BHDave

Install seat and seat belt and it can be driven. But before it gets driven it will get some semis and bolt on flares and a bit more weight reduction and some tidying up. Still deciding whether to leave the torsen diff in it for it's first outing or put my mech center in now.

sounds like an old plain bearing t3g or similar. definately not a 2530

If it burns your eyes out of your head it's not my fault

Just let go of the wheel. S13's correct themselves. (So do r32's if you can jam enough caster into them) I picked up my new nugget today! It makes tmb's nugget look good....

If in doubt, blame an rx7

they are, but on the 32 shafts theres also a section thats a smaller diameter than the rest. Thats the point it'll fail at if the shaft is going to fail. Alot of people seem to kill the inner CV's before the shaft though which implies thats the weak link.

the s15 center has more splines and a larger diameter from memory. The r32 output shafts won't fit the center. You will need to use the s15 output shaft and the s13 drive shaft. The car i'm buying actually has this done and will get my r32 diff with nismo center and r32 drive shafts installed in it too. You can pretty much swap anything around between s13 and r32 at the back end with no problems. Even the arms, sway bars and struts are interchangable

my r32 drive shafts are fitted to an s13 atm so it'll work the other way too. s13 shafts are no weaker. cheers

yes it does, and thats why i said if you just plug it in it won't work. If you are happy to keep going down that path don't read any further.... ignitors are directional. have a look at a 20 and a 25 one side by side. One has the earth on the input side (so 7 pin input plug, 6 pin output), one on the output side (so 6 pin input, 7 pin output). I also think the earth wire come off the middle pin on the 25 ignitor from memory rather than the end one but i could be wrong. haven't looked for a while. More trivia! On one of them 123456 correlates to cylinder numbers, on the other it's firing order. Again, can't remember which.

The bits that are left.... rb25 det engine loom modded to suit late r32gtst manual. Minor changes will be needed to suit stock afm (4 wires) and o2 sensor(3 wires). currently wired to suit z32AFM $250 s1 rb25det, no coils, no turbo no injectors. sump has a dent in it where it hit the sway bar but can provide a spare, runs well, good compression $1350 GTR front drivers side guard with lip rolled and a small dent above the wheel arch, silver, $200 GTR front drivers side indicator $100 GTSt front guards with compliance indicators, pair $300 rb25 ignitor $125 rb20/25 CAS $100 rb25 clutch slave $50 And the after market bits Just jap B pillar brace $100 Maltech braided brake lines ADR compliant $250 early model hks rb25det cams 256 8.8/264 9.0 inc adjustable exhaust wheel $650. plus a heap of random crap thats still got to be pulled out of the shell

provided the ignitor is wired the right way it will work. If you have just plugged it in it won't work, but it will not kill the ecu (as i have tried it and my ecu lived)

send me a pm with your addy and how much you want to spend. I'll let you know if i can do it for that or not. cheers Dave

i do, It'll be hanging off the back of the engine somewhere. I saw your wtb but figured it'd be quicker for you to get a new one local than me post down a 130k old one so left it alone.

still trying to figure out how ando went off on the inside at the exit from the fish hook. Good day, except for the oil. And the food poisoning i got from the burger i had at lunch....

i'm not seeing a lot of difference between the boost curves there. You have the same shaped ramp onto boost and even have the same slight creep up to 1 bar at the top end. earlier or later response can come down to what revs the operator loads up the car. Also 2 different dynos 4 months apart doesn't really prove much at all to be honest. And 2 different types of dyno at that. And neither is showing the correction data! I don't want to sound negative, but we have nothing to make a direct comparison with, even the scales are different.

i didn't have an issue with the HC+ chewing rotors, but i did have pmu hcr pro rotors too....

sorry mate, inlet wont fit

and i agree completely! i ran project mu HC+ as daily's and they never let me down on a track either. They are ok when cold but not brilliant. Minimal rotor wear as well. I recently tried some sbs carbon metallics. they are a lower rated pad and felt a lot better on the street (great initial bite and good feel) and were pulling the car up ok on the track but they felt a bit wooden. Didn't get a chance to really hammer them before taking the kink too quick and bending the car though.

And again Bold shows changes from original ad 6x550 side feed blitz injectors in rb25 rail sold r33 rb25det Power fc inc hand controller sold r33 S1 RB25DET gearbox with custom 1 piece tail shaft suit r32, modified GTR speedo drive sold rb25 det engine loom modded to suit late r32gtst manual. Minor changes will be needed to suit stock afm (4 wires) and o2 sensor(3 wires). currently wired to suit z32AFM $250 GTR front drivers side guard with lip rolled and a small dent above the wheel arch, silver, $200 GTR front drivers side indicator $100 GTSt indicators, pair sold GTSt front guards with compliance indicators, pair $300 rb25 ignitor $125 rb20/25 CAS $100 rb25 clutch slave $50 And the after market bits Trust remote mount oil cooler sold Xtreme XHD 9 puck clutch kit This is now an xhd pressure plate (1040kg or so) with an exedy full face friction plate that is near new. $250 Cusco comp coilovers damper and height adjustable front and rear 8/6 sold Cusco master cylinder brace suit 32gtst/gtr sold Whiteline 24mm front sway bar sold rb20/26/s1rb25 splitfires sold Trust type R bov sold Just jap B pillar brace $100 Cusco castor rods bent $75 firm Maltech braided brake lines ADR compliant $250 Just Jap adjustable front upper control arms sold Stock front upper arms with nolathane adjustable bushes sold 2 Davies craig 14inch thermos sold early model hks rb25det cams 256 8.8/264 9.0 inc adjustable exhaust wheel $650. s1 rb25, no coils, no turbo no injectors. sump has a dent in it where it hit the sway bar but can provide a spare, runs well, good compression $1350 And still no one wants some perfect condition hks cams and an adjustable wheel for cheap!

I'll wait to see the pics before commenting. Most people seem to want to remove the outer ball joint (fair enough, known point of failure) and replace it with a bush (added compliance and alignment changes under load). I have my own ideas about how best to tackle it but i'll wait to see yours edit: damn! you spilled your guts while i was posting!

what the f**k are you doing buying toe arms? It's not a silvia....

i have a set in campbelltown second hand, in blue (like all splitfires) 400 pick up cheers Dave

my in and out are on the bottom. No issue. as stan said, with 4 bar plus oil pressure gravity doesn't stand a chance. But! i'd have thought more people would be concerned with maintaining oil in the lines after the car is stopped to minimise the time it takes to build oil pressure on start up.

You have to remove the housing from the car. You can replace the center yourself fairly easily but you will not be able to check that everything is right clearance wise. I did mine myself (nismo 1.5 way) including pressing on the bearings, replacing the seals, swapping the crown wheel over, kept track of everything as it was removed and reinstalled it exactly the same as it came out. Chucked it back in the car and back lash was terrible and it whined something chronic. I never had the time to get it looked at so just lived with it. recently took it to a diff specialist, it cost me 60 for him to pull it apart, check everything, put it all back together and check the backlash, adjusted the preload on the pinion shaft (what ever that means), chuck in an lsd additive and replace the oil. I haven't driven it yet, but as this guy has done diffs for a lot of people i know i am sure it will be right. And for $60 it's well worth it in that regard. If your center comes with new bearings and stuff i doubt you'd pay more than 80 for the center swap. It's probably a bit out of your way but Langs Differentials in Hornsby if anyone is in that area and needs one done.

sorry bud, stock steering wheel is pretty ordinary condition