BHDave

bump for the weekend

r32's dont use camber tops. You have to get an adjustable upper control arm, whether by adjustable bushes, or a whole replacement arm that has some form of adjustment. The rear is the same, though much easier to get as it's common to the s13 as well so plenty of options. Front strut brace definately, rear strut brace if you have a spare 150 dollars

I suppose it comes down to how good you want it to handle and how you want to go about it. There's a hell of a lot of info floating around in this section but in general: Don't buy a $1300 set of coilovers, no matter how pretty they look. Don't get silly hard spring rates. 7/5 would be the sensible upper limit (and i'm sure some people will say thats to hard as well) Get some form of adjustable caster rod (I'm not going to go into the benefits of poly over rose joints here) Get some form of adjustable upper arm for the front Get some form of adjustable upper arm for the rear Get some swaybars Lock the hicas Get something to tighten up the rear subframe (either re bush, alloy collars or poly pinapples) Get some good tyres or you've wasted a lot of money on the other bits

Would you be overly offended if i said your brother and your dad are retarded? If his aftermarket wheels and tyres maintain the same rolling diameter as stock (as they should if they are a regular +1) then it's no different to having a space saver on one corner and stockers on the rest. Regardless. All the thing is there for is to get you to a tyre shop. If the car crabs for all of 15 minutes while you head for the local bob jane does it really matter? It's certainly better than being stranded on the side of the road, or better yet, leaving the car there with one corner held up with a scissor jack while you wander to the tyre store (after waiting an hour or so for a mate to pick you up).

A 235 RE55 is a big tyre. It'd be close to a 255 road tyre in width. On a 9 inch rim there is no stretch. It sits square. To fit a 235 RE55 under the front of my gtst i needed gtr guards and i run a 17x9+25 rim for track work with around 3 degrees camber. I previously ran a 215 AO48 on the front with a 17x8+30 rim with stock guards. Even that was close. I actually have those wheels and tyres on an s13 atm with s14 LCA and about 3.5 degrees camber and it doesn't scrub at all and isn't an obvious offset fail

You should have enough room somewhere around the diff housing to slot the drive shaft past the housing and then feed the splines back into the hub. On an r32 there's room above the diff to do it

It's only held in with the 36mm nut at the hub end and the bolts at the diff. If it doesn't slip out just get a bigger hammer seeing as it's already buggered. You don't even need to remove the exhaust if you have the room to get at the nuts and bolts, but i usually just drop it off the hangers to make life easier. There's plenty of room to get the shafts in and out either way.

so in a track 32 gtst you'd actually space the rear of the subframe down a touch SK? how much are we talking about?

You've done the hard part now. All thats left are the 5 bolts at the diff and you pop the drive shaft out. Depending on which side of the car it is you have to drop the exhaust to give yourself a bit of room. You might have to tap the driveshaft out as the splines tend to bind up.

The simplest way: s13 engine crossmember and steering rack (so you can use the s13 power steering pump and lines) Modified s13 gearbox crossmember (you need to elongate the holes) use the r32 speed sensor in the s13 box I'm 99% certain the r32 tailshaft is reused without modification Lock the hicas. Get an s14 radiator from a locally delivered car as it is thicker than an s13 one. You can either modify the s13 fan shroud and run the viscous fan or just go thermos. Then it's just wiring and stripping out all the redundant hicas and power steering crap. The gear stick actually come out a bit further back so you need to enlarge the hole in the transmission tunnel. It's not a hard conversion.

There's an L shaped rubber hose on the back of the plenum that feeds the line around the back of the head. Jam something in the end of it and hose clamp it so it won't leak. There's a threaded hole in the block at the back where the other line attachs. You can get a proper bung from pirtek which has a rubber oring in it which works well. I've had mine blocked for 2 years. no problems. The throttle body circuit is separate to the turbo so blocking it off wont cause any problems and is a hell of a lot tidier.

It'll be the real one. I already have a quote and i was very specific about the turbine and housing

Thanks mate. Only made the decision this afternoon. I figured i could sacrifice a bit of top end for a bit more bottom to midrange with improved transient response that comes with bb turbos and simplify the whole lot by going a proper garrett IW housing on the stock manifold. It's also a bit less weight over the front wheels and water cooled which can only be a benefit on the track.

Item: HKS cast low mount manifold suit rb20/25, t3 flange Age: Unknown, bought second hand 2 years ago Condition: reasonable, manifold has a bit of residue from oil and wd40 from removal, some studs need replacing. It has a crack in the internal divider thats been there since i bought it but no external cracking. The mounting faces could do with a skim Price: $850 ono now $550 ono To Fit: Was fitted to an r32gtst with rb25. Location: Eagle Vale NSW Contact: by pm. prefer local buyer so that you can make an inspection prior to purchase Comments: I've sold the turbo, pipes and wastegate, I'm a little surprised that everything else has sold and not this Anyway, here's some pics of the bits. Cheers Dave

Your terminology is correct enough that i know what you are talking about The only reason i'd suggest steering clear of the RCA's is that they effect the track and camber once they are installed. I had major issues trying to regain front camber after i fitted them (s14 LCA was needed to get me back to around the 3 degree mark). Rear was ok as i had adjustable upper arms but i then ran into problems with the inside of the rear rim scrubbing on the LCA (it was close to begin with) until i spaced it out a bit further.

I really hope you have wide guards By the time you put a 235 re55 on those wheels i reckon you will need at least 30mm extra width on each side at the front and maybe 20mm at the rear The only s13's i know that have been able to run 235's up front with stock guards have been dumhedz NA nugget thats at almost stock height with pretty ordinary offset wheels and too_much_boosts sil80 and he also had to wind the front height right up to stop it scrubbing with pretty ordinary offset wheels (he had to use a 2mm slip on to stop the tyre hitting the strut as well, so pretty poor offset).

I'm taking about actually attaching the cage to the stock seat belt mounts up on the b pillars. I thought that was what sk was getting at....

I just re bushed mine with noltec poly jobs and added some mfr roll center adjusters on the rear and copy ones on the front. I swapped to an s14 front LCA recently to get more camber/track so need to rebush that eventually. They're not adjustable so its just a case of setting the ride height to maintain the LCA geometry, and then play with ride heights to alter your roll center if you want to do it that way. You don't run your car that low anyway do you roy? You may as well save the money on the non adjustable RCAs

Just a quick question for SK regarding the additional brackets on the hoop to attach to the seat belt mounts. I have only ever seen it once (added to a cage on yahoo auctions) and i thought it was a pretty bloody good idea to brace the top half of the shell like that, though how much benefit is there really? It's not exactly a common thing (is it?)

Personal opinion here. I wouldn't worry about most of the bushes straight away if they are in reasonable condition, definitely get the caster rods. I would add adjustable rear upper control arms and alloy subframe collars to the list.

They'll do as a starting point. They are plenty hard, you could probably drop a kg/mm or 2 at either end when the rest of the package is up to scratch. Get sway bars.

All the early ones are mitsu units. dunno about the late ones

yeah, that makes more sense. though at the end of the day you can ignore the marks on the harmonic balancer as they are only there to help set the ignition timing and nothing else. Only the crank gear and the notch, and the cam gears and their marks on the back cover matter. And the genuine nissan belt has marks as well incidentally. double fail safe.

but they line up with different marks....

you won't need spring compressors. You just pull the hub downwards (or upwards) and slip the bottom of the strut onto the mount. when the car is jacked up the whole assembly is at full droop so when you remove the strut it may sag another inch or so. You just man up and lift it back up when you have to remount the strut.