car and yes, it improves it. The same can be said for the rear to a lesser extent, as the upper contol arm mounts to the subframe so bracing the strut tops has less effect. The load of the rear struts is almost all vertical, only minimal horizontal. They don't move towards each other or away from each other to any great extent anyway, the main concern is the vertical loading. Whats bracing against that if you have a strut brace running horizontally? And again, whats stopping the front end of the car twisting one way while the back twists the other? It's effectively a torsional force so bracing two rails together to form a ladder is doing 2/5ths of f*&k all to brace against it.

same turbo with different exhaust housing is 280rwkw capable though. for 200 ideally get yourself a hks 2510 or 2530, pricey and getting old though if second hand. The problem you have is that all of the small frame garrett turbos are t2 flanged, the smallest t3 flanged one is the 3071. You could get your stock turbo highflowed, but even they are generally optimised for power around the 250rwkw mark so you have the response trade off. Or you could talk to a turbo shop about getting a t28 cored turbo fitted to a modified stock exhaust housing. I would suggest a gt2860rs if you are going to be happy with low 200's, 2871 if you want a bit more.

more boost required.

price dropped to $550