BHDave

Hi guys, I'm clearing out some of the larger bits and pieces from my garage as they are taking up too much space. Stock stuff Bonnet sold R32GTSt driver side front guard, gunmetal, straight, paint in good condition with a few minor blemishes and light scratches. compliance indicators are still installed $75 R32GTSt passenger side front guard, gunmetal, slight kink where the tyre nicked the guard at a skid pan day but barely noticeable, paint ok, compliance indicators still installed $65 R32GTSt stock rims with shot tyres. I think they are in reasonable condition, there's almost certainly some gutter rash but i haven't looked closely in the last few years since they were taken off. $200 for the 4 R33GTSt front half of the manual tail shaft, i got it to pinch the yoke for my gear box swap, ended up getting a new one. $25. Performance stuff M's K&N pod. One of the big ones including the adapter to bolt to the stock afm. Also fits z32 afm. used. looks to be in reasonable condition $50 X Force 3.5 inch straight through cannon. Universal fit, brand new, never used (the plug has been used as it fit my current exhaust) $100 I'll post some more pics up tomorrow when the light is better. All prices ono. Pick up only at Campbelltown NSW for the stock stuff as it's just too big/heavy/easily damaged for postage. pod can be posted at buyers expense. Thats all i can think of atm cheers Dave

Talk to martins clutch and brake on blaxland road. They can get xtreme stuff if you are that way inclined, or damped full face stuff. I am running an xtreme 9 puck cushioned button and it drives almost stock to be honest.

you are kinda correct. You need to maintain the same rolling diameter (within a few mm). The easiest way to do that is to run the same size tyre front and rear. He has a 32 gtr as you can't fit that size wheel under a gtst guard without a lot of work

just do anything that looks shot. castor rods already mentioned, maybe rack boots, maybe tie rod ends or tie rods. I'd probably replace the rubber bushes on the end of the swaybar link with polyurethane ones. You can really go overboard if you want and swap just about everything.

i did s14 as it's rather hard to find a pair of r33 ones. the front left is always bent for some odd reason....lots of right ones available though I installed roll center adjusters and found that i lost width at the base of the hub, so effectively lost track and camber. The s14 arms were needed to get it back.

750 is supply only or supply and install with you supplying the second hand gtr pressure plate? If it's supply only it's way over priced. edit: just a quick question; Whats wrong with the JJ pressure plate? Have you considered a straight swap to a 9 puck cushioned/damped ceramic while retaining the existing pressure plate?

have you checked against an r180 diff? There's also the possibility if it's a nismo center then the shafts can be specials...

from ferni's first link Different materials coefficient of thermal conductivity Air 0.025 Aluminum 220 Titanium 7.4-22.0 (Depending on alloy and temp) Usually roughly equivalent to Stainless Steel. Steel 46 Stainless Steel 15 Copper 401 Concrete 1.0 Glass 1.1 Rubber 0.16 Wood 0.04-0.4 Cork 0.05 Ti and stainless steel are roughly equivalent. What are the factory ones made from? I call magic beans. get some hardwood pads

factory manual, hence the modded cross member. AFAIK the auto r32 shell allows a straight bolt up with a manual cross member. That would have been nice. Shifter position is fine, not a great deal different to when i had the 20 box. Some clown decided to mod the shifter on my box by chopping some of the thread off it (left about a cm) but otherwise its stock. Doesn't stick out above the gear boot or anything odd like that. From memory the top of the shifter hole still sat below the level of the hole in the body work on mine, even before i mangled it for extra clearance. Out of interest, did you lower your engine to fit the rb30 under the r32 bonnet? could the lower front half be messing with the back half? I just don't know how you can have the thing sitting that high at the back without it fouling on the tunnel further forward.

i found that making sure the box was mounted at the same level in relation to the bolt holes on the tunnel worked for me. I used 5mm plate to modify the crossmember so the box/mount was effectively spaced down 5mm, then spaced it back up 5mm with some plate between the rubber mount and the crossmember. I had some vibration issues at about 130-140km/h with the single piece shaft prior to spacing the box back up, and ultimately spacing it up by 5mm fixed it. I bent the tunnel up to clear the top of the box too.

wakefield? If so then you have no issue with your alignment for general day to day driving. It just hammers front left tyres

I have only ever seen them for sale separately on the nagisa auto site (jp site). Don't have a link atm, you'll have to google it.

You are aware that the 326 is a pretty shit tyre right? I wouldn't expect much more from a durun (whom i've never heard of before, and i've heard of some pretty odd tyre brands too) Of all the cheapy "sports" tyres the federal 595ss seems to get the best feedback. No idea what a set in 18's is worth.

They are a good unit. Pretty big though. As long as it's plumbed back in it will be fine.

You can overheat any tyre. If you are pushing on street tyres you will start to melt them at the edge of the tread blocks. On wakefield the front passenger side tyre gets worked hard and you will see little strips of melted rubber hangin off the inner edges of the treads after a session. And T1r's and AD07's aren't exactly $100 tyres. If you try and accelerate hard out of a corner on cheap narrow street rubber, particularly with little suspension work done, you will spin up the wheels. At wakefield you will almost certainly have problems coming out of turn 2 and heading up the hill, out of turn 4 across the top, possibly out of turns 7 and 8 (fish hook) and almost definately out of turn 10 coming onto the straight. Remembering that the more you spin the wheels, the hotter the tyres get, the worse the grip is, and so it's more likely that you spin the wheels...... Admittedly i was lapping in the low 13's on the nankangs so I was asking a lot of them. In the initial sessions I was all over the place, once i got used to them and smoothed out my driving a bit they came good and were fairly consistant.

wrxhoon is correct, turbosloth seems very confused, everyone who said thrust bearing is plain wrong. for reference, thrust and throw out bearing are different terminology for the same bearing, turbosloth is confusing the spigot bush/bearing with throw out bearing. And all gears have to run though the lay shaft as you have a separate input and output shaft and they have to be connected some how for the box to work. So to answer the original question, yes, the input shaft will be rotating and thats why you han hear the bearings. If you have good condition gearbox mounts and sound deadening still installed, along with all boots and a stock shifter you should barely hear it. Nissan puts in a lot of work to reduce NVH in these cars. If you have an aftermarket shifter you will almost certainly hear it. If it's noisey as f**k, then i'd get confirmation that all the bearings were changed when the box was recoed.

As long as you aren't expecting to set any records, the stock wheels and reasonable street tyres will do fine. A couple of things worth considering: 1) make sure they are an appropriate speed rating, you'll probably hit 160+ at the end of the straight without a problem. 2) Expect to over heat them so they will likely feel a bit greasy after a few laps 3) If they are new and have a lot of tread blocks expect to feel the car walk around on the tread. 4) Throttle control is going to be pretty important as you will cook the tyres easily on corner exit. I did a day on nankangs recently. Thats what i noticed.

get genuine flywheel bolts. gear box bolts can be had from anywhere.

if you look closer at the compatibility details for the gears it will say something like "rb25 ex only" the inlet only fits rb20's and 26's. the exhaust fits 20,25 and 26. if you really want to fit them that bad you can go and buy a new inlet cam to suit an rb20. I'm also wondering why you are removing the VCT. Not a worthwhile mod if you are still running small drop in cams.

the steering is related to a hicas error. most likely the hicas computer isn't receiving a speed signal.

mine has had that bit floating around for years with no problem. I initially thought it was a seal, but if it was then i'd have dumped all my power steering fluid on the ground many times over by now. I wouldn't be too concerned, it's probably just a stop of some description to stop metal-metal contact wne the steering is at full lock

Whats been done to it between tuning and getting it back? because a light load misfire is pretty bloody obvious and your tuner should have mentioned something. He must have done some light load tuning, and because the ecu is map based a vacuum leak doesn't really affect it if it was tuned with it. so, it's either a vacuum leak thats happened after the tune, a sticky injector maybe, or the tune is up to shit.

I'm running longlife slotted on the rear. no return slots, no cracks. I'm running a fairly ordinary rear pad too that wears out at the rate of 1 set/3 track days.

Guys, you really need to understand what is happening with engine breathing before even considering messing with the breather lines. So many people still get it wrong and it's not hard. If you install a vented catch can and don't block the pcv valve off as well you introduce a vacuum leak and the car will run like shit at idle and when in vacuum as the pcv valve is open and sucking air straight into the plenum via the can. If you block where you have shown then the car will be fine at idle and in vacuum as the pcv valve still works, but get into boost and you pressurize the sump and blow the dip stick out and coat the engine bay with oil. What wazR32 has stated is the only legal (and non smelly) way to do it, that won't result in a pressurized sump. And a healthy rb25 will not pump it's oil out at sustained high revs. I have taken my catch can off as it was still dry after 2 track days, i have run no catch can (breather plugged straight back into the intake as per factory) at the last 2 track days with no issues. my intake pipe is still clean. Different story with built engine and N1 pump.

the oil and water factory lines have a fair bit of play in them. they are not rigid enough to prevent you properly tightening the turbo to manifold nuts. they'd move first.