BHDave

You missed this bit cubes; There are 2 issues, the throttle back off reversion isn't the important one as (unless it's causing the car to stall) it really has no effect on drivability, which is why i've generally addressed my responses to the on throttle surge issue as quoted.

s13 k's diff will be pretty much the same internally, diff ratios will be different. possible 6 bolt output shafts as mentioned and different rear housing if the s13 doesn't have hicas.

If i were you i'd be hoping no one took that bet...

Tried it, couldn't find the info on how it's wired, wasn't lucky enough to guess it. r33 speedo has 4 contacts on the back, one positive, one neg, and what i think is a signal in and a signal out. The speed sensor is a hall effect from memory which means both wires will give a signal, provided the other one is earthed. So through educated guess you can figure what has to go to the dash. Without tracing wires through an r33 you don't know what has to happen in between, which was the point i decided it was all too hard. The dash requires butchering to fit the 33 speedo mechanism. it's a harder job than chopping off a cog and sticking a the 25 one on there

How far do you want to go and do you want to stick with poly bushes or rose jointed arms? For poly bushes most of the regular auto parts stores have association with 1 or 2 manufacturers. Repco can get you nolathane, auto one can get noltec, supercheap can get superpro, autobarn can get whiteline (superpro in a different coulour and duro). Thats just off the top of my head as i spend so much time in these places For rose jointed arms, you generally want to stick with quality gear. For jap stuff Cusco and kazama will do the job. I rate cusco very highly after having travelled 80k + with a second hand set of cusco castor rods and they are still good. Locally, tuneagent has some nice gear if you stick with the top of the range stuff, as does drift motorsport (forum sponsor). I have to get a few more km's on my rear upper arms before the drift motorsport gear gets 2 thumbs up, but it looks the business and replacement ball joints are available.

When the guys have a go at fixing it is the injector duty gradually increasing? Is the afm voltage at certain rev points in the same situation staying consistant or is it dropping over time? I think it may be a fuel issue as well, as you have said it keeps leaning out over time. Try a new fuel filter as tacker has suggested. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and take it for a spin, see what it does. AFM is still a possibility. If it's reading low it suggests the element is dirty. Have you cleaned it? What sort of filter are you running? Has it been over oiled?

It's quite likely. It also assumes you have an r33 spec rear housing (likely). I think it may be worth while talking to GCG about it as they have the experience. But more than likely they will come up with a similar solution, namely, reduce the turbos ability to push air at moderate load with low throttle openings. They are also likely to be able to tell you whether that will have an effect somewhere else (other than the obvious raised boost threshold)

That would be my advice as well. Then fit the castor rod to the LCA, then pull the hub forward and drop it onto the ball joint. Check for other bent stuff too. The sway bar link is sitting at a funny angle, but that may be due to the lack of a castor rod to pull everything forward

Off topic> I never had an issue with my old gcg high flow surging, and i had the stage 2 one which was supposed to be bad. Admittedly it was only on the rb25 for 6 months or so before it cracked the exhaust manifold (modified trust high mount) and the HKS kit went on. Back when the high flow was on the rb20 and i had to flog it to keep it on boost, i found that by blocking the hole on the stock bov it caused the car to surge on partial lift off, which is basically mimicing the behavior of a tight aftermarket bov or no bov. It was still fine on acceleration On topic> I know my current surge issue is almost entirely due to the .63 exhaust housing on the t300s combined with the t04s wheel which pumps more air at low shaft speed than an equivalent GT spec wheel. I'm not interested in changing anything on my car to work around it as it only happens at partial throttle highish revs as mentioned earlier (basically what i would describe as the no mans land between having a go and cruising). Simple work around is either get off the gas and get back on it, or give it more gas, as it's due to the compressor trying to push more air past the butterfly than it can flow. In your case the stock bov is more than likely masking it somewhat as it has the bypass. If you blocked it off completely it would be worse. The r34 rear housing mentioned by manwhore will fix the issue (well i'm 99% certain) whether it then moves the point of surge further up the rev range with a different amount of throttle is anyones guess, particularly with a high flow. Too many dots cubes.....

Yes, It sounds like you are experiencing fairly mild compressor surge (it must be mild if you can't feel it, only see it on the map trace). I haven't watched it in that situation, but i have logged my afm voltage before (when i had no bov) and watched the numbers bounce around all over the place when i lifted the throttle. In my case, basically, big spike, down to nothing, not so big spike, down to nothing.....you get the idea. I can get mine to chuff away quite happily in similar situations (partial throttle, up hill), though generally 3rd gear, 5000rpm or so.

no

A mate removed an rb25de from a 93 cef last week and it had blanking plugs where all the oil and water lines fit up. If thats not a turbo block, i don't know what is. Different pistons obviously, to raise compression. Without removing the sump i'd say there's a fair chance it has provision for oil squirters as well, though most likely they were blanked off.

If you want to do it on the cheap, it's worth considering getting an internally gated turbo and bolting it to your stock manifold. Dangerman04 i think has well into the 300's with a proper Garrett IW housing on a 3540 from memory. A search of the Forced Induction section should find his thread. Spend the money on the turbo, forget about the rest if you want to save money, as you will generally have to re do stuff if you go the cheap option.

Im running r34 GTt 310 rotors and calipers. Yes, the alloy hat ones. Mine came from mu secret in kensington though they moved recently to somewhere on parramatta road.

At a guess i figure your talking about the caster rod bushes? Castor rod ones can be had from whiteline, nolathane, superpro and noltec Check their websites as most have a catalogue posted online.

Because thats the way nissan do it, and it's the easier method. The navara drive uses an interference fit with glue, as does the rb26 drive. The 25 is a bit of an oddball with the flat and circlip on the end (though it does work out well for people who want to swap gears as it comes off easily). Interesting info from 2630gts too. nice work mate.

Stick with your usual fuel and octane booster. You won't gain 7 points on anything but base unleaded, maybe 2-3 tops on 98 octane. I recently ran some nulon pro strength through mine on the dyno and it had no effect on the mixtures and increased the detonation threshold significantly (enough that i could add 5 degrees of timing before any audible pinging). Adding toluene effects your mixtures as you have to add so much of the shit to get a significant increase in the RON of your fuel. Were talking 5-6 litres per tank of fuel (thats near enough to 10% by volume) to get a couple of point increase.

If he doesn't hook it up there he will introduce a significant vacuum leak as the pcv valve is still hooked up. It has to connect somewhere in the intake pipe between the afm and the turbo inlet. It's done right.

I have the scr pros on my 32gtst. Great bit of kit. Worked well at Wakefield the other day as well. I also run Pmu 0-800 pads (HC+?) Admittedly, i think the rotors are overkill for my application but i just couldn't pass them up. scr's would work just as well.

Don't run it direct to the ecu, run it to the 2 relays in the kick panel or your ecu will never turn off.

sigh... Do yourself a favour and have a look in the rb20 sticky thread at the top of the forced induction forum and see what turbos work on an rb20 for what you want to do. then do a search for t04e and see what people think of them. Then decide if you still want to install it.

r33 or 34 pump and bracket should just bolt up in place of the 32 unit. belt will be 3 ridge rather than 4. The lines will be the tricky part, i can't confirm that the the 32 lines will bolt up to the 33 or 34 pump. You will probably need to do some custom for the pump outlet and block up one of the return lines on the reservoir (or get a smaller r33/s13 spec one.

the gtr cog is cut the wrong way and it is 10mm or so too short to engage properly. if you could find another cog thats cut the right way and not too small in diameter it could be done.

Where did you get your price from? I'd love to get a gtr rear end for under $300 (as thats what my recoed r32 shafts cost). Universal CV's did mine. Search the yellow pages with CV as the business name. there will be someone close to you worth talking to. There's also a mob based out at campsie who advertise on ebay (just search CV) who quoted me less but it was just a pain to get there when the other guys were local.

s13 is smaller diameter (same as an rb20 one funnily enough) and has a long bit of loom attached to it. Pretty obvious difference.