BHDave

I generally go and have a drink of harden the fu(k up and it comes off first try after that

I wouldn't bother swapping calipers. get your lines swapped for braided, get some good pads and run a decent brake fluid like motul rbf600 or the equivalent high temp penrite. Then run it until your rotors need changing and replace them with a quality 2 piece unit (i'd suggest project mu HCR pro based on my limited experience) or alternatively, if you feel the brakes still aren't up to scratch at that stage,then get the bigger rotors and new calipers damn, beat me to it roy!

I tend to think there's a lot more to picking a turbo these days. What do you want it to do? dyno queen, drift hack or something in between? I tend to lean towards the smaller end of the garrett range. There just seem to be a lot of guys putting 3076's and bigger on otherwise stock engines and being slapped with a response penalty and not making the most of the turbo. I don't see the point of that. I'd say even a 3540 is too big for an otherwise stock engine. I don't know if you have a built engine btw. You may be able to make the most of a 3540. The 3076 comment isn't directed at you either mafia, you seem to be 1 of the few who is willing to really lean on your setup. When are you going to cam it?

The sum of the parts of the fitting kit doesn't equal the $680 price tag. The base turbo is certainly cheap, but once you add in the fitting kit you may as well talk to your local turbo supplier as the price will balance out. Just a word of warning for the uninitiated: The specs listed for that turbo are not 3071 specs. If you want to see the proper specs then go to www.turbobygarrett.com and look up the 3071. It lists both the cropped and uncropped versions. I have no idea why you'd want to run a t04s comp cover on a 3071. The fact that it's listed with a .7 cover makes me think they either don't know what they are listing, or they have mislabeled the turbo. The one in the pic is a t2 flanged i/w version of a 3071 though. 550hp is a bit optimistic as well. the .71 turbine housing is most definately not a genuine garrett unit, though there's nothing wrong with them if simons results are anything to go by.

If you were doing one side at a time you were probably fighting the sway bar. If the whole front end is up in the air it should be pretty easy to just push it down If you havent done the rear yet, then just make sure you get the whole back end off the ground and both old struts are out before you install the new ones. It'll make it a hell of a lot easier.

Just waiting on natsoft to be updated and i'll add a link SAU Nickname: BHDave Car Make and Model: R32Gtst Circuit Name: Wakefield Park Lap time: 1:08.93 or 94 (cant remember) occasional drizzle during the session Modifications Engine: rb25det, garrett 3071 IW (with overboost issues) Power: dynoed at 250rwkw during the week at 16psi, but seeing as i was controlling boost with the throttle it's a bit of a guess Suspension: Cusco Comp 2's, s14 front LCA's, cusco caster rods, JJR front adjustable upper arms, D project rear adjustable upper arms, no hicas, everything but the front LCA's have poly bushes Tyres: RE55S SP2 (MH?) 235/45-17 all round Brakes: R34Gtt Pmu 2 piece front rotors with HC+ pads, DBA longlife slotted rear with delphi 550 pads (rubbish if anyone wants to know. 1 day and they are shot) braided lines, rbf600 fluid. Body weight: minus rear seat and AC compressor, gtr guards and bonnet I had a good day links http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....03/2008.WAKE.P1 http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results..../2008.WAKE.P1.I You've gotta love the freak lap .8 quicker than any other lap on the day!

So i ground a hell of a lot more metal out of the flange, no difference. I'm actually starting to think the issue is with the actuator as it had about 3mm preload on it today, and within half a track day it wasn't keeping the wastegate shut anymore. You could here it rattling when i got back to my garage. Going to try a new one and see what happens. In real life it doesn't actually drop back down. The turbo may as well be non gated based on it's performace today. Though, if anyone is interested. This turbo is an absolute animal of a thing on the track. basically boost on demand. I was applying throttle based on what boost i was seeing on the gauge, I reckon i was using between 3/4 and half throttle for most of today and i dropped 2 seconds off my pb at wakefield.

you have very low expectations. 3076 will have that response and make a fair bit more power 3071 will have significantly better response and make that power. Why 15-16psi? Thats not a lot of boost. Id suggest cams if you want to gain power but still run lowish boost. The 3071 cart you have listed has the cropped turbine. With your reference to the .71 housing i assume you are chasing one with a copy OP6 housing? Thats the right cart for that housing. SimonR32 has some good results with that one.

nice work. Now run it and make sure it's ok and then track day saturday! wooooooooooo..............

so is it fixed yet?

You must be stupider than you look Springfield. Stupider like a fox!

There's nothing inherently wrong with a bushed turbo. You don't see 15 year old s13's spitting out compressors every 10k. My last turbo was bushed and that copped a flogging for 2 years that i owned it without missing a beat. It wasn't water cooled either. Hopefully the new owner gets plenty of enjoyment out of it too. I can't really add any more at this stage other than you are either very unlucky, or you have missed something on both your installs. You don't still have the stock banjo at the block end or something like that? Have you tried cranking the engine with the oil feed off and see if it is getting oil through? There's nothing wrong with a k&n panel. I run one myself as do numerous other members. What sort of intake pipe do you run? is there evidence of paint/chrome/rust flakes on the inside? The 3071 seems to be the turbo of the moment. I have a few teething problems atm so i'm not going to say it will or won't meet your expectations, but an initial lazy run of 260rwkw on 16psi looks promising, as does the boost response if you can keep the gate closed. I just have to work through a boost control issue at the moment which i strongly suspect is dump pipe related and hopefully it will be good.

My gate pipe is also 2 inch What i said was the hole in the flange was originally about 1 1/4 inch centered directly over the wastegate flap. I've cut the flange larger so that half of the outlet now merges cleanly with the 2 inch pipe thats butt welded to the flange and the rest is sort of bell mouthed. I also posted pics of the initial rough enlarging. 3 inch main as well. What surface rust? I've got a breather plumbed back in and an oiled filter. The pipe is dry for about the first day of running then it gets this nice light film of oil which stops rust. 5 years and counting without a sand blasted compressor or a dead engine (actually 8, i forgot about my rx7 which also had a mild intake pipe). Everyone likes to go all alarmist about mild steel piping but I'm yet to see a problem. Stainless is a wank, it's shiny and a prick to work with. If you are serious then get aluminium and at least get a weight saving out of it. If you want something functional and cheap then mild will do the job. I can go and get a photo of my last intake pipe thats done 2 years of duty and show how little rust there is on the inside if anyone would like to see. I'm not here looking for criticism, I'm not looking for praise and i'm not looking for advice, I know what the problem is and it's not the size of the piping or the size of the wastegate it's solely to do with the merge from the wastegate into the pipe on initial opening. Im documenting what issues i have found so that others can at least benefit from it. The next stage is cutting more metal out of the flange to try and get more area for the exhaust to get around the waste gate flap. The stage after that is redoing the waste gate pipe to match the shape of the flange to give the maximum possible area.

Unigroup are at girraween. They are the only tuner i will go to (which means a 45 minute drive for me). An added bonus is that they will do after hours work if you can't get there during the day, though you do need to book it in. I believe 2 class winners in the dyno comp at summernats this year were tuned by them as well. I've been going there for the last 5 years now and i can't see that changing any time soon.

It'll be fine as long as the grommets where your loom goes through the firewall are still intact and everything hanging in your inner guards is secure If you are removing the inner guard i assume your car is reasonably low so you should consider chopping off the tabs on the guard that the inner mounts to. They can really make a mess of your tyres.

Absolutely, I run hks 256/264 in my S1 rb25 and vct still works.

we initially thought that was the problem, but after dropping the gain it made little difference and then turning the ebc off altogether and it was still there.

by high 20psi i mean closer to 30...... I was in the drivers seat watching the tuner with the car at 2k in 4th, he jammed it shut and gave the thumbs up, i flicked the load switch and floored it and by the time i looked at the gauge and realized what i was looking at it was well past 1.5 bar so i got off the throttle. On the screen it had peaked up around 28psi. Neither of us had expected it to come on so quick after the initial runs coming on so slow. We were just checking to see it it was a creeping actuator before looking at other options.

you have an rb20/26 inlet gear. so you need an rb20 cam. The only difference is the front end where the gear bolts up. Shouldn't you have figured this out before buying stuff? You're atleast in a position to do a direct comparison between a 264/264 non vct cam combo vs a 256/264 with VCT. I would expect the 256 with VCT will be the choice for drivability.

Ok, My dump is rubbish. When the wastegate opens it's blocking the outlet so i get a big 4-6psi bump in boost as it comes on. When it comes back down it's stable at the top end, but unfortunately as i add boost, the hump gets bigger so i couldn't really test the limits. We did an initial run at 16psi (with a 22psi hump) and it spat out a lazy 260rwkw uncorrected in shoot 6. Couldn't really play with the gain to bring it on quicker, but did a quick test with the wastegate held shut and saw high 20psi under 3k before i could get off the throttle! took some timing out so it would be safe for a track outing, hump got bigger! egt's increased and span the turbo up more......

http://www.tamperedmotorsport.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=228

Nooooooooooooooooo.................. rb's should be kept away from S chassis'. The people who don't know think they are great. The people who know say otherwise. You'll seriously spend lots of money trying to get the thing handling right and it'll never be as nimble as an SR20 engined equivalent. Like any car, if you look after the cooling, concentrate on suspension and braking mods and keep the power reasonable there is no reason it won't be reasonably reliable, unless you are liz, who must have won lotto in her previous 4 lives or something.

Nah, out of rego by a couple of months, just haven't had much of a chance to work on it and haven't been bothered to remove the rear plate yet. It was trailered.

tampered motorsport are running a day at wakefield this weekend. $140 inc timing, 50 cars max.

I'd suggest s13 based on what i've experienced. The black thing i was driving on the weekend was doing 1:11.9 in my hands. It has at most 160rwkw, some tien flex coilovers, cusco swaybars, adjustable rear upper arms and adjustable castor rods, and s14 front LCAs. Stock ecu, injectors, s15 turbo, Intercooler and a decent radiator and an oil cooler. GTR front brakes. The AC, carpet and seats (other than drivers) have been removed so it's almost full weight. As it stands it owes the owner under 5k as he bought it with most of the stuff in it already and sold off the pretty rims and near new bride drivers and passengers seats. The best ive gotten out of my r32 with 120rwkw more and a lot more suspension and brake work is 1:10.9 and the r32 owes me well over 50k as it stands