BHDave

buy 2 20L jerry cans and fill up before you leave. depending on where you are travelling from you may need to buy 3 unless you don't mind chugging home on 98. You really have no option. I tend to go through about 100L on a trip from campbelltown to wakefield and back with 7-8 sessions on the track

it's the same as a 20det box, not a 25det box. But yes, the engine will bolt up to it.

Thanks for the cut and paste. saves me spending the time doing my own research, and makes you feel like a bigger man by proving me wrong. It's win-win!

I have ssr indy 500's. nice wheels, 3 piece old school design. They aren't forged, i don't think any ssr's are forged.....

Yours is off an rb20 by the look of it.

check that the clutch is adjusted properly. Sounds like pressure is not being allowed to escape the system and so as it all heats up, the fluid expands and starts dissengaging the clutch, which means higher pedal. Climb under the car and check that the piston on the slave can be pushed back easily by hand. If it can't then I'm right. Check that you have a genuine r32 master cylinder too. S14 ones fit and cause this problem as they are a touch shorter in the body so the piston doesn't move back far enough when the pedal is up. You should have enough range of adjustment at the pedal that you can pull the piston back enough to release the pressure. If that doesn't work, start looking for a new master cylinder...

I twas probably a good thing that chris had his rear bar off for painting...

Check the obvious stuff like speed sensor is still hooked up and the diff sensor is plugged in. If the wiring for the swap has been done properly it shouldn't contribute, but it's pretty common to have no speed sensor connected to the ecu after a swap.

The underside of my car is just caked in mud. I would have liked a bit of rain on the way home just to clean it off. No expensive damage for me, just an exhaust stud ripped out of the head. More of a pain than anything, as it will require removal of the manifold to get access to it to drill and helicoil.

There are plenty of 8/9 pairs in decent offsets in 4 stud as s13's run them. look for somewhere around +30 8 inch front and +35 9 inch rear. Thats on the conservative side too. You could probably space them out a bit on a 33 and still have space inside the guards.

Yeah, there was a third. I saw it as i came out of the fish hook and drove past you parked on the side of the track liz. My front end just slid away from me horribly. I thought something had broken. I took the entry a bit differently and had the front's loaded up when they hit it so not as dramatic a lose for me. Which andrew had to leave a car there?

my nismo uses an 80w-90. It may be worth checking with a cusco supplier about what oil is best for your diff. It's also worth confirming the type of diff as there is an MZ and RS (i think) from memory, and they are different designs. Other than that, sounds fairly normal, though the whine isn't a good sign. Do you know if the back lash was set properly when the center was installed?

11mm + 1/4 inch further out so roughly 17mm out

If you don't upgrade the pressure plate the only way you will increase the capacity is by running a button style clutch which will reduce drivability. I'd recommend an xtreme xhd pressure plate with a full face clutch plate. Similar weight on the pedal due to a revised pivot point in the pressure plate and it retains very close to stock drivability.

Happy birthday liz. I hope you're well pissed by now

Your tyres also sound too small. stock gtst size is 205/55-16. Anyway, you need to do 3 things. 1) get some better tyres in the right size, 2) get a front camber kit, you will not be able to dial out all the understeer without one, and also some caster rods or bushes, 3) upgrade your swaybars.

8.5 +32's all round If you aren't confident with offsets than it's worth trial fitting some similar rims before you commit. I'm 99% certain you will fit 8.5 +32's under the front with no guard mods, provided you stick with a 235 or smaller tyre.

no idea why they are saying the 46 is the way to go. Honestly you would end up with sunken battleship stylz. If anything i'd be looking for a lower offset than the 36 as the wheels are only 8.5 as opposed to 9. Just as a reference, i had 17x9 +35's under the back of my 32 gtst and they were spot on for offset. the 33 has a bit more guard to fill.

is your car lower on the left than the right? Your left hand numbers are both higher than the right.... but yes, too much rear camber, not enough front. You also have toe in all around? i'd zero it.

*in dead pan voice; Oh no, who will save me from the horrible rb25?!? Nice to hear it was a cheap fix

If the turbo isn't a gtrs or better bolt on, then tell him to go to a work shop. You could easily spend an entire weekend installing all those bits and still be a long way short of finished when you realise you can't get custom lines for the turbo on a sunday arvo, or bits of pipe for the custom intake piping, or you split an oring installing the new injectors, or you snap some studs off in the head and then snap the easy out off in there. No mention of a dump pipe so i assume there isn't one And you haven't mentioned a wastegate either or that matter. Seriously, If you snap 3 studs on the manifold (likely) and you are a first timer, you will spend all day trying to get them out.

yep, 200 or so will have it starting to slip at peak torque and then catch up as the revs increase if it is in good condition.

bin it. You will never reinstall it so why keep the filthy smelly thing? The only parts worth keeping are the lines if you ever decide that 600hp isn't enough and you need to upsize the fuel feed

not at all, but the problem with this turbo in ex gate is that the proper housing only has a t2 inlet flange. I'd say the only rb20/25 manifold that has this flange off the shelf will be a genuine hks one so lots of dollars. easiest is the 3071 as it has the same front end and an uncropped gt30 turbine with a t3 flanged inlet.

HKS non gated housings are all t2 flanged for this turbo. As it has a cropped t3 turbine you can't just slap a garrett turbine housing on there and expect it to be anything other than ordinary. so you can either braze up the internal gate, get a new manifold with a t2 size flange and a hks non gated turbine housing, or sell it and get a proper 3071 which will fit a t3 flanged manifold.