BHDave

I have these upper arms. Note that the position of the mounts is parallel as opposed to staggered with the out side forward on a stock arm. If you rotate one end the castor is either increased by a ridiculous amount over stock or reduced by a small amount depending on which way you fit it (noting that the inner and outer mount lengths are different so there are only 2 ways it can go in). left straight i'd say it gains atleast 2 degrees, haven't got it aligned yet to confirm the angle. But i can increase the castor further by rotating the outer end. Installed pic Hopefully this link works. By winding them in and out it effects camber, so it does both, though i'm interested in castor at this stage. Booster, definately installed right. I don't know if the stock gtr and gtst upper arms are different as i have never looked at a stock gtr upper arm beside a gtst one. During install i had the stock arm sitting on the ground next to the aftermarket one and as noted above it was either lose castor or gain castor. I went for gain because i've always understood more is better, but how much more?

how long is a piece of string? It depends on lots of things, tune being the most important. Personally, if you keep your revs within reason so you aren't overly stressing the rods and you keep the boost reasonable so you aren't floating valves, and you keep your knock levels down, it will just keep going until the rings and bearings wear our and it gets a bit breathy, same as a built engine. Don't bounce it off the limiter either or you will kill the oil pump drive. Otherwise, happy driving.

Simple question; Is there such a thing as too much castor? If you can get up into the 11-13 range is it worth it? Can you run significantly less camber as a result or is it pretty negligible once you get past a certain point? Does too much castor bugger up the inside wheel geometry significantly after a certain point when it's turned? No drive shaft angle issues, no scrubbing on the front of the guard issues. I have none of them. I have installed a set of GTR adjustable upper arms in a gtst and it has shifted the top outer mount back a good 15-20mm. So bulk castor when combined with the 8 degrees i had to begin with. cheers Dave edit: I can't spell

I had a quick search and yeah, there's bugger all info out there. I found an old post on performance forums where the guy reckoned xspeed could tune them. That doesn't really help but atleast gives you a lead to find out what they are. From the look of it they are the ancestors of the safc and sitc. Are there any trim pots on there that can be adjusted with a little screwdriver or anything like that? can you open them? Anyway, http://www.xspeed.com.au/index.php if you want to follow that up If it's running badly and you want to sort it out properly then it's worth talking to dr drift about a remap and removal of the piggy backs i think.

SAU Nickname: BHDave Car Make and Model: 92 GTSt Circuit Name: Wakefield Lap time: 1:12.37 (natsoft) Modifications Engine: RB25DET Power: ~260rwkw (was only running 1.2 bar) Suspension: Cusco Comp 1s, 24mm f&r sway bars, lots of adjustable bushes and arms Tyres: 215/45 17 AO48 front 235/45 17 RE55 rear Brakes: R34GTt calipers with p mu rotors and pads Body weight: stock minus back seat and spare 2nd time on a track, understeering pig all day combined with a ham fisted driver = not good I think i have a bit of work ahead of me to make it onto the list. should be fun

Abu; dude, you need to think about what you want to type before you type. You just seem to go around in circles. gts4-32; A real time re map of your stock ecu will give excellent results. I suspect the tuners you have talked to thought you were talking about a generic chip swap, which are generally a best guess based on the information you give, as opposed to a proper real time tune. And just clarifying what some of the other guys have posted, you definately need to keep the resistor pack. Your safc can run bigger injectors, though it is not ideal. Thats why it needs switchable maps for high and low boost settings, particularly if your stock afm runs out of resolution. You really need to get rid of one of the piggy backs. Can you post pics of the old apexi unit so we can figure out what it is?

Did they even make an 06 16C? Sounds like it would be more at home with an 05 turbine. Anyway. I will assume you won't be able to resist turning up the boost, yes. Tune it.

I've seen a few sets of the same style on yahoo auctions. You do know you will have to mod all 4 guards to fit those don't you? Assuming you're getting the otomoto set.

Buddy club over super streets every time. I agree with Justin on pretty much everything. Though once you get up to the tien monoflex you are starting to compare apples with apples feature wise. N spec ( i assume n spec at that price) vs super street there really is no competition. Oh shit. Just realized how old this thread is!

I'm not an expert on the safc but i have seen cars run bigger injectors with them. It is far from ideal, and you won't make 260 with an safc anyway. Otherwise, if the price is right, grab the injectors and install them with an ecu later on. The nismos are a straight drop in and easily capable of supplying enough fuel for 260.

The factory bov has a bypass in it to make the operation a bit smoother. That may be causing your loss of boost (though 2 psi does seem excessive). You can mod the stock bov to block up this hole. You haven't introduced a leak when changing bovs have you? and it is plumbed back right?

Find out what you can get tyre wise before doing anything else. If you are in sydney give gordon leven tyres a ring and see if the new RE55's are still cheap and what he has available second hand. Try the other motorsport tyre distributors in your area as well to see whats available second hand. Don't get second hand ao48's. they tend to heat cycle worse than anything else and are likely stuffed. Yes falcon wheels will fit. I wouldn't touch them with a 10 foot pole. just get some ugly looking second hand jap rims in good offsets. No one want's the ugly ones so they are cheap (start around 600 a set from importbitz or otomoto). You will end up with either 16 or 17 inch tyres so obviously wheels to suit. I'd be leaning towards 17's pull out the rear seat and you can fit 4 tyres in there.

Could be a japanese brand. cusco offer large diameter bars that are hollow and they come with different mounts.

Project mu make a 2 piece r34 GTt front rotor. I have some. They are tops. Expect to pay close to a grand by the time you have the fronts in your hand.

Just to muddy the water a bit for you. the r32 gtst boss changed between early and late as the steering angle sensor and indicator switch position changed. I think early has the key at about 45 degrees off vertical and the late has it vertical from memory.

If you have an aftermarket actuator (which i assume is adjustable) get rid of the factory solenoid completely and just run the actuator. It removes complexity and a potential problem. Then stick the car on a dyno and see what the boost and afr's are doing. If it's a slug, the dyno will show it's a slug.

Do you drift exclusively? No, then get a 1.5 way. Yes, then get a 2 way. If you get a 2 way and you track your car then you will be driving around the diff on corner entry as it will unsettle the car in anything but a straight line when braking/decellerating. Which means any corners where you have to brake in a curve, arse end tries to come around so you are backing it into corners as Beer Baron has already stated. It's great if your car is an understeery pig as it gets the nose in, but otherwise just a pain. For occasional drift the 1.5 way will do the job. It just means you need to initiate the slide a bit differently. Plenty of guys drift with 1.5 ways.

sprung center. Notice neither of the clutch plates shanef has shown have the springs in the center. cushioned button

I am running pmu HC titan kai's which cost me $340 for fronts a year ago, they are down under $300 a set now. Same track day as Govich, 1 biggish stop coming into the last turn at wakefield on the first lap out got them hot enough and feeling nice for the first big brake at the end of the straight from ~180 No fade all day in 6-12 lap sessions, no cool down laps required (other than when the water temp started to creep up on the longer sessions) Still heaps of pad left after a couple of recent track days, no shudders or noises, no excessive dust, no excessive rotor wear (pmu scr pros) and a tiny bit of squeel at very low speeds. I really can't fault them.

front strut brace is definitely a worth while upgrade, rear less so, but i found i could feel a difference in the way the car handled at low speeds with the rear bar on and off. Rear will fit. Front i cant say. I don't know if it will clear the top of the plenum.

Find a good wheel repair place. They will be able to do it for you. Or at least give you some advice. Disassembly you can probably do your self, but reassembly will require resealing and balancing of the rim. If you separate them yourself then you should also index all the pieces so they go back in the same orientation.

Out of interest, do they actually measure the height of the car off the ground? Could you, for example, get some custom guards that sit the wheel arches higher and then have the ride height below 100mm and be legal?

This eyebrow bullshit again. You're in South Australia right? I'd really love to know if this is a legal measurement as it certainly isn't part of the ADR's. Things like ground clearance, head light height, high mount brake light height all must conform to minimum heights off the ground, but center to guard measurements?

Other than the obvious misfire you have, i'd suggest you have a more restrictive exhaust, and your mates car has a bit of tuning where yours doesn't. Then theres the fairly general term of "T3 turbo". Seriously it could be anything with a t3 flange on it.

I understand that too. But in alot of cases it's people claiming a spot so they have the option. In this case it's pretty bloody obvious that is happening. As soon as the call went out for final payment 10 people dropped out. I specifically didn't sign up for the circuit club day at EC and the wakefield evo day so that i knew my car would be in working order for this day. If shit happens between now and the day and i can't make it I'll accept that i've lost my money, and know that the organiser isn't out of pocket as a result. Seriously, how many more track days do you think the Autosports guys will organize if they lose money on this one as a result of drop outs?