BHDave

Abu, i've sent a pm. I don't really want to separate but i will consider separating the dump and wastegate pipe as i can't see it effecting the sale of the rest of the kit too much (especially for r33 owners). We can chat via pm. Daryl, at this stage no, but by all means send me a pm and make an offer if you'd like. At the end of the day I can see me getting stuck with the turbo and no interest i if go down that path though.

weekend bump

who'd you go through ryan?

yeah, straight turbo price was 2150. You're paying an extra 200 for the actuator and bracket straight up and there's a premium on the proper garrett IW housing too. It's not significantly higher than an online seller though and the fact that they are 20 minutes from home is an advantage when the shit hits the fan (if it ever does). consider an ex gate 3076 goes for an average of 1800 these days and it's not far off the mark.

check the size of the turbine housing mate. .64 is gt28 size IW housing. .63 is gt30. I know it sounds like i'm being pedantic, but for 2600 you want the right one and not the t2 flanged nugget. It shouldn't need a spacer with the .5a/r compressor housing if it has the right turbine housing Incidentally. Direct quote from GCG for the proper one last week was 2,450 inc the fitting kit but i do the rotating of the housing and install turbine and actuator and shit like that. Pick up. Doesnt include gaskets

He means what brand is your external gate? The gasket sheet at repco isn't exhaust gasket material so it will just burn off the instant it gets hot. Black silicone is not temp rated high enough to put on a manifold. Plus it's not o2 sensor compatible so it will kill the sensor get some gasket material from an exhaust shop.

what you should be asking is "does this sound like a 3071" because is doesn't. I'd be interested to see a link.

Then you have the right tyre. Pity the guys running around on semis on a wet day

nothing wrong with those. The way you were talking i thought you were just about on the canvas....

Not really. You only need the yoke and front uni off the r33 shaft. The rest is useless to you You don't need the 33 pedal box (i don't even know if it would fit in a 32). The 32 one is fine. You don't need a 33 master cylinder, 32 one is fine. You need the 33 slave. The 32 line fit's it. Is your 32 an auto? sounds like you have gone off an auto-manual conversion guide rather than a manual to manual. If it's a 33 box then it'll be a push type. Your existing clutch will fit no problem as the 32 is a push type as well. 32 bell housing won't fit a 33 (or 34) box. It's a half hour job to get the r33 cog on the navara drive. You may as well do it straight away as the lack of a speed signal messes with a few things in the r32.

front no rear no :laughing-smiley-014: the photo doesn't do it justice. They stick out by about an inch modified guards i'm sure you can manage on the rear as i plan to do that. On the front you will struggle. You'd have to really mangle the guard, also have to run some skinny tyres maybe. i fitted a set of gtr front guards, the wheel disappears under them.

price drop, and bump.

I did something similar, but povo style. I removed one of the hoses on the plenum and pressurised the plenum with the TB closed. I sprayed soapy water everywhere and watched for bubbles. You can get a few psi even doing it this way and it was enough to tell me my IACV was leaking. (I had a problem with vacuum at idle decreasing over time to the point where the car couldn't cruise without miss firing badly) Lazy bastards way is better as it does a better job of sealing the system.

the kit is designed to hook up to all the standard piping, both intake and exhaust. If you have a one piece front and dump pipe you will need to remove it and just get a normal replacement front pipe. the hks dump has the right flange to bolt up to a standard front pipe. I've installed one and it's honestly a dream to work with. But, you are paying for it. A kit at the moment is roughly 3300 on nengun delivered. A gtrs kit is cheaper as it uses the standard outlet flange so your existing dump can be used and it has a standard size inlet flange so your standard intake pipe can be used so it's about 400 cheaper straight away. Still needs lines and a few adapters for the hot side piping though.

Anything pretty Anything that doesn't contribute to the performance of the car The most common one is rice lights. They're everywhere, vans, utes (sorry mini trucks) excels. Aftermarket gear knob, definitely rice. Whats wrong with the stocker? If it falls apart and starts cutting up your hand, fair enough. Most of the wheels on the market, rice. I'm willing to accept my 17x9.5 +15 NS01's are rice. They are my street rims and are only there to look pretty. My track rims are mis matched second hand pieces of crap that i don't care about so i can repair with a hammer if necessary Big stereo, rice, on a few levels that i won't go into tints, rice. wear sunglasses and park in the shade. save that 25 grams in added weight. spoilers of any description are generally rice. Most do nothing to improve the performance of the car. A spoiler on a factory car, factory rice. A spoiler on a car that never sees the track, just rice. big brakes with alloy hats and mono block calipers can be rice in certain situations. If the car never gets driven hard whats the point of having them other than because they look tough as hell? When ever you can see that form is being placed ahead of function you can reasonably call it rice. My friends and i all track our cars and are fairly serious about it. We have a pretty harsh definition of rice.

Double your estimates and add some. You haven't included the oil and water lines. The kit's aren't exceptionally good value, you could reasonably reproduce whats in the kit for about 200 less if you do your own running around and fabrication, but if you can't, then it's custom work and that costs money. I would have bought the kit for the extra 900 just to save hassle. Then it will just bolt right up and you have all the little adapters and short studs and nuts, oil and water lines, intake pipe, silicone bits, dump..... but yes, for 260-270rwkw the 2835 is definitely the turbo to have. adz, the dump pipe is not a bolt up. the hks turbine housings are a special bit of gear and don't match the Nissan flange.

kind of. The r33 strut is a bit longer. So stock for stock, no. with a base adjustable coilover you should have no issue I trial fit a pair of r33 tein front colovers to my r32 a couple of years back. At their lowest setting while keeping the 300mm spring captive it was around about where you'd want the height for optimum handling, but still a bit high for looks.

It's a dyno day, not a dyno comp. If they can't be stuffed putting the probe up the exhaust they are being lazy. I've got a 3.5 inch exhaust with a cannon. It's never been a problem, it's never even been raised. And if they cant be stuffed putting a pipe up the exhaust can you honestly see them wanting to shimmy under the car to install the o2 sensor? The whole point of these days for most people is that they want to know what their car is doing, whether it's afr's are safe, what boost it's actually running as opposed to what the gauge is saying, whether it's pinging. Which raises another question. Did the operator hook up for a boost signal subie? Or was it a roll on strap down, run up, roll off. Tell me someone at least listened for knock. Point taken on the bung duncan. I'm making a new front and dump pipe soon to suit a new setup so i may do this.

If it's a remap then your options are limited straight away as not everyone can do them. Try unigroup at girraween, I've been told they have the nistune/plms gear so can real time tune your stock ecu. A remap is fine, provided you get the right one. I would only recommend a tuner with real time tuning of the stock ecu, which in nsw seems to be very limited. DrDrift has a different version but unless he has someone full time based in sydney these days i wouldn't bother.

Some redline products are fine for use, others are not recommended. Some of their gear oils are specifically for non syncro gear sets.

You're better off keeping the rear stage and running the cooler off it rather than blocking it up.

It's the outer CV joint. It's just old. If you can put up with the noise then just leave it as it isn't going to fall apart or anything catastrophic.

If you can't afford to do it right then just leave it alone. Don't tool around with interim turbos and stuff, just leave it and save up for the right turbo(s). Also consider that even though an sr/ca turbo has the right flanges, the turbine housing is different so it isn't a bolt up option.

The D project ones i use have a poly bush on one end which is slit so you can slip it over the rack and a 2 piece one for the drivers side which have steel inserts with fairly stiff rubber on the outsides so you can slip those on either side of the rack and then seat the whole thing back down and put the stirrups (dunno why it says syrups earlier in the thread ) back on. All going well under 2 hours.

Some do. S13 and R32 share caster rods, rear upper arms and traction rods (front upper arm on the rear) as far as cusco are concerned. Also the front caster rod braces. No idea on part numbers. I just look at the pictures normally