BHDave

Update! RCA's do funny things to your alignment. The rears arrived, and sat in the box for a month while my car was repaired from a track outing. I installed them front and rear last weekend, as luckily i had the right size bits of pipe available out of my dad's stash of these sort of random handy things, a decent size bench vice and a big fu(k off hammer to get the old ball joint's out of the arms. Anyway, onto the alignment. With no other changes other than the ball joints my front camber went from ~3.0 down to ~1.4 at max adjustment of my nolathane upper arms, and my toe went from -1mm to +40mm (no, i didn't accidentally miss a decimal point), and castor dropped from 8.5 to 8. Rear camber went from -1 to just on the positive side of 0 and toe went in enough so that i had to wind it out in the driveway to stop the wheel fouling on the lower control arm (it was always close to begin with). I wound camber back in to -1.5 on the rear and had to go for 0 toe (which still scrubs the LCA a touch but a spacer will fix that). So now, i need to find some front upper arms with more adjustment to get my camber back to where i want it and try and find my spare set of 20mm bolt on spacers in my storage garage full of all my stuff (i don't like my chances so i'll probably have to buy some new ones for now) So right now the alignment is a bit of a compromise, but i will see how it goes next weekend when i get it to wakefield. I have no idea what it will have done to the balance of the car either, but will find out soon enough.

That was me, but in all honesty you could mount it to the vertical bit of chassis between the floor and the base of the back seat

It gives me agood excuse to not put passengers in the back

For 280 id leave the 25 alone and throw bolt on's at it, and maybe cams if you felt that way inclined.

If you had a leak down test done pre purchase and it was good then you may want to read up on what it is you tested before jumping the gun based on a compression test result. You will not make 200rwkw on 12psi if one cylinder is bleeding off pressure. I suggest 3 possibilities, 1) it's a dud compression test, 2) Your initial leak down test was dodgy, 3) you've broken the car between your initial leak down test and the later compression test. If you take the car back to E&M to be checked and it shows all good, you will be charged for it. If it shows up bad, then make sure you are familiar with your warranty conditions because you had it independently tested, and it was good when it left the lot. You've played with it in the mean time. I think you will lose if it goes before a judge. Not trying to be harsh, but seriously, find out what you tested pre purchase before going any further.

Yeah, you can change the top. Do whatever is easiest for you. Both ways will require disassembly, so if you can get a top cheaply then go for it

I have them on my 32 gtst. Don't know if the gtr's are different.

I reckon you will be getting kicked off a few tracks

So the hello kitty silvia pwned all? As well as deafening a few? Did you put the megaphones on yet dumhed?

not quite, the stud will have a splined section on it which has to match the new stud or it wont fit. Or you can be dodgy and use a nut and bolt (but i really don't recommend that)

It can certainly be done. In all honesty i think getting the motor and cross member sorted will be the easy bit. Have you though about the differences in the front suspension between the r31 and r32? I can't remember the site addy but see if you can find the site for "full race". They have developed an R14 (awd s14 with rb26). There will be a lot in common with what you are proposing, particularly front end set up.

it'll just be a pressed in stud, so it can be replaced. good luck finding one to fit though, i have no idea where you'd start.

Nolathane do it that way with their adjustable front bushes so there's no reason why it wont work (in theory). In practice you obviously need to check everything will fit together and still fit on the car. Or just get a nolathane adjustable arm kit and use the inners off that.

You're talking about the traction rod, not toe arm. Toe arms are used on non hicas equiped cars. It's worth while checking the size of your lower control arm bushes too as there are 2 different sizes about and they are not interchangable as the mounts on the subframe are different.

No you wont. Though it will be tight and you may need to angle the cart slightly to give yourself space to get the fitting on. Mine is angled about 5 degrees anti clockwise looking from the front so the oil fitting clears the number 1 runner on the hks manifold. But mine has a bolt on adapter to suit the old t3 2 bolt inlet with a 90 degree bend attached to that, and then a male male adapter and then a flexible line so it takes a bit of room I don't have water lines so cant help you there, though i figured if i went a water cooled turbo i would just get some earls lines with a 90 on the turbo end and a male male adapter (compression fitting, same as my oil line) screwed into the turbo.

Changing the piping route will save about 60cm of piping, I've had a set up similar to yours and the more common across the top of the radiator way and to be honest there's not a lot of difference between them. In your case, the tightness of the 180 bend may be an issue but how much effect it has is anyones guess Stick with 2.5 unless you have a front facing plenum and a 3 inch throttle body, then change it to 3 inch on the cool side so the diameter isn't decreasing then increasing for no good reason.

If it was a local 31 i'd say ditch it and get a 33, but you dont, so i won't. Tough it out and find a decent rb25. I think you may be a bit harsh on your comp testing as an engine thats been sitting for a while isn't going to generate any decent numbers, particularly cold and consistency will be out the window. All i checked was that there was no moisture under the cam covers, the oil in the sump was in reasonable condition (no silvery bits) and there were no aftermarket bits in the engine bay (or evidence that there ever were) and the thing turned over by hand and had a bit of compression based on feel. But thats just me.

I'm more cencerned about the knock readings. As it's happening fairly regularly it's worth having it checked.

except s14/15

Just when i was considering having a look for that thread, rekin gives me a link. thanks mate. The universals were the next option, except my mate bought them all from my local repco on friday the bastard.

Was it a fresh rebuild when it went on your car? What oil was the previous owner running through it and was he shutting it down hot? Sounds a lot like coking to me.

soz Abo Bob. And it was a 34gtt as well, not 32 as written in my earlier post

You wont have a problem on the rear, they can come out another 5mm atleast before you run into trouble (if you stick with 235's). The front's are probably touch and go if you do any sort of hard driving. It will sit fine when lowered and for general driving, but you may scrub on the loaded side when cornering hard. Just as an example, my old street rims were 17x8 +30 front with 215/45 tyres and they scrubbed slightly when driven hard. I recon they sat a good 10mm further in board than yours. If your offsets are listed correctly above and you have a 15mm bolt on spacer you have an effective offset of +16.

I remember abobob had the same issue with his 32 manual conversion. Something about an earth switch or something. It may be worth sending him a pm

R32 is not an R33. The air intake comes in under the headlight making it a lot easier. In a nut shell, the cold pipe wont be the issue in an r32, The hot pipe should clear the airbox in the same way the stock piping does. If it doesn't you may need to modify that section of piping, or use the stock piping for that bit.