BHDave

It's started raining out here now anyway. +1 for new car clunking doesn't sound good. Otherwise i'd blame a bearing, or maybe the diff fairies came and installed a 1.5 way while you were asleep

As much as a front strut brace is good for increasing the rigidity of the front end, you can't discount what Amec is saying here. Installing/removing the brace will alter the way the car handles, it will be either beneficial or not depending on the situation. Don't discount it because you perceive it as being counter to what you think you know. Amec did win the 07 QR Sprint series so i would assume he has a fair idea what he's on about when it comes to car setup.

the inlet manifold sits about 10mm higher on a 25. It's not exactly a common problem to have clearance issues, but it isn't uncommon either.

same here

No, I will only sell as a set. Cheers Dave

The fuel tank gets in the way in a 32

i found bugger all difference between rubber and braided lines on the street. everything else was done prior to lines though (caliper/rotor/fluid/stopper/800 degree pads). I swapped them before seeing track work so can't comment there. All i can suggest is flushing the lines with the higher temp rated motul or penrite fluid and see how it goes first as thats a pretty cheap check. I'd be looking at the pads before the lines though as what you are describing sounds like you're cooking the pads IMHO. I found the same thing when i ran RB74's and a cheap shit interim pad while waiting for my good ones to arrive.

Seat sold

fronts definitely, rears probably (i'm not 100% on what will fit the rear on r33's) I replaced the 15mm slips on with 20mm bolt ons all round on my 32gtst with stock front guards and slightly flared rear guards

you're breaking my balls here guys! price drop on the wheels, now $650ono

it's a bit hit and miss as the spring rates will effect it. I start both on the softest setting and go from there. If it understeers (it probably will) then tighten the rear. If it oversteers then tighten the front. Thats all there is to it. It's all fine tuning to suit your preferences.

Increase the rear bar stiffness if it is set to soft. If it's still understeering then zero the rear toe as with your current problem the rear toe in won't be helping. It will be far from optimum but it will improve the handling and cost you what ever a rear alignment costs. Try increase the rear damping. Then spend money on the other things. Your grip seems biased towards the rear, so you need to try and get it back towards the front. As you can't go any softer on the front then try and stiffen up the rear. re the sway bars, i'd say the cusco unit may be hollow which is why it has a large diameter.

Thats it that i know of. There is usually another silver r33 that shows up. Nice to see everyone has a proper car description btw

you've got to do something about that boost response Nice peak, now you just need to get the full 20psi in earlier and fill in the mid range hole. If the early ramp up onto boost is anything to go by you should be able to gain heaps of midrange.

the second hand one you got will have been for a non abs model, your's has abs i assume

I'm interested to see how your's goes Simon. I was very impressed with a mates 2835proS and am interested to see if you end up with similar numbers and boost response

I can't comment on the NR's as i haven't used them, I have the HC+ and i think they are fantastic. I have the SCR Pro rotors and again, i can't fault them. I think they are fantastic. I have r34gtt front brakes on my 32gtst. Neither the pad or the rotor are wearing significantly despite the amount of track work they are seeing and they are performing very well. We'll see how they go on a faster track like ec in the new year.

I agree with evil, As good as my 800 degree project Mu's are on the track, they just don't cut it when dead cold, to be honest, the older they get, the worse the cold performace seems to be. I can't really complain though as they just don't seem to be wearing out (and neither are the pmu rotors) and they have done 5 days at wakefield now and never faded once. The same can't be said of the cheap shit rears. If you decide to go with a middle of the range pad (and i think your choice of a 550 degree pad is a good compromise), you will need to accept that it won't perform optimally in both situations, so the only way around it is to swap pads continually.....

I paid $315 for the brake lines only. Whats a clutch line worth these days? If you aren't too fussed about ADR's then i reckon the nismo ones for $250 delivered on nengun are the way to go if you aren't in a hurry to get them.

price drop on the seat.

anyone?

Same pad, different caliper. As far as pads go, you won't benefit from a high temp rated pad. I couldn't even hazard a guess as to what specific pad will be best for your application, but a high temp pad will be worse than a cheap street biased pad as there is a bit of a trade off in cold performance no matter what the marketing says.

i got mine through maltech and they manufactured and posted them in under a week. they had a special around this time last year advertised on NS. www.maltech.com.au

they are

monkey bar is good to mount fire extinguisher on, and it looks pretty and is perfectly spaced so that i can put my 1/2" socket set between it and the passenger side seat mounts and it doesn't slide around