BHDave

you disconnect the bottom fitting on the cooler and drain it separately not exactly rocket science. I have been advised by certain knowledgeable people that oil coolers should be mounted on their side with the inlet at the bottom and the outlet on the top to avoid an air pocket within the core. Makes sense if you think about it simply, but in practice will the core fill if mounted like shaun's? Mines mounted the same way btw, except compared to shauns extruded brackets mine may as well be held in with fencing wire and duct tape

top one is aftermarket. Those little filter things aren't factory AFAIK unless nissan changed their thinking between r33 and 34. Probably for a boost gauge or something. Cant see where it connects to which will confirm what it's for. 2 and 3 should go to the charcoal canister. there should be a (roughly) 3mm vac/boost hose running from the throttle body to the little reg on top of the canister and a 5mm line running from the plenum to the canister. 4 and 5 are just the same hoses. Have you traced back to see where they connect to at the other end?

Bleed the brakes, get some motul rbf600 fluid. check your pads have a reasonable amount of meat left. If they are a pure street pad you will chew through them pretty quickly. I go through a set of rears every 2 track days as i haven't gotten around to buying good ones yet. The fronts are still fine after 5 days as they are a better pad (project mu HC+). I also run an extra .5L oil in my rb25. No oil surge issues to date. Otherwise, just go out and have fun. see what the car is doing, then build from there if you are serious about chasing times.

You've speced a hydraulic cam with solid lifters. If you are going solid top end then get some bigger lift cams to go with it

near enough. just make sure it has the same size inner bushes as your current ones. There are 2 possible sizes out there.

All sold Thanks

looks like the secondary solenoid on the idle air control valve i mentioned above. dont worry about it. I leave mine disconnected these days as i have removed the AC and the car starts fine.

you are there's no difference. mine ran with an rb20 one up until recently when i decided it was getting old and swapped it for a generic one Which fan are you talking about? the secondary one on the front or the internal one? If its the internal one you have issues as that should work regardless of whether the engine loom is installed or not. re the ac wiring. if the idle isn't stepping up then the ecu doesn't know the ac is being switched on. It will step up regardless of whether the second solenoid on the IACV is connected or not. If the compressor isn't switching on it's because the ecu isn't telling it to switch on (1) because it doesn't know it's supposed to, and maybe (2) because it hasn't been connected into the body loom up near the air box. The secondary fan is also tied up to this so will work once it gets the signal. re the start up issues. check your earths, check the auxiliary air valve has power (though that won't make a heap of difference to start up, just cold return to idle stalling could be a problem) check that the water temp sensor is connected and working properly (im guessing thats the s14 one that you plugged in. bin it and get the right one)

I have a r32 so it's probably different. But i just got 2 new ones from nissan. Tried a pair of second hand ones first but they lasted about 1000kms before failing the same way. There was mention of someone recoing theirs a bit firther down in the suspension section. may be worth looking at as the genuine ones cost 125 or so each.

well if the crunching is gone now then almost certainly hicas ball joints. Mine did the same thing when the tie rods ball joints got sloppy. It's pretty obvious if you remove the inner rubber boot and move the wheel. You will be able to either hear the play due to the grease if it's not too bad, or see it if it's really bad.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch...amp;hl=manifold dangerman4s thread comparing china manifold to extreme turbo manifold

Those bearings don't look like anything in the back end that i know of. They are way too small to be wheel bearings. Wheels bearings will be conical with a tubular roller as opposed to ball bearings. remove the wheel and brake rotor and repeat the process so that the brake shoes aren't getting in the way. The crunching almost certainly isn't hicas related.

Regarding the oil temp, where in the circuit is your temp sensor mounted? out going or return? and if it's on the return side will it see any oil before the thermostat opens? I'd expect it doesn't open before about 80 degrees.

when ever you raise or lower it you will effect your alignment. The damping adjustment will be on top of the strut. So if they are a conventional set up it will be at the upper mount of the unit. If they have inverted struts it will be at the bottom end. you don't need to jack the car up to adjust the damping.

Removal of the lower control arms is a pretty simple job, there is just a bit of fiddly shit to look out for. first off, leave the strut in. It provides a bit of downward pressure for removal and installation of the ball joint(s) Undo the inner nuts but leave the bolts in, drop the sway bar on the rear, the caster rod on the front. Remove the split pins on the top of the ball joints Undo the castle nut on the ball joint. Now is the fun part. On the front it is pretty easy to bash the ball joint out. If you don't care about saving it (i wouldn't if it's taken a hit) just bash it out. Put a jack under the hub to support it while you bash. This is the reason i leave the strut in. It holds the whole assembly steady. If the thing is flapping around in the breeze it could take you hours to get it out. Rear is a bit harder to do but still acheivable as the drive shaft is in the way. just get a 300mm long bit of steel rod to use as a dolly. seriously, once you get under there and have a look there's not much to it. If you get stuck, post up specifc questions.

I don't think they are a waste of time, though in all honesty if you had half a clue you could do one yourself and save 16 bucks. Is the creak from the suspension or is it the body creaking as you load up one side?

Any tyre place will be able to get new seals in if they are a common type. They won't necessarily be identical but will do the job. Worst case you may need to change the valves which would still be a cheap exercise.

agreed Your car all sorted now lizzeh?

Just a couple of quick ones: i also agree that you don't want a 1.5 way in a daily driver, particularly if you have any sort of subframe bush upgrades, pinapples or alloy collars. I'm sure people do it and are happy to do it but i think thats what pushed mine over the edge as far as being a nice car to drive around in. Re the nismo wearing less and having adjustable preload. If it slips more (less preload) it wears the plates more. It's not infinitely adjustable either, there are 3 levels of preload so if it wears and you bump up the preload to the next step it's actually a bit of a jump, rather than a tweak. To tweak it you'd need to get it apart. As an alternative, maybe consider a GTR rear end, they are a mechanical type lsd, 1 way and a bit looser than your average aftermarket diff so much nicer in the day to day grind, or even a torsen out of an s15. both options require a bit of work though and a few more bits swapped

It depends on usage. Drift and drag has some pretty high shock loading and will kill the box and drive shafts (and the stock viscous center as well if it's not already dead). If you are doing circuit days then it's just the box and diff center that need swapping. The rest holds up fine.

I've seen a 32 front on a 180, so dimensionally i think you should be ok. The only concern i can think of is bonnet to cam cover clearance at the front of the engine as the s15 looks to have a more pointed front end. But! Personally, i think the s15 front only looks good on 180's and s15's. The r32 is very similar in styling to an s13 silvia and the boxy angular back does not match the more rounded front IMHO. 34 front works on a 32 (and s13) as they both have that angular look to them

my mate saw next to no gain when he added hks cams with a 2835proS. went from a previous peak of about 269 to about 271rwkw, same dyno, same tuner.

no one i guess. looks like mr nissan is going to get the chance to rape me

you are paying to have the workshop remove the wheels and send them off to the tyre place, then paying for the balance, then paying the workshop to pick up and reinstall. remove and reinstall of wheels would be about 30 minutes, plus say 10minutes each way for the tyres to be dropped off and picked up. So an hour of workshop labour time plus a balance. It's reasonable.

The missing weights won't cause problems at that sort of speed, and with a stock rim i cant see the issue being related to the wheel hitting anything (though it should be pretty obvious if you look inside the wheel well and see any shiny bits) But, from your description it sounds like it happens once with each wheel rotation so the weights are a possibility of hitting something as the wheel turns..... Swap the front semi to the rear and see what it does. check the strut for any marks where the weights or something could have hit the lower spring seat (i've had that problem before) also check the rotors and pads just in case something has gotten stuck in there and is destroying your brakes