BHDave

starter location doesn't mean the flywheels are the same. Turbo and NA SR20 is a prime example of that. Same size ring gear, different size pressure plate and clutch. I believe there is no dowel on the rb30 crank to locate the flywheel, and there is on the 20, 25 & 26 crank, so you may have to remove that. Bolt pattern is the same to fit it up and i'm pretty certain that the bolt pattern for the pressure plate is the same.

I found that a 3/8's ratchet with a 150mm extension works from inside the engine bay if you have room to get in there and spin the ratchet. Then i went and fitted a master cylinder stopper, remote oil filter and header tank down that side of the engine so it was no longer an option. So last time i used a long extension and a wobble attachment on the end so you can get the ratchet infront of the engine to give your self more room to swing and better leverage. Similar technique to getting the top 2 bolts on the bell housing.

I see where you are coming from re the bigger turbine in a smaller housing, you are trying to trade off any extra lag as a result of the larger rotating mass by having a smaller turbine housing to force it to spin up quicker. It's the way i'd do it, despite knowing full well that high exhaust manifold pressure is the enemy. Just consider you have the extra torque a bigger turbine can provide spinning up the same compressor so i don't think you will be stepping backward significantly in response even with the same sized turbine housing. The potential is there to choke at the top end with the small housing. All i can suggest, if you decide to go ahead, is be prepared to step up on the turbine a/r.

If you have the space, can pick it up and no one has bought it by next friday night it's yours

yeah, you can see it isn't quite long enough in the second photo. Though it lines up with the guard on the top edge really well. I was originally going to go the full gtr front end but after fitting the panels up i actually like having the gtst bar on there.

You have half a shell in fiberglass there funky. Super light weight race 32/goggo mobile. Current work in progress: GTR front guards and bonnet installed, i'm keeping the goofy stock front bar for ground clearance. The wheels on the car in this pic are 17x8+30 with a 25mm spacer behind them. New wheels installed, NS01's in 17x9.5 +15 with a 5mm slip on behind them to fill the guard. I think it's another one of those wheels that look a lot better on the car than off. I think it looks pretty bloody good, but the tyre is a bit stretched. really need a 245 on there. next step: gtr indicators, step after that: flared rear guards to fit the rear wheels

1 week anniversary bump. Bonnet will be stripped of lining and going to the tip next week if no one wants it.

what sort of boost are you running to make the 306? What happens if you add more? Has anyone determined that it's the turbine side thats limiting the set up? Have you played with turbine housings to see what effect it has? I've seen your dyno sheet and, to be honest, it's pretty bloody impressive to have the midrange and top end you have considering the relatively low capacity and relatively large turbo (and turbine housing A/R). Personally i'd leave it, unless you are chasing a number.

cept it only has 2 wires...and the r32 speedo is mechanical

Sounded like a bargain, until...

ds2500 used to be a good bang for your buck pad, the price seems to have increased recently from ~250 to closer to 300. You may as well order some project mu HC+ 0-800 pads from nengun for 225 these days if you don't need them straight away. The price of these has come down a lot lately.

32gtr has the cooling loop in front of the AC core. If you are fitting a proper cooler then it's just a matter of removing the hoses at each end where they go through the radiator support next to the drivers side headlight and running new lines from there, then ripping out the factory loop. Then just top up the fluid, start the car and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock for a while, checking the fluid level as you do and topping up as necessary. When it stops making odd noises you are done.

pumping the brake will have no effect on the hand brake mechanism. They are not connected at all. But no, what you are describing doesn't sound normal. Best to remove the rotor and check the operation of the brake.

The spring rate is the spring rate it doesn't change from car to car. The difference is in the suspension design. URAS has stated the same above, though using toyota as an example.

imagine you have replace all 4 coilovers in your car with steel rods. Thats how it will feel on all but the smoothest bit of road.

lol. What, all 5 of us? If you were after 235/45-17's then amec or gordon leven tyres seem to be line ball in the low 300's for new RE55's.

If you are going all adjustable arms i think you will have to get used to nvh very quickly....

now that i have fitted s14 LCA's to regain track width and a dogbone style adjustable upper arm the car is handling fairly well again..... I also fitted copies of the mfr tie rod ends with sealed longer ball joint (as opposed to the rose joint type ones). No more bump steer

you've mentioned in another thread that your rack ends were shot haven't you roy? It's a relatively cheap fix, even buying new nissan, atleast in comparison to upgraded shocks and springs and stuff (which won't be able to perform anyway if your alignment can change as loading changes). I think you'll find that will make a huge difference to the stability. Alloy collars are cheap, easy to install and will stop any excess movement of the subframe if you can handle a bit more nvh. Giant mentioned the movement in the rear arms, makes me wonder whether i have wasted a lot of money by doing all the bushes....though id be interested to know whether your car has the larger diameter shorter bushes or the smaller longer z32 style ones on the lower control arm. Mine has the smaller ones.

I have removed the stock coolant bleed and fitted the header tank. The bottom fitting is teed into the bottom radiator hose, third from top goes to the radiator overflow pipe and the radiator cap is replaced with a straight blanking cap, second from top goes to where the old bleed went (so it's the high point to allow any bubbles into the tank) and the top one goes to the overflow. So basically any air/steam is now going to the header tank which is the high point and bleeding off to the overflow, rather than being trapped in the engine. An extra bit of capacity would probably help but then mounting would become a bigger hassle. I have clear lines on it too rather than the blue in the picture. You'd be surprised how much froth comes out of the top of the radiator after a session on the track. I thought i'd done the head gasket the first time i saw it.

I tend to think you are pushing the limit of the stock cooling system, which probably isn't in the best condition after 13 or so years of use. Give it a proper flush, definitely upgrade the radiator as it may be ok for now, but as power increases so does excess heat. Get an oil cooler, it isn't the most critical thing in your case as you have a water cooled turbo and a bigger radiator is helping there, but again, it helps. I run around wakefield with around 260rwkw, a 40mm radiator, an oil cooler and a just jap header tank. my car can get in about 10 laps before i give it a cool down for half a lap where it sheds heat very quickly by maintaining highish corner speeds just in a higher gear than normal so you aren't into it as much. Nick mentioned oil pressure and temp gauges. I'd add water to the list. it's good to know what's happening at a glance. and you don't know if the water temp is stable or climbing with a stock gauge until it is too late. forget about the pod. All it does is make a whistling noise for the punters on the pit wall.

cept the substrate in the catco ones comes loose and can slide back and forth....it doesn't effect performance though as mines been like that almost since new.

If they are bolt on, then i expect they are ok. I'd expect your offset would look terrible without them

your calculations are correct, but ideally you need to measure the offset from the centre of the rim. You have assumed the width from lip to lip is 9.5 inches, when it is probably a bit wider than that as the lip flares out. Measure the total width from lip to lip and sub that for the 9.5 and 8.5 in your initial calculation. It should give a more accurate result. Offsets like that will not fit an r32, you will need absolute maximum of +40 on the rear and even that will probably require some shaving of the hicas rack end. Fronts need to be closer to +30 to look right. Quick edit: I have a set of similar wheels also in 17x9 +25 apparently. mine are stern kaisers according to the center caps, but i have 2 different center caps between the 4 wheels so they could be anything.

pics added. Dave, 2 of the wheels have no rash and are in surprisingly good condition, one has a very small mark on the lip and one has a bit of rash (i've added a photo of the rash). cheers Dave