BHDave

This will not cause a problem at all. Give the engine a longer crank. you will not build much pressure doing 5 second bursts, and like you said the oil feed for the turbo is up fairly high. It'll take a good 30 second crank to get the factory low pressure light off. personally, id unhook the oil return and put in into a bucket and then start the engine, give it 10 seconds and then switch it off. then go check the bucket. You didn't have oil issues before, whats changed now to make you think you have some?

yeah the lock bar uses the existing rack ends, just replaces the rack, so if the ball joints are shagged the lock bar won't help. I've only had inners die on me. T04GTR has on going issue with the outer ones from memory.

sounds like the hicas is turning one way and so he is automatically correcting. remember that the steering wheel has a connection to the rack, so if the steering wheel turns you are turning the front wheels, the steering wheel just can't turn on it's own without turning the wheels. problem. the hicas controller is stuffed. solution. replace the controller or get a lock bar. it happened to me but it was a bit random and generally when accelerating hard, so i locked the rear rack.

In a map sensor application it doesn't matter if it's plumbed back or atmo as there is no air flow meter. The ecu uses the TPS and map sensor as it's primary inputs. dumping air out on gear changes doesn't matter to it. For todd, the bov issue referred to by the rest of the clowns in this thread is caused by the extra fuel that is being put into the cylinder as a result of the atmo bov dumping metered air in an afm equiped situation. basically, air comes in afm say's you have x amount of air, ecu says ok, i'll put in y amount of fuel, bov dumps most of the air, super rich stall inducing mixtures. On to the problem(s); I think you have 2 separate issues, 1) the return to idle tune is up to shit and needs to be looked at. As with the bov, a vacuum leak in this situation won't cause you to stall. I'd suggest going to see a tuner who is familiar with this type of ecu and get him to take the car for a drive and see for himself. If it's stalling some of the time, i expect it is overshooting the idle revs on decel all the time and dropping to 3-400 regularly which it shouldn't do either. 2) the surging on acceleration is possibly coils, possibly a dodgy highflow (i don't know what sort of turbo you have), possibly dying fuel pump. Again, if you go and see a tuner and get the car run up on the dyno you can check for fuel, you can hear compressor surge, you can hear and see missfires.

That really sounds like a short has killed the fuse and relay in the first place, to me anyway. in order to pop a fuse you have to pull too much current through it, same thing kills relays. Do the checks to see what is still working, getting power etc, then rewire accordingly.

Isn't the fuel pump relay and fuse under the bonnet? It's common for s13's to pop fuses when they upgrade the pump, i'd say it's the prime suspect here as well. I can't remember how low your car is but it's worth checking that you haven't eaten into the wiring in the inner guards. Then it's just a matter of checking the wiring, make sure the trigger for the fuel pump relay is ok, that the relay has power to it, that it has power going to the pump at that end. A rewire is worthwhile to maintain voltage to the pump, but you still want to trigger it off the ecu so the pump will stop if you have an acco, rather than keep running if it's straight off the ignition.

the pic is of your brake light switch, not the adjuster.

i actually went from a TS2A to a 9 puck XHD extreme After the twin plate the single was a joy to drive and was about the same weight as stock. Still doesn't slip on me and still nice to drive

The A measurement isn't offset. All that says is you need 43mm min clearance from the back of the spoke to the back of the hub at about a 200mm radius. (you probably need about 48mm to be safe to allow for rocks and shit). That said, most GTR offsets will give you that sort of clearance, 9 +18, +22, 9.5 +15..... they all have heaps of room in that area. I'd say some 17's might be a little too small to fit over those calipers so you will need to be careful there, or go 18's and be certain. If in doubt, trial fit.

hang on. is the play in the ball joint or the rear rack itself?

123 or 126 each for my r32gtst, also from nissan. still not cheap but i just couldn't handle the way the back end felt when they were sloppy

Lol. i used to have an OS twin plate and was quite pleased with myself if i made it somewhere without stalling. I was a happy boy when i went back to a single purely as i wasn't worried i was going to stall every time i pulled away. I think i've stalled less in the last year than i did in my best week with the twin plate.

Get them replaced. There should be virtually no play.

maybe, i don't know that the diff ratios are different for certain. The p/s is mostly mechanical, not electric. when the engine runs the pump and everything are working. All the ecu does is bypass some of the fluid via a solenoid to adjust the weight depending on speed. Thats why, with everything working as it should and a low speed signal it should have very light steering. If it doesn't and you have followed the guide then you have another problem that is either causing the solenoid to stay open and bypass or the rack or pump has issues.

If anything your steering should be light all the time with that fault. I'm also inclined to think that you have not installed the speed sensor correctly and it is skipping as that is the only way i can see you having such a massive differential in speed reading. Assuming a slightly different diff ratio for auto r33's you may expect your speedo to be out by maybe 10-15% max. Just as a trial. plug the hicas unit back in and turn on the car. You should have light steering again. If you don't the fault is related to whatever wiring you did during your gearbox swap, or by pure fluke something else in the power steering system has broken at the same time as you did the work.

It doesn't. the map sensor in the 32 is specifically for the gauge and nothing else.

It's the anti surge mod on the front of the compressor housing. Makes it whistle like a mofo

Out of interest roy, what prompted the brake change? You already had the 324mm rotor and caliper adapter right?

Just a couple of observations; none of the skylines (yes is know you have a stag but its the same basic setup) have caster adjustment from factory. It doesn't prevent the toe being set correctly. All jax would need to do is set front and rear toe, and rear camber. If the rest of the suspension is stock and in good condition then the factory range of adjustment is easily capable of getting the wheels straight. When you had the caster rods modded i assume you shortened them. When you shorten caster rods you pull the wheel forward which due to the suspension geometry increases the amount of toe in. They would have then dialled that out with the alignment. You would not have been driving with 18mm of toe in prior to the caster rod mod. If you had you would have heard the tyres screaming when you were driving at 80km/h. And you wouldn't have had 18mm of toe in prior to having jax look at it or your last tyres wouldn't have lasted. Out side tyre wear is an indicator of too much toe in (which is pretty hard to get wrong), positive camber (you would have been told about that, and the likely hood of both wheel having + camber is pretty remote as the stock geometry means you have a little neg camber), excessive understeer (which is a factory handling trait if you chuck it into corners too hot). The solution is a second opinion on the alignment and condition of the suspension. If that shows all good then you need to look at how you drive your car (you mention hard driving after all). I'd be interested to know what you did to the caster rods and why as well

have you got all the bits in there and the little cap on the end of the shifter? The link you have shows all the bits you should have. If you have them all and it's still loose then i'm at a loss

Your speedo cable is broken. get a new one and install it and it will fix all your issues.

And this children, is how to have a rant. Please pay particular attention 1) controlled use of swearing in order to maximize it's effect, 2) Use of fact's to back the initial argument/premise of the rant and 3) general reference to external threads at which the rant is aimed. If you are having a rant, do it properly. Nice work GTST

2 small screwdrivers. use the 2 cut outs on the side to get it in past the top of the hole then just progressively slide it down until it slips into the groove. I've done it once and it's a bit of a PITA but not too hard.

What oil pressure gauge you running baron?

I disagree on the order of importance slightly. I'd put water temp higher up as it's easier to tell whats happening at a glance of an analogue meter rather than trying to read the pfc screen when the sun is on it and the cars bouncing around a track. Boost goes lower on the list as it's just another gauge that bounces around. boost controller with peak protection and peak recall will do it. You don't need to see what boost it's making all the time. I look at mine maybe once in a session on the track just to make sure the peak is right, then don't look at it again. Oil and water temp as well as oil pressure get checked once a lap. I'm giving serious consideration to installing a bigger oil pressure gauge with built in low pressure light next to my boost gauge on the a pillar and ditching the egt thats there atm.