BHDave

r32 gtst's benefit a fair bit from a bit of extra front camber. The extra caster doesn't hurt either.

the backing plate is different. The front mounts are different. you need to machine up a bush and press it in. The crown wheel bolt pattern is the same. This one is actually a bit of a myth as there are actually different bolt diameters in the r200 centers but i'm pretty certain that the r32 and 33 ones are the same size as r32 actually has the larger size bolts. Doesn't matter really as there are converter bolts available from nismo that have a larger shank to suit the larger hole in the center and a smaller thread to suit a smaller crown wheel bolt size as used in s13 ratios (3.9's). pretty certain i have some floating around somewhere....

near 100? you're getting them cheap then. The least i've gotten one for is 130 from nissan i paid 150 for my last one. Personal preference only here, but the last thing i want is to get everything installed, turn the key and hear tick tick tick tick from a gasket leak because the single layer after market gaskets available don't have the thickness to account for the slightly warped 200k old manifold (or 50k old badly warped hks one in my case). I'm pretty certain aftermarket vl ones can be used if you want to go that way

i'm definitely right I bought a 110 knowing it was to suit an early model and i have a late model. I assumed it only affected the hicas which is long gone. It also effects the indicators But yes, the 110 is definitely early model.

on-110 is the early model one. its either 115 or 132 for the late, can't remember which.

Wind in more caster, up to about 8 degrees before you'll start having scrubbing issues. Then just get as much camber as the bushes can give you. I think the whiteline kit only has an adjustable outer so you won't get much more than you have already. Run either 0 toe or a bit of toe out to help turn in. Nothing more that you can do with what you have atm without doing something silly like add toe out on the rear.

Those are street alignment settings. other than the ride heights they will be a bit ordinary on the track. It doesn't matter anyway as this guy doesn't have the adjustability in his current suspension to do that. simmy, any setup you do at the moment will be a bit of a compromise. Do you mean the front camber is non adjustable? Anyway, start with the front and rear heights. around 350mm center to guard front and rear, someone else will be able to confirm the exact heights. I just don't remember them as they dont really apply to my car anymore due to roll center adjusters and various other crap i've installed. with that sort of front camber you will need to be running semi slicks to take advantage of it. If you won't be running semis then it's worth trying to reduce it to about 2.5 degrees to start You also have minimal factory rear camber adjustment, you want to try and get around 1.5 degrees camber on the rear for semis, about 1 for street tyres any less and you will be rolling the tyre over and not getting drive out of corners/tending to oversteer. You can play with toe in on the rear to try and combat this a bit. Start with about 2mm total toe in on the rear and go from there. The over steer on corner exit will be compounded by you only having the gtr rear bar so the car will tend to be a bit oversteery. I'd start with 0 toe on the front to start with and see what the car does on turn in. If it is understeering start to add toe out, if it is oversteering ideally you need to do something with the swaybars and rear camber. Ideally you want caster around the 5-6 region for track (apparently). I still run a lot more than that as i just prefer how it feels atm as i have run closer to 8 degrees for years now.

if they are making enough noise that you can hear it while driving then you should be able to just jack up the car, remove a wheel at a time and try and move the strut side to side. It won't move very much at all but any play in the bearing will be easily heard.

man up and hit them harder I had about 4 of the bastards try and stick, so i went and got a bigger hammer

yeah, definately not the proper garrett housing

physically measure the turbine quick edit. I was actually in there today buying assorted crap to get my car back on the road and had a look at the turbo catalogue sitting on the front desk, only cropped 3071's shown....

I did R32 and get as much weight out of it as you can. It is lighter to begin with than the 33, it is cheaper to buy, it has better diff ratios, it stops better. It's older so will need some attention in the suspension department, namely ball joints, tie rods and ends, subframe bushes and castor rods. But as far as breakages due to age, i have had no major issues. In 4 years of owning mine i've had a leaky water pump, an alternator die, an ignitor lose a channel and a couple of speedo cables die. The engine did get a bit tired as it approached the 200k mark so i put the 25 in. If you buy one with a healthy engine, box and diff it will be fine. Or an s13.

Are you using a shorter bearing carrier to suit the twin plate? You can always go ghetto and shorten the pin on the slave. You have to do something because you will kill thrust bearings (and potentially other things too) if you leave it.

post the pictures, without measurements it is the only way anyone can tell if it's actually GTR, maybe 33gtst

the fronts don't have an outer metal bit. They are 2 piece bushes (one each side, 4 per arm) and you just bang them out with a chisel and a mallet using the little collars, then slip the replacements in. They are one of the easiest bushes to replace on the entire car. Don't require presses or anything exotic, just a vice, hammer and chisel

+1. nismo 555cc injectors too. It is the best solution. AFAIK dr drift is the only one locally who can do real time tuning of the stock r33 ecu and it is no where near as cheap as an r32/s13. Unless you live within driving distance of his home base then forget about it and get a stand alone ecu that you can get tuned by someone reasonably close to you.

Agreed, you need drag radials. Track semis are a different beast. re55's are rubbish when cold too. nankangs have more grip. It's a different story after a couple of laps

Are you talking about tie rod ends or tie rods? Because there's only one person i know of thats done ends and thats t04gtr in his street/track gtr. The tie rods certainly wear out as they get old, replace them with new ones and they are good for another 150-200,000kms. the same can't be said of aftermarket toe arms

If you are going to be renting initially, then i'd suggest the inner west. Unless rents have gone up significantly in the last couple of years it was the about the best cross between affordability/proximity to the city i found when i was younger. I found public transport to be really good in that area too, as you are at a bit of a fork in the road as far as trains go with 3 different lines running through the area so you are generally fairly close. Buses run everywhere. My last place had a bus stop out the front which went to newtown and glebe, and a train station 400m up the road if i wanted to go to the city. Cab ride was about 25 bucks to get me home at 2am You are also generally travelling against the traffic in the morning which makes a huge difference. But if you have friends over here then it's worth being at least reasonably close to them initially. Nothing worse than living close to the city but travelling out to the west every second weekend to go to the pub with your mates, but you can't drink because you have to drive home....

To get the s15 subframe in an s13 properly you need custom offset bushes (which are available ex japan). But as stated above, it can be bolted up without them but you are depending on slack in the rubber bushes to do it and thats not good for alignment. mello, it's pretty much a yes to all your questions, though you'd need to confirm that your current diff is an r200 and not an r180. re the hicas vs non hicas subframe. if you lower the car with s13 subframe you will have to buy toe arms anyway which will flog out eventually. If you get a 32 one you will have to fork out for a lock bar and at some stage tierods. by the time you look at the cost of getting another s13 subframe, and an r32 diff and shafts and brakes separately and the toe arms, vs just buying an r32 subframe, a lock bar and a couple of tie rods it will probably work out around the same sort of money (atleast it would here as we have a lot of r32 stuff available). It's the same old story, cheaper to buy an entire subframe than it is to buy all the bits separately.

Best failure ever! I'm impressed. I think the backing plate failed as the compressor has just disintergrated at 15k rpm and eaten the housing rather than throwing off the blades but leaving the center of the wheel intact on the shaft as usually happens when something is ingested. Thats a fair mass of material with a lot of energy to disipate. In all honesty, shit happens. For a pretty cheap line of turbos there are surprisingly few failures that i've heard about. And despite my thoughts on the Otomoto/HPI link the guys associated with the mag and company all seem to run these turbos on their own cars which atleast shows some confidence in the product.

Add more :PBJ: That ought to confuse people. I have ripped the manifold off to get machined in the hope that i can finish a track day without 1) ripping a stud out of the head, 2) snapping a stud, 3) having a massive exhaust leak, 4) losing random nuts and bolts around the track. I'll bet something else breaks this time.....

It is most likely due to your old pump being fairly tired and not being able to keep the pressure up to the rail at WOT. My afr's dropped by 2 at the top end when i installed an aftermarket pump. idle and cruise mixtures were unaffected. The thing is, even if your fuel pump can flow enough fuel that the reg becomes a restriction and so the pressure increases, at idle and cruise the ecu is still chasing a target mixture based on the o2 sensor input. My stock reg and lines have no trouble maintaining stock base pressure with an 044.

Possibly try and recalibrate with the o2 sensor out of the exhaust. On cruise your stock o2 sensor and ecu should have the mixtures fairly close to 14.5, even with a few mods. Have you got bigger injectors which may be a bit laggier than the stockers?

I use an rb20 starter still. I had the 2 sitting side by side when doing my rb25 swap and decided to stick with the one i knew worked. Flywheel ring gear is the same size so there's no problems there. It works with both 20 and 25 gear box. Why wouldn't it?