BHDave

I'm already confirmed. I like wakefield (and icecream) I don't like pikers....I reckon peddler has to start demanding payment within 2 weeks of signing up or they're off the list. Otherwise it will just be the same shit again next time. I think 7 reserves have already been bumped up to fill spots. That shit ain't right as the booking is made based on people showing their interest and signing up in the first place.

You need to bleed it starting from the master cylinder if it ran dry at any stage during the install, then at the handbrake, and then at the 2 rear wheels and then back to the front wheels. If the master didn't run dry then bleeding at the handbrake and then the rear calipers should do it.

So it wasn't always bad? then it can't be the computer. If you have an adjustable reg then you can remove a bit of base pressure and that should lean out your mixtures by a bit. 47 base is pretty bloody high. You can just do it and you'll probably be ok, though i'd recommend getting another dyno run to check it afterwards.

It's due to the way an safc works. by bending the afm voltage the ecu sees, it figures you are at a lower load point than you really are, which mean 1) less fuel and 2) more timing. So setting up an safc is a balancing act between getting correct a/f ratios and avoiding pinging. Your base fuel pressure is a bit high. You should have ~36psi base (2.5 bar) with the vacuum signal to the reg disconnected. Plus boost, minus vacuum Your fuel economy is likely due to a dead or disconnected O2 sensor.

I previously had nolathane adjustable bushes installed and got about 3 degrees camber out of them. I now have a set of adjustable upper arms similar to the ones above. They can be made a bit shorter than the stock arms with bushes with the added advantage of increasing the castor. From what you are saying i think the adjustable bushes will be fine for you. I just can't remember the price of them...Install as a piece of cake as well.

The temp correction is good for around 10-12rwkw if you have a 20 degree difference in temp. The pod isn't far from the radiator so the IT will creep up over time if the sensor is left there for a few runs. Best to just put it in there right before commencing a run. The other thing worth noting here is your aftermarket ecu isn't doing too bad a job IMHO. Your mixtures are a bit rich but they are stable, and i suspect that the ecu is probably a little more aggressive with the timing than stock (as most of these remaps are) which means despite the rich mixtures you probably have a fairly nice responsive engine, where as a stock ecu with similar mixtures will be a bit of a slug as it will lack the timing. I really don't think you'll gain a lot with an safc, as if you start to take fuel out i suspect you will run into detonation issues pretty quickly, but, i'm making an educated guess, so don't take that as gospel.

You can mount anything with a t3 flanged turbine housing inlet, or even T4 if you get a manifold with the studs drilled to suit. With r32 mounts and crossmember you can fit up to a .7 compressor cover with 4 inch inlet with some minor mods to the engine mount and cross member to clear the comp cover. The turbo is mounted nowhere near the stock location. It's a true low mount as opposed to the factory side mount, so you need all custom hot side piping, inlet and front pipe. You need to do something with the waste gate outlet as well. Plus custom oil and water lines. Oil return is a piece of cake, if a bit tight, just a 19mm 90 degree silicone bend.

I agree with roy in this case, even though i am an rb25 convert. The power you are chasing is easily attainable with good response on an rb20 Any damaged material will be on the front of the engine, rather than in the engine. The only things that could be damaged (other then the cam and cas) are items you will replace anyway as part of the 100k service, like belt, maybe some marks on the tensioners and crank sprocket. nothing major. So, swap exhaust cam, replace cas, do the 100k service bullshit, probably a good idea to replace the exhaust cam seal just incase it was cut up (check the front main seal while you are there but i'd bet it's ok). Waterpump as you can get to it easily with the belt off. Roy, if that was a 32 vs 32 battle you might have an arguement...

I have to wonder sometimes whether the general public are so uninformed that they think it's acceptable, or whether they immediately adopt the "meh" reaction because it has no effect on them? Any potential p plater will be up in arms, obviously, as their car selection has just been reduced. I'm surprised that merc cares, are they targeting new p platers in their advertising? Personally, if i was mercedes Aus, I'd be advertising our new "High Powered turbo c class" targeted at the 20 something businessman who absolutely has to have a merc (as it's a status symbol)

yup. same size and pitch on the bolts. It's 34 calipers that need the mounting points modded (drilled out).

This will be one of the few times i'd recommend the nut and weld method over an easy out, simply because you don't have the room to get a decent size drill bit in there square to drill out the center of the stud. Once you get the stud out, grab yourself an M10 x 1.25 tap and clean up the thread, it's likely damaged from the shank on the stud bottoming out when originally installed. It's probably a good time to replace the other 3 studs while you are there.

bolt on with your existing lines. You may need to bend the brackets slightly due to the increased offset of the caliper, but otherwise it's a straight swap.

Remove the second butterfly completely and plug up the holes in the piping is the best solution. Wire the thing open is the obvious second choice. It sounds as if it is just blowing closed.

If the autobarn guys can't guarantee that the bars will have minimum 3 hole adjustment (they usually have 2 hole these days) then get 24mm front, 24mm rear. It will be the only way you can balance the car. If they are only 2 hole then you will need to set the front on hard and the rear on soft and that should be fairly balanced. If you want the thing more taily then put them both on hard. If you go bigger on the front without the 3 hole (minimum) adjustment either end then you will not be able to dial out the understeer.

can't be right all the time hey skyguy?

Yeah liz, what gives? You're 12 in the natsoft listing did you cut across the in field at some point Nice times btw guys.

Sounds good. The reason that it is still dot 3 is it likely fails on the higher dots on the wet boiling point, so make sure you change it regularly!

pretty much. usually means it needs to be changed more often as well as it soaks up moisture quicker

Hi dave, Who did your paint and panel work? I'm going to have a fair bit of work done on mine shortly and will probably need some rear guard work and a front end respray

yes it will be fine.

Ive used Universal CV's to reco my rear driveshafts and they replaced all the boots. there are a few listings around sydney in the yellow pages. linky There's also a company on ebay who do them so do a search for CV on there or alternately do a search for r32 and trawl through all the adds as they have some new gtr outers listed at the moment

talk to a cv/driveline specialist. They will be able to find one that fits. Everyone else will just be guessing.

the nose of the diff housing is about an inch longer on the abs model to fit the sensor, which means abs tailshaft is needed. the centers are the same.

yeah, that will work (assuming both diffs are either abs or non abs). Just find out what ratios are in the diff first. You really don't want to lose your 4.3s.

The half shafts are interchangable between the s13 and 32gtst so no dramas there. However (and this is a biggie) I have found that some s13's run smaller crown wheel bolts than r32's so you may get your diff apart only to find you can't bolt your crown wheel to the s13 center. It happened to me.