BHDave

There's one for sale in the private parts section atm, or atleast it was still there a few days back. And in your price range too

The non genuine filters were clogging up over the course of a few days, so the car just ran worse and worse. We pulled the tank off and cleaned it and swapped the filter and it made no difference, it died in the arse after 3 days. The next weekend he put a genuine filter on and no more problems.

Drive it now, it's fine with a couple of missing studs. Though having 4 go missing is odd, it's usually the 2 end ones (1 & 6) I found the parts place at penrith to be the easiest to deal with out of all of them so far. Campbelltown can do it but tend to grumble a bit if you don't have the vin and chassis numbers (bit hard when you have a 25det in a 32) but you can coax them into it and you'll get the right part. For studs though i'd get aftermarket, same with nuts. you do need the thick washers though, but if you can pinch them off something in a wreckers that works too. Yep, stock gasket costs about 130. I haven't had an issue with one yet so will continue to get original ones. I tend to get single layer turbo gaskets these days though and haven't had an issue with them at all.

It may be worth while checking the return line for blockages. If the tank is full of rust, there's a fair chance the return line has some gunk in it too. It's a bit odd that the reg isn't opening as that implies that the rail is only just getting about 40psi to it. check the fuel pressure i suppose. The in tank filter may be clogging up pretty quick creaking a blockage that way. I had a mate with a similar problem until he went back to a genuine nissan in tank sock.

1:17 is pretty respectable in a near stock 32 with street tyres and stock suspension. Actually, i'd say very respectable. I'm with duncan, i'd have expected your passenger side front outside edge to be toast with the sort of plough understeer nissan engineered into the front end of a 32

The front cover won't clear the vtc gear.

Just a quick update and more insights into what happens to the front end geometry of a skyline when you change things around. So i swapped the arms around this morning so that they are staggered forward again. I also double checked and yep, the outer on the arms sits 5mm further forward than stock so i will have lost caster. But i did gain camber, somehwere in the order of -.5-1 degree by eye And here's the funny part, as it rotated the upright so much the height of the car dropped by about 10mm due to strut alignment changes i guess. I had to wind the coilovers back up. bonus 10mm extra travel before i hit the bump stops

Don't know but likely not too good. For a few of reasons, but the 2 main ones are 1) it's too cheap, and i don't mean by a little bit and 2) they don't even have pictures of the actual rb kit, and the kit they have pictured doesn't even have a 38mm wastegate, it has a copy of a 50mm hks gate so straight away you aren't getting that gate. And the rest, because it's probably worth noting anyway. no specs on the turbo, they claim horsepower ranges from 220rwkw up to 550hp or so, it talks about running it in the stock location which says it's internally gated maybe? I dunno, also 5 bolt flange, again a bit odd, the 38mm gate they are offering is probably an hks copy which sell for around 200 bucks. The genuine article is 700 on it's own. So basically that leaves 500 for a turbo and a manifold, of which neither can be of any high standard when you consider the price of branded equivalents, or even copy equivalents. Is that enough to convince you it's not worth buying? I haven't even talked about the cost of fitting yet....

I'll start by saying it doen't sound like your box is going to die, it's just old and showing it. It will go for years yet unless you do something stupid, like put a 300rwkw rb30 in front of it. It sounds a bit like syncros to me. I'd say a previous owner like to bang it into second a bit too much. You can try a better gear oil for a start and see if it makes the shift a bit smoother. A lot of people will recommend redline shock proof. I won't as it isn't made for syncro boxes, though it works well by all accounts. You may want to try gearbox express in ingleburn aswell if it is really shitting you. Their prices are very reasonable. I had an rx7 box done there a few years back including removal and install it was silly cheap (about $700 from memory). A mate just had his NA VL 5 speed recoed there for about 800 from memory (not including install). It's a similar box to the rb20det one so the price is probably similar.

hi geoff, pm sent re lower control arms. cheers Dave

34gtt. the 32gtr calipers and rotors are a down grade on what you have. Well the rotors are as they are 14mm smaller and the gtr caliper is pretty much identical internally to your 34 caliper but made to suit a smaller rotor.

personally, i think the .68 is the gun 2835 street turbo, good for a genuine 270 odd rwkw. The .87 should give you a bit more top end at the expense of response, but it shouldn't be too bad. Obviously cams/manifolds etc will all play a part in your ultimate power/response. Have a look at dangermans thread re his manifold swap and results. It's a good read.

GT35R is a 3582R in current speak yeah? so by 66mm are you talking about the inducer size? going from an 82mm wheel up to like a 94mm wheel which has about a 68mm inducer? The thing will be a nugget! That assumes you can fit all the bits together. You'll get more benefit from fitting a bigger exhaust housing than you will from increasing the compressor side and leaving the exhaust alone. Or if you are really concerned then do it properly and get a 4088 which at least has a matched compressor and turbine and will flow more than enough for your power target assuming the engine can breath well enough.

One of my mates has it. It's a nice piece of kit. The interface is fantastic. It was used to tune his SR cefiro. Have you tried getting it through plms? http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/realtime.shtml contact details are at the bottom of the page.

http://www.xspeed.com.au/manuals/Apexi_S-AFC_manual.pdf Here's the instruction manual for the old one. There is a high/low map. the cut over point is adjustable and based on throttle position. I see where you are coming from re the percentage reduction though as you could end up with a lean situation, particularly on something like an r33/s14 with aggressive r&r at the high airflow but not so bad at lower airflow (ie the 15 vs 10psi scenario) Ideally, you'd have to set it up on the dyno and check it, then try a few runs at lower boost to see what happens, make adjustments accordingly and compromise your high boost tune. Or if you are a nut bag like me, you run the max possible boost all the time (except on the track because you have no fine control of the throttle on corner exit )

It'll be perished/damaged hose, loose hose clamp, or damaged bit of pipe on the filter. I'm assuming the stock high pressure filter in the engine bay? Worst case a blocked reg, but you'd need a pump capable of pushing 100+ psi into the system to burst good condition efi fuel hose. If it's spitting fuel out it indicates pressure so these nothing wrong with pump or wiring.

non necessarily, though with any s chassis coilovers it's more than likely that the tops are pillow ball and camber adjustable. Pros. you can adjust camber and there is no un wanted movement in the top of the strut allowing for dynamic alignment changes (pretty negligable really with good condition rubber mounts) Cons. The pillow ball flogs out eventually and starts to knock. Increased NVH due to the metal on metal design of the top.

If it doesn't have the solenoid then forget it. Thats the best part of the unit. As for wiring. blue wire and white wire to the solenoid, red is power, black is ground and the boost signal.

hks! 256 8.8 inlet, 264 9.0 exhaust. If you can find some old apexi cams they used to make some bigger drop ins. same sort of lift, just longer duration. Up to about 280's from memory

This is the answer to the second question i hadn't gotten around to asking yet Obviously the caster is going to have minimal effect at small steering angles, at which point the camber has to be there to work the tyres properly. I would assume increasing both camber and caster would see the dynamic camber way too high on slow tight corners too. Thanks for the input everyone. Quick question for salad; When you put the arms back in the right way what did your camber increase to?

You already broke your spell checker! Hooray!

It shows it on the box. Yes, there is a late model specific one aswell. I didn't consider the indicators and my hicas is locked so bought the early model one as it was on the shelf thinking it would make no difference.

Excellent. Thats good to know as the z has a similar front end to the 32

Unfortunately the box for my boss is sitting in storage atm so it is a bit difficult for me to get it. I have to start carting stuff back down there shortly though so i can have a look then and see if there's anything written on the box.

I run an early model specific hkb in a late model gtst. With hicas locked it only effects the indicator stalk. I've been meaning to remove it and mod the boss for a while now as it looks like a pretty simple job, just a bit of sheet aluminium and a couple of self tappers will do it. My horn stopped working too, so i really should get onto that before rego...