BHDave

hang on a minute. Aren't we talking racing machines here? When did a race car need a suede cluster? my povo version incomplete (for an s13 btw) And Nickr33, you aren't the only one.....

Hi all I have a full set of r32 gtr brakes for sale including DBA rotors Fronts: Calipers inc all shims, pins and springs, and DBA 4000 slotted rotors $450 Rears: Calipers inc all shims, pins and springs, and DBA longlife slotted rotors $300 Can include rear RB74 pads for an extra $75. Pads were bedded in and did 5 laps of wakefield. Also have a full set of maltech braided lines to suit r32 for $200 or take the lot for $850. I can throw in the rear hand brake assy (minus hubs) for people who are thinking of converting an s car for nothing if you take the lot or $50 if you are only after rears. All prices negotiable to some extent. Lowballers will be ignored or abused depending on my state of mind at the time.... pics on request but they look like brakes, lines and pads...... Cheers Dave

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja...ed-t224548.html it may be worth seeing what else is available as everyone tends to agree that the 888's are a bit softer than the other brands. I don't know what other semis they can provide but for heavier cars the bridgestones and dunlops seem to be the popular choice

its because he went from auto to manual. box length isn't the same and neither are the mounts

I have heard the same, which is why i got r888's for my track only NA silvia as it is just under 1 tonne according to the previous owner. They were also a good price ($1300 for 4 235/45-17's fitted) I have seen very good results with the V70A's as well but don't they have excess tread depth (~8mm) when new so require shaving for dry track use? Or am i mixing it up with another kumho?

from earlier in the thread: by that i mean f**king disgraceful Matt, The ball joints are after market roll center adjuster type ones. I don't think they suit a gts4 hub anyway. I have no idea if the rack is compatible but if you can confirm it is then i still have it here. Update: s1 rb25det, no coils, no turbo no injectors. sump has a dent in it where it hit the sway bar but can provide a spare, runs well, good compression $1350 GTR front drivers side guard with lip rolled and a small dent above the wheel arch, silver, $200 GTR front drivers side indicator $100 GTSt front guards with compliance indicators, pair $300 rb25 ignitor $125 rb25 clutch slave $50 And the after market bits Just jap B pillar brace $100 Maltech braided brake lines ADR compliant $250 early model hks rb25det cams 256 8.8/264 9.0 inc adjustable exhaust wheel $650. plus a heap of random crap thats still got to be pulled out of the shell

Best part about cc days is they still have passenger sessions so i could have dragged your arse into the 10's

you could have done skids in the afternoon anyway! And tmb's nugget took 1st and 4th fastest of the day (and that 4th was one of only 2 clear laps as i was wallowing in group 3)

Loom now sold. Doors and boot sold cas sold pending payment

don't claim it until you've done it

I don't think thats a decent time at all. sub 10's is mediocre these days. You need 8's or better to be considered quick The NA silvia i just bought has a best of 1:09.3 at wakefield (natsoft) on the old surface. It has 120 rwkw.... You're right to expect 6's roy

just make sure the uni's were aligned when you reassembled it. If not thats most of your problem. I'm assuming it was okish before the bearing swap (except for the dud bearing obviously) For a balance Hardy Spicer. They are in Moorebank.

straight percentage loss again..... if a 2kw heater can heat up my bedroom by 10 degrees in 10 minutes, then in theory an 800rwkw car losing 20% through the drive line would be dumping near enough to 160kw in heat at the point of peak power (you don't lose energy, it must go somewhere, in this case heat and noise). The cabin would be pretty unbearable to be in after a couple of pulls on the dyno don't you think? The gearbox and diff would be glowing.... After an hour the whole workshop would be on fire

it's an early hks turbo (either 2530 or 2535) that used to be sold with a cast dump to suit an rb front pipe. Very early 2530's came out this way, as did the old t3g's. I have seen the dumps first hand. The outlet looks very similar to an IW t2 turbo so all is not necessarily lost. Just a bit more custom work....

ffs, he doesn't like the pads. let it go. He can at least compare them to other pads in a similar situation and comment on their performance. Right at the start of this thread there are good comments on the sbs carbon ceramic. I hate the f**king things. I thought they were the exact opposite of what was described. Too high an initial bite, horrible feel once hot (very wooden), poor modulation (basically because you can't feel whats going on). It's feed back and it's what this thread is about. Don't shoot the guy down just because he disagrees with you.

don't get a .63 internal gate housing. If you get ex gate .63 with a 44mm gate it will be an animal on an rb25. the .63 will just scrape in 270. if you want to keep the stock manifold stick with a .82

have a look in the dyno results thread near the end for skylinecouple's results. He's also posted in one of the other 3071 threads floating around

I actually did put an old stage 2 GCG highflow on a mangled trust manifold. I left it IW though. I got the manifold cheap, i was swapping in the rb25 anyway so i thought it was worth a crack. I had 1 bar by about 3k so i wouldn't say it was laggy. It was a beautiful thing to drive compared to the rb20 with the same turbo. I was still playing around with the emanage at that stage and made an easy 200 at 1bar with just the afm correction for a z32 and no other changes. The manifold eventually cracked. I installed a hks low mount manifold and t300s, sold off the old bits, life went on.... So ultimately a waste of money but at the time i enjoyed playing and had plenty of spare cash so it didn't bother me.

It makes me look silly too. I threw a lot of money at the last car. This one will hopefully owe me less than 12k by the time the turbo engine goes in and the suspension is sorted to suit the extra weight up front. But i have a bad habit of spending all my money on cars....

bah! I'd rather cover for my lack of ability by jamming a better diff in it at zero cost Sound like you need to invest in a nismo clutch pack bob

The r32 was scary. This thing will be in a different league once it gets a turbo. The previous owner has already got it into the 9's as it stands and i used to dive past it on the straights like it was standing still....

Eventually it will get a turbo. I already have the 3071 off the old car and i have a low km s15 engine that i picked up as a partial trade on some bits. So there's a new rear housing, manifold, cams, springs, rocker arm stoppers, gate, and head gasket to get into it before install. The car already has an s15 pfc installed so it's an easy swap. short term is get some flares, get some new semis on my 17x9 +25 sterns, tidy it up a bit and drive it. Not so short term is full re wire, more weight reduction, and some paint. Engine is a long term one. So about 6 months or so depending on money

tmb is waiting to see how the new light weight bonnet turns out. If it's good i'm sure he will give you the contact details. Both boot and bonnet require pins so no good for street cars....

wings are for ricers Plus the 2.5kg boot lid i have sitting in my lounge room wont support one....

Do you see now why we said your car was too pretty to be a nugget? yeah, it was dumheds. the torsen is a really nice street diff, they are great when you have weight over both wheels and provide good drive (so no single spinning the inside like a shagged viscous) but once you unweight or lift the inside wheel it goes open as you apply throttle. with my penchant for bouncing off kerbs i can see it not working for me too well. Also dumhed had issues with it spinning up on med to fast sweepers so he installed the big rice wing to keep a bit of load over the arse end which helped. That didn't come with the car so it will have that problem if i don't change the diff.