BHDave

for 300 i'd be leaning towards 3.5inch. Back pressure? How the hell is that myth still being perpetuated? It's an NA myth too, incidentally, not turbo.

Sorry but they aren't. When i sat them side by side the s14 was longer than the r32. And it had 4 holes vs 3 in the r32 arm. S14 cant be the same as r32 and r33 either as the r33 LCA is longer than r32 I can also confirm that the s14 arm is longer than the s13 arm. It's a common mod in s13 drift hacks used to gain track and camber.

I'm 99% certain that the only difference is that the s13 LCA has an extra hole in it for mounting the swaybar.

whats the point of the little black box if you're going to yank the globe, duncan? sheesh, what's next? Stripping out all the redundant lines and solenoids?!?

I'm pretty certain beer baron mentions a difference in the DBA rotor cracking thread. Found it. Page 5 if it doesn't link straight there http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cr....html&st=80

Talk to greg at autosport engineering in Kirrawee. He tracks an rb26 powered s15 so will at least be able to point you in the right direction.

They really aren't a sensible street tyre (even though i actually have RS fronts and rt215 rears). If your car is a daily driver you should consider something a bit better wearing or have a big tyre budget. They have decent tread depth (around 8mm from memory vs a proper semi at around 5mm), but they wear about 3 times faster than a regular performance road tyre. The grip is better than a regular performance tyre, but not 3 times better, and they cost as much as proper semis (the rs anyway). That said, if you plan to do skid pan or hill climb or motorkhana type stuff and don't want to dick about changing tyres then i think they are a good choice as they don't need warming as much as proper semis. I still put semis on for the track, unless it's wet where i leave the street tyres on.

on the 26 inlet cam? yes.

yes, but the bit that rubs is right near the lip. The wiring harness isn't under that bit, it's up along the inside edge of the inner guard.

I expect the thread is f**ked now so no use in trying to save the ball joint. Try one of the tuning fork looking things from supercheap. I have one sitting in my tool box but have never needed to use it.

It did for one evo driver. Lost it coming onto the front straight at maybe 60km/h and went into the tyres at the pit entry side on. Broken arm and broken car. There were a few evo guys who seemed to be caught out by sudden massive oversteer on that corner through out the day.

Whats wrong with you and wet weather? My hair goes all wavy. It sucks. I had 3 decent offs in the first 3 sessions. After the second and third ones i had to spend half an hour cleaning mud out of my wheels so that they weren't horribly out of balance. Dished 3 spoke rims make good shovels btw. You could have practiced skidz y0.

remove the inner guard and roll the lip of the guard up. I'm pretty surprised that it's happening with the car only 15mm lower to be honest. The wheel will still travel in the same path and the springs are probably stiffer so there shouldn't be as much movement for a given load. i really don't get why there is a problem now when there wasn't one before (assuming the wheels haven't changed). porsche slicks are a no no. The rolling diameter is significantly higher than the stock rolling diameter of the skyline so more scrubbing. Added to this is that you simply don't have the adjustment to set the suspension up to suit the tyre. I'd be looking at semis but even then you really need some sort of camber adjustment in the front and rear to make the most of them or you will just destroy the outside edges of the tyre in a day or 2.

looks stock to me. High flows will generally have a lot more taken out of the snout. And if the rear wheel/housing are untouched then i can guarantee the front wheel is stock.

I dunno, dry track is a lot of fun if you're out there with the intention of improving times as opposed to circulating. To be honest, i think i do more skids in the dry than i did yesterday as generally you can drive through it in the dry, where as you have to have a lot better control in the wet, particularly when you are chasing the limit of grip on the dryer line. That said, it was a great learning experience. trying to find the limit of grip was definitely a good thing, finding it in the braking zone of the fish hook, not so good

zomg! Thats a serious step up. The best part is that you can go to wakefield on an open day and be in the race car group with no traffic

That was a great day. So much fun trying to drive fast in slippery conditions.

skidz! Perfect weather for silvia drivers I really wanted to have a crack at setting a decent lap time on the new surface but i guess it'll have to wait now.

When you remove the harmonic balancer (which you have to do to get the belt on) there is a notch on the cover and a mark on the crank gear that line up when the engine is at TDC.

regardless, without caliper adapters you will not fit those disks under an r34 Gtt caliper. I would suggest getting some r32gtst calipers and caliper adapters and keeping the rotors and pads. It's the cheapest way out now. I didn't have too much trouble finding gtt rotors. but i spent 3 times as much as you and got 2 piece project mu gear

If i got offended that easily i'd have to carry a box of kleenex around Didn't you know that only weirdos buy skylines and normal people buy silvias?

You should know that nothing makes me more normal

My nuggets broken (again) but i have a loan car lined up I get to be a weirdo in a silvia for this one.

Thats unfortunate

Hooray for school holidays!