BHDave

I know my car is safer when it doesn't run. Which is most of the time these days.....

Yeah, it doesn't work so well when you have fines that are 6 months over due because you don't know about them, you drive a modified import, and a friendly Highway patrol officer decides to run a random check while following you down the freeway.......

Yes, that is a quick stupid question

I also run a trust with remote mount which i picked up second hand a couple of years back. No thermostat on mine though. I have seen trust ones with thermostat if you want to go that way. If you don't want a remote mount and want a thermostat i'd suggest hks. They have a kit that includes the thermostat in the sandwich plate and it's a very tidy solution. Just get a sandwich plate and buy the rest locally to save on mark up, or a second hand kit. Very cheap on yahoo.

What model cars are we talking here? r33 RB25DET manual yoke will not fit r32 RB20DET manual. R32/R33 RB25DE will be a match.

Currently woring my way through bleach. I think it's pretty bloody good. Though at 100 odd episodes long i think it will be hard to keep up the enthusiasm. I'm at about 50 atm. I've watched the first 4 midnight Wangan and i'm not too impressed. Makes me want to get a 240z though as the car's are detailed well. Full metal alchemist is worth a watch, though again it's a big series at about 50 eps + a movie. Atm i think bleach tops it but we'll see once i finish..... Afro samurai is a definately worth watching. Zombie loan i haven't gotten into yet, same with devil may cry. Whats the vampire one called again. Hellsing? It just sort of stops at episode 13 or there abouts. Not the greatest. One of my mates has just got his hands on Naruto so i'll probably get that soon as well. I will have to have a look for claymore and historys greatest disciple and see what they are like.

Removal is a bit of a saga without a press. I drilled through the rubberwith an 1/8inch drill or there abouts and pressed the crush tube out with a vice, then hacksawed a couple of slots in the outer about 2mm apart and used a pin punch to roll that out. It took about 10-15 minutes per bush once i got the hang of it. The trick is to go slow with the hacksaw so you don't cut right through into the arm itself, then using the punch you tear the strip out and leave the arm undamaged. I found that the lower control arm inner bush numbers in the catalogue to be wrong. There are 2 possible sizes. You need to measure yours before ordering and make sure it gets passed on to noltec. I got the same wrong bushes sent out twice before finally getting the right ones (they were numbered as z32 ones on the packaging). Installation is a piece of cake. no press required.

lol, Iemma trying to shift focus off his shocking record as premier. Here's a novel suggestion for you Morris, stop wasting time announcing stupid proposals that focus on less than .01% of motorists and do something about public health, education and transport.

lol, you did better than me! I only had an rb20det box hold up behind my rb25 with 280odd rwkw. That thing hung together for over a year before i got around to putting the 25 box in. It's back behind another rb25 now too.

what ever shit i can lay me hands on at the time. Valvoline semi synth atm

by flange you mean dump pipe flange? Don't know whether anyone has them locally so it's probably a smart move to get one sent over, same with gasket (id get 2 or 3 of them just incase).

From what i have seen on 2 sr's with proper 3071's, the response really isn't far off gtrs/2871 thresholds. Same goes for the only rb25 with 2835pros i've been in. That thing was making 1 bar a little over 3 grand in 3rd. Admittedly it's the smaller turbine and arguably better hks housing, but it is a .68 as opposed to .63 garrett so there's a bit of a trade off there. It took next to no throttle input to hear the thing spinning up It's unfortunate that dyno print outs of boost often don't match what we see on the road. And transient response is something you can really only experience by driving. I still believe the 3071 is the street turbo to have and (as i've said before) if my old t3/4 nugget ever dies horribly i will be getting one.

so thats why my horn isn't working? I installed the wheel before ripping out all the redundant hicas crap (i think) and my horn worked. Surely that isn't the reason for no horn now that it's all gone??? I still have the hicas box in the back, just nothing else. Admittedly i haven't actually tried to find the fault, just pulled the button off to make sure it's connected still.

the IF tie rods are cheap enough. The ends cost a fair bit more though and help the postage costs due to the weight

i just felt the need to post something about a bank owning an arse

If you get car finance you have to get fully comp as the car belongs to the finance company until paid off technically. If you get a personal loan from the bank you don't have to get any insurance because the bank owns your arse, not the car....

is it black or blue? black = rich blue = oil

mods won't effect it. If the thermostat was stuck open you'd see the car take longer to heat up but in stop/start driving the temperature would still get up to normal range, then drop back down on freeway driving. There isn't anything wrong with the car in that regard. Has it just suddenly dropped or has it slowly been creeping down over time? Has the engine bay been steam cleaned or anything recently? Before doing anything else, pull the connector off the temp sensor in the engine bay (it's the 1 wire sensor on the front of the engine next to where the top radiator hose joints the inlet manifold) and make sure it isn't corroded. clean it up if it is, pull the plug off and on a few times to clean the contact. If that doesn't fix it, then just keep an eye on the gauge and see if it is dropping slowly. if it is, then it is most like the sensor, but that is pretty unusual.

There's nothing wrong with your gauge, your temp sensor or your thermostat (what the hell were you thinking jamie?) It in the acceptable range, It wont even move off the stop until you are at close to 60 degrees It's stable And the car can obviously drive for 2 hours flawlessly enough that you start looking for problems where they don't exist. What possible reason can you have for thinking it's broken?

yeah, they look like 32gtr and if you have got your measure right(ish) then aftermarket rotors and pads will fit fine

Thats worst case. You'd need to confirm the bolt size on the crown wheel once you have the diff open.

No idea on fittings or actuator to be honest. I'd have thought there would be a bracket of some kind to mount a fairly standard aftermarket actuator. Personally i'd get the turbo on the manifold and do a measure for lines, then take the turbo, old lines/banjos and your measurements up to motorsport connections at seven hills and get the right adapters and lines. They will knock up the lines on the spot and you will know that they'll fit properly

I'm doing that this time as well, but thats worth 120 on its own....

what!!! You could spend 1k on shipping and still have a 3076 with a garrett IW housing for less than that from ATP! atp 3076

nah, s14 ~3.7 from memory, s13 ~ 3.9, r33gtst ~ 4.1 and r32gtst ~ 4.3. very roughly. A bit of research can confirm the exact ratios available. there are a few ratios in between and i think the r32gts4 is close to 4.4