BHDave

Yes, that right. repco part number rrb033 for rack boots that fit straight up with no trimming if you decide to do those too.

Thats the back side of the groove i mentioned earlier. The wheel was significantly larger than stock, though i never bothered to put verniers on it. It never surged, but i only ran 14 psi though it.

just take the 21 tooth cog off the 25 sender. It's only held on with a circlip. Then remove the 17 tooth cog from the navara drive (it's glued so a bit harder) and put the 21 tooth cog onto it. Easy.

I run them, they work. Same as blitz 550 injectors if anyone is interested. You need to trim a lip off the bottom screen and swap the plugs to a standard denso type. You need collars the same as sards. Because the bottom o ring sits low on the injector you need to be very careful installing them in the rail so that you dont pinch it (use petroleum jelly). Otherwise, they are fine.

Just an interesting note. My old s2 highflow looked to have the same comp as turbo 1 and the same exhaust side as turbo 2. BUT i remember my s2 highflow had a little groove cut into the inside of the snout right where the inducer tips sit (similar to stock). it was about 10mm wide and 1mm deep from memory (anti surge mod?). I'll see if i can dig out my old for sale thread photos and confirm.

Just to add my 2c and muddy the water a bit. Yes, you can run bars made by different manufacturers, however, you may find that their range of adjustment is insufficent for you to make them work properly together. You may end up with a car that, once you reach the limit of adjustment (eg front full soft, rear full hard), is still understeering, and so you have no option than to find a bigger rear bar or smaller front bar. I found whitelines 24/22 combo on my r32 terrible as there was insufficient adjustment to get the car neutral. I had to upsize the rear to a 24mm bar to dial out the understeer completely. I disagree with scathing a little on the understeer point, i tend to think it's a bit pointless getting bars if you aren't trying to get the balance spot on, tending to a touch of understeer at the limit (atleast initially).

I actually used a s/h gtr drive as i could get one straight away. Swapped cogs with the 25 drive. The navara drive is better because it has a longer shaft better suited to the long 21 tooth gear. It's only a matter of swapping cogs, not a big issue (unless you didn't get a stock speed sender with the 25 box) Booster, your calc is backwards. 20-21 tooth would mean a reduction in output shaft speed (everything else being equal) and result in a reduction in the displayed speed, not an increase. You are assuming that the drive gear in the box's are the same also.

In my r32 with 4.3's my speedo reads about 10% high with the navara drive/r33 cog, checked with gps. So 110km/h on speedo = 100km/h actual speed

It just looks like a navara drive with an r33 cog on it. Nothing special. It will still be inaccurate if you don't have the same diff gears as an r33 (4.11s). Some one has mentioned ripping the back off the r33 drive and fitting the back off the stock 32gtst drive. If it works it saves having to source any new parts (assuming you have the 33 drive). AFAIK the r31 drive is mechanically the same as 32.

I don't know why, but i was sure someone would chime in and point out that r33's don't have drum brakes Hand brake entries are sooooo 2005. feint ftw.

the drop in's are only 8.8mm lift afaik. the 264 drop in is the 9mm lift one. Either way. yes you can definately run a 9mm lift cam with stock valve springs. I have a 264/9mm exhaust cam in my rb25 atm and have had no issues in the last year, including a couple of track days, skid pan days and plenty of dyno time.

I've never seen one. Half of the dash plug wires can be traced directly back to the ecu so the 32 pinout diagram works for those. The rest need to be traced back into the engine loom, which is easy enough to do with a continuity tester and a second pair of hands. Find which plug it runs to, figure out what the plugs into and you know what it is. There are a few wires running direct into the engine loom off the top of my head (later model r32) 2 wires for the water temp sensor for the climate control, 2 wires for the fuel pump speed dropping resistor, 1 wire for the water temp gauge, 1 wire for the ac on trigger, 1 wire tied into the wipers (you need to strip the wiper loom out of the r32 engine loom and keep it). I'm sure i've forgotten a few but that gives you 7 of the roughly 20 wires on the dash plugs, and about 10 go to the ecu. I had to add the fuel pump dropping resistor plug and the climate control temp sensor plug into the rb25 loom when i did that swap. Hope that helps a bit.

So it does it when you are rolling but not in gear? That pretty much rules out the clutch as an issue. What sort of speed are we talking? And can you confirm that it's speed and not rev related (get it up to the same speed but in a different gear and replicate) If you are rolling out of gear, foot off the clutch and raise the revs does it go away or is it still there, same question with the clutch pushed in out of gear and in gear? At this stage i think you may have an issue with the uv joint at the front of the tail shaft, or possibly the center bearing. It's a while ago now but a mate had a similar problem on his old bluebird which ended up being the center mount.

You should probably check the shoes on your drum brakes. If it sounds like metal on metal, then it probably is.

lol, insult my driving now. That's an educated response from someone i've never met. Enjoy your day.

I was going to suggest that. The manifolds aren't produced any more afaik and i only ever saw them to suit ex gate setups. Putting a gasket and a plate over the ex gate outlet will work fine. I have done that before when running a highflow on a high mount stainless manifold. That said, i can't confirm whether the IW housing will fit in the space available

Find someone who can recondition them BEFORE buying and get a worst case price for reco. If they cost more then 400 to buy then don't bother. If the shocks are buggered, then there's a fair chance the pillow balls are worn and knocking too.

If you have a stock ecu i'd be surprised if you could hit 180 on any of the NSW tracks anyway. Maybe EC if you get a tailwind and don't lift for turn one

Lock the original rack up and be done with it. $2 worth of scrap 3mm plate steel, a half in drill bit (from memory) and a 1 inch hole saw to make up some washers to slip in on the end of the rack between the tie rod and the stop. With the boots on no one will know it's locked. You can even leave the rest of the hicas connected if you feel that way inclined, but you may as well strip it to save the weight. The tie rods on hicas equiped cars offer more toe adjustment too. If you lower an s13 you will almost certainly need to find some aftermarket toe arms (which will also apply to a skyline non hicas subframe) and so you are back to square one with your engineer. The just jap converter hubs are s13 specific (the other models listed have identical hubs), the front's will be useless on an r32 as they are a completely different design to the s13, rears are compatible.

I second morton and may. They do fantastic work. If it's buckled then almost every one you talk to will be unable to help as they can only fix localized damage (pot hole hits and the like).

Unless the lock bar you have installed is made of tin foil, you really have nothing to worry about. It's not going to break, it's not going to be the cause of an accident. It's a certainty that the lock bar hasn't been tested to conform to ADR's, so unless it's engineered it's not legal. But seriously, who's going to spot it? If you are really that concerned then reinstall the stock rack and make up a couple of 5mm washers to fit on the end to lock it up that way. You end up with a 3kg or so weight penalty, looks stock once the boots are reinstalled, no hicas.

pics of the turbo? 4 bolt on the outlet says non wastegated housing to me which is a problem straight away. I had an old 500hp highflow. It was definitely bolt on (and a day job even including fabrication of the compressor outlet pipe) I'd be reinstalling the stock turbo until you sort it out.

lol you think people are waiting online at 1:30am just to answer your post? I have 2 suggestions. Someone lost the dipstick and covered the hole to prevent oil spraying through the engine bay or the rings were shot and it kept blowing the dipstick out (and spraying oil everywhere) so they blocked it up.

Undo the lock nut (it's the bit that the bottom of the red oval goes through). rotate the tie rod (see the flats on it about 30mm up from the lock nut?) until it unscrews from the tie rod end. Slide the boot off. done. If you're removing the tie rod you need to remove the locking tab at the rack end before trying to unscrew it so that you can re use it rather than fu(k it. If you want to remove the tie rod end from the steering arm, put the jack under the hub to take up any slack in the suspension then just get a reasonable size hammer and give the steering arm a couple of sharp hits on the side. tie rod end should fall out without damage to the thread.

Richard, You have the dogbone style adjustable upper arms in your gtr right? Did you find you could get significantly more camber out of them than an adjustable bush setup? Can you fit them backwards and gain castor? oh yeah, the rear wheels are now sitting 15mm further out to fill the guard again. Who'd have thunk you could get a 17x9.5 with effective offset of 31 under the back of a 32gtst with just lipping. 10's are a possibility with the right offset